This bouldering area is on the West end of Marley Beach and provides excellent climbing in a stunning, secluded setting.
The best approach is from the carpark in Astwood Park-
Walk seaward along the approach path and scramble down an easy groove on your left.
The Storm Surge boulder is about 50m East along the beach.
The Prow is a few metres East of the Storm Surge boulder.
The Slice and Dice boulder is another 30m East past The Prow.



Storm Surge boulder
This impressive boulder provides some excellent bouldering at amenable grades.

The boulder is best at low to mid tide. At high tide bouldering becomes shallow water solo'ing.
The rock is surprisingly reliable and the boulder offers some climbing on everything from small pockets to gigantic jugs of joy. The sharp top outs can be a wee bit character building.

High sand levels (similar conditions to the photo in the topo below) make the boulder about 4m high.
There may still be some rocks exposed in the vicinity of the landing zone and spotters are recommended.

Very low sand levels make the boulder 6m high and the climbing becomes fairly highball. The sand is very shallow and rocks in the landing zone become more exposed and, hence, dangerous (this should be obvious).

Please be careful to assess the conditions and be prepared to adjust your plans.
Climb at your own risk. The contributors to this wiki accept no responsibility for anything.



1/ Atlantic Arete (V2) (Davie Crawford 19/7/8)- brilliant climbing directly up the juggy left arete of the boulder to a sharp top out. Much easier than it looks!
Video here.

2/ Storm Surge (V2) (Davie Crawford 12/7/8)- the longest problem on the boulder, following the juggy left to right hand rail, crossing Breakdance, Flangio, Tiny Bubbles and topping out on the least move of Bertha. Named for the storm surge waves (courtesy of Hurricane Bertha) that washed the bouder on the day of the FA of this problem.

3/ Breakdance (V2) (Davie Crawford 8/7/8)- gain a juggy, horizontal break in the distinctive triangular niche then go for gold straight above.

4/ Flangio (V3) (Davie Crawford 21/10/8)- this tricky, direct route takes the centre of the White Wall. Power through shallow, fingery pockets past the flange feature to a juggy chequered flag.

5/ Razor's Route (V3) (Davie Crawford 18/3/9)- just right of Flangio, start on two small crimps/ sidepulls and make a dynamic reach for a two finger pocket. Ascend the juggy rails above to the top. A slightly easier sister problem to Flangio.

6/ Tiny Bubbles (V1) (Davie Crawford 8/7/8)- just left of Bertha, climb the smooth wall through a shield of pocketed rock.

7/ Bertha (V1) (Davie Crawford- 8/7/8)- at the right side of the White Wall, climb the faint crack line, topping out via a tiny left facing corner. It is better if you climb on the left hand side of the crack as the rock is of higher quality.

The low traverse of the Storm Surge boulder goes at V0.


The Prow (V1) (Davie Crawford- 23/7/8)- from a sit start down in the niche on the left climb the strenuous prow feature to a razor top out! Much better at low sand level.

The Slice and Dice Boulder



This steeply overhanging, non- tidal boulder lies about 30m East of the White Wall. It provides some good climbs. The landing is fairly good onto sand, but spotters are a good idea in case of unplanned ejections- there are a few dastardly rocks to avoid.
The problems are described from left to right.
Video- 'Dopage 1' by Caroline Stockdale.

I am the Walrus (V2) (Davie Crawford 21/02/09)- This short, but frustrating problem lies just to the left of the main overhang on surprisingly good white rock. Sit start just left of the corner where The Slant starts. Without using handholds on the right wall make a strenous pull to a sloping shelf. Latching the flat top out from here may lead to the horrendous mantelshelf finish. All you need is love, and a Walrus- style mantelshelf technique. Become the Walrus!

The Slant (V1) (Davie Crawford 21/02/09)- a good natural line on the left hand side of the main overhanging face.
A hand rail of holds leads out right from the corner. Make steep moves along them to a thank god jug, before a flat top out.


Charlotte Best tackles The Slant (spotted attentively by Caroline Stockdale & Josh Hill). Photo Davie Crawford.

Slice and Dice (V3) (Joshua Hill 21/02/09)- This short problem lies just to the right of the slant in the middle of the overhung portion of the wall. Sit start on two small holds proceeds into to large moves past the over hang to a juggy edge. Move up and over the overhang onto small sharp character building holds and top out.


Josh Hill on Slice and Dice (spotted by Caroline Stockdale). Note the cutting edge bouldering mat! Photo Davie Crawford.

Nail in the Coffin (V2) (Joshua Hill 21/02/09)- This route begins to the right of the overhang along a small pillar. Begin the sit start on the small rock and proceed up the small pillar to good holds. Move hands up and right onto ledges and work your way up each ledge. Beware of top out as you're under a higher overhanging ledge when you get up.


Josh Hill topping out on Nail in the Coffin. Photo Davie Crawford.

High and Dry (V2) (Joshua Hill 21/02/09)- This is a long traverse beginning just to the right of Nail in the Coffin. Begin on right most corner as a sit start and proceed up and left past the start of Nail in the Coffin (beware the rock below). As you ascend and your hands hit the first ledges continue traversing left past Slice and Dice. Finish on good holds on the same ledges as The Slant.