Thread started: Nov 10 2009, 7:34 AM EST
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I've been doing some research into bolts for new routes and re-equipping old routes. The Tortuga bolt is cool and all but I've wanted a longer bolt for this soft rock. I found some twisted glue ins from Jim **** [url]http://www.bolt-products.com/SeaWaterSeries_000.htm[url/]
304 steel is stainless, 316 is Marine Grade, the stuff on his website is 1.4462, the ultimate. Rated to 102KN, built to any length we want for soft pocketed rock, and guaranteed not to corrode in 100years in tropical saltwater environments. It's a touch cheaper than Tortuga too. The downfall is that you need a pricey 16mm drill bit and you have to use a glue gun, the glass epoxy tubes don't work.
I'm looking to place a fairly substantial order of these, we should pool our money and get enough to serve everyone who climbs here. I'm in for $300 worth.
Also, to anyone interested, I'd like to clean off the bad bolts left on the walls. There are spots with 3 bolts in the same spot, with only one being good. For wedge bolts you overtorque the nut with a breaker bar until it shears. After that you countersink whats left and cover in silicon and sand. If the bolt starts spinning instead of breaking, you can usually get it out with a crowbar.
I'll paste this same message on the FB group too.
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RE: Bolts
By: ,
Nov 11 2009, 9:27 AM EST
Hi John, those bolts look really good for Bermuda rock. I have just ordered 60 more of the fixe marine grade glue-ins so Im gonna stick with them for the time being, they seem to be good enough and I prefer them to the tortugas because they are cheaper and some of the tortugas bent when I was hammerimg them which has not instilled confidence! The 16mm drill bit you can easily get in Bermuda albeit the imperial equivalent but the glue you will have to ship in.
Its great to have someone else apart from me and Davie who is keen to equip new routes :-)
Regarding the currently in place expansion bolts. This winter I will be re-equipping all expansion bolts on my routes with glue-ins and the expansion bolts will be removed. You can't remove the expansion bolts at the time as you place the glue-ins because you need the expansion bolts to hang on in order to place the glue-ins. You then have to come back later once the glue has set to remove the expansion bolt.
There is only one route where there are three bolts in the same place which is the first bolt of Kanagawa. The reason being the first bolt went into a pocket on the first try and is a dud. This bolt and the expansion bolt next to it will be removed leaving the glue-in.
Most of the expansion bolts have been placed in a longer than necessary hole so that all you have to do is remove the hanger and then tap the bolt into the hole with a hammer.
Please don't remove any expansion bolts from a route until the route has been re-equipped with glue-ins because I need the old bolts in-situ to use in order to place the new ones. Please go ahead and remove any old bolts on routes that have been re-equipped if you happen to be on the route and can be arsed. To date the only routes that have been re-equipped completely are Kanagawa and Crackhouse. Under the Volcano is probably next on the list.
Cheers, Grant
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