
For I am all the subjects that you have, Which first was mine own king:
and here you sty me In this hard rock, whiles you do keep from me The rest o' the island.
Caliban, The Tempest.
The rock here is a soft aeolian limestone. The oldest and most solid rock is called "Walsingham stone" and this is mainly found near Harrington Sound. Most of the climbing is on seacliffs (you are never far from the sea in Bermuda) and consists of beach bouldering, deep water soloing or sports climbing. Lengths of the deep water soloing routes usually refer to the max height above the water rather than the total length of climbing involved which is usually a lot longer e.g. Romantic Pottery has 35m of climbing but tops out 10m above sea level. This is not unusual for deep water soloing. All directions (left/right) are given for looking IN to the cliff from the sea. Some of the routes have had few repeats and a lot of the grades are unconfirmed. For an overview of the 300 plus routes in Bermuda see the graded list. For grade translations consult the grade comparison table. The climbing is good and one of the major advantages of Bermuda is accessibility. With only 21 square miles of land you never have to travel far and you can easily be diving in the morning, wakeboarding in the afternoon, climbing in the evening and then get a surf in before sunset. It is possible to climb all year round with summer best for deep water soloing and winter best for sports climbing.BOULDERINGJohn Smith's BayMid-Ocean Club St George'sAstwood CoveAdmiralty ParkDEEP WATER SOLOINGClarence CoveHogfish BayWhite Grunt HoleDeep BayDill's RocksLadies ChambersHarrington SoundThe Great SoundTom Moore's JungleTuckers TownTsunami WallSpanish PointSPORTS CLIMBINGThe Great Head NorthThe Great Head South Tsunami WallAbbot's CliffWARNING AND DISCLAIMER; This is not a climbing gym, climb at your own risk. Rock Climbing is inherently dangerous. Even when doing nothing wrong climbers are sometimes injured or killed. Climb at your own risk. Some or all of the information in this wiki may be inaccurate. The contributors to this wiki accept no liability for anything. Please read the information about Deep Water Soloing and the fixed protection below. No right of way is implied by the route descriptions.
It is a criminal offence under the Protection of Birds Act 1975 and The Protected Species Amendment Act 2012 punishable by a maximum of two years in prison or a fine of up to $25,000 to interfere, disturb, damage or destroy Cahows and Longtails which nest on and in cliffs in Bermuda. Bermuda Sun articleThe fixed protection. The sports climbs in Bermuda have been equipped with bolts and in-situ threads. In general the protection points are placed in the spots where the rock is the most reliable. However the nature of the limestone here is soft and some of the placements are unavoidably in soft rock and so the protection will not be as strong as it would be when placed in harder rock. The reliability of the anchors is therefore not guaranteed. In addition all in-situ protection is liable to deteriorate over time. Steel bolts are prone to stainless steel corrosion. The threads are prone to UV radiation and wear and tear. It is important to visually inspect the condition of the anchors when climbing. Most of the expansion bolts have been replaced with marine grade stainless steel or titanium glue-in bolts although there are still some in-situ and these should be viewed with suspicion. It has become apparent that the shorter glue-ins (fixe and titanium) are not strong enough for the softer rock and some have started moving or come out and either have been or will be replaced with the longer and stronger Jim T!tt bolts. See the
bolt fund page for identification of the different bolts. Threads will need to be replaced every so often. Unless otherwise indicated, assume the threads date from the first ascent of the route. When routes are re-equipped it will be recorded in the wiki. Likewise please note any observations of dubious in-situ protection.
Deep water soloing.
Refers to a specific climbing style which involves free climbing above water with only rockshoes and chalkbag. It is solo climbing relying on the water for protection from injury and to enjoy the freedom and movement of solo climbing in safety.There are many seacliffs in Bermuda where the rock is good but the water underneath is too shallow for deep water soloing. Shallow water soloing is not much different from soloing above the ground i.e. if you fall off then you are seriously injured or die. Deep Water Soloing requires at least 3m and preferably more of water underneath the landing zone. in order to avoid injury. There is approx 1m of water difference between high tide and low tide in the Sargasso sea, more at spring tides which occur at full and new moons and less at neap tides. Deep Water Soloing is safer at high tide for obvious reasons and some of the routes are not advisable below mid-tide. It is imperative to inspect the depth before getting on a project as the water is often a lot shallower than it appears. A mask and snorkel are therefore useful accessories to as many rockboots and chalkbags as you can get your hands on. The good news about that is the snorkelling is fabulous in Bermuda and there is loads to see. Although what you don’t want to see are Portugese Men O’ War or Cauliflower jellyfish, make sure there aren’t any under your chosen line, especially if the wind is onshore because the wind tends to bring them in. Even then bear in mind that even under perfect conditions and circumstances Deep Water Soloing is a stupid and perilous sport. Potential injuries include broken backs, ruptured lungs, perforated eardrums and involuntary salt water enemas. Please don’t do it, you will probably get injured or die. Tide Times