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Clarence Cove
This and the neighbouring Hogfish Bay are the most exciting deep water solo venues in Bermuda. If you are standing where this photo was taken, the climbs in Clarence Cove are behind your left shoulder. Google Map.
West of the dock in Clarence Cove are some man made caves which end on Hogfish point from where many a fine night dive has been started. West again is Hogfish Bay which has an arch at its western tip.
The climbs lie below the stone pinnacle, in the bay formed between the dock and the point. Here you will find a massive roof system bounded by the twin ribs of Lara Croft and Romantic Pottery. The routes are safe at any state of the tide with the odd exception that is mentioned in the description. Unless otherwise indicated, first ascents and photos by Grant Farquhar. Topo at the foot of the page.
The crux of Ambergris
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AMBERGRIS 5.10d 50m sea-level traverse 15th October 2006
A very good DWS traverse which was originally climbed right to left but is now more usually done left to right. It is equally good in either direction. Start from ledges east of the little stone pinnacle atop the cliff in Clarence Cove. Scramble down to sea-level. Start traversing westward (right) to a cave and continue below the overhanging arete of Lara Croft (crux) to gain ledges below massive overhangs. Climb westwards around the overhanging arete of Romantic Pottery and continue to gain a no hands rest on a ledge. The next section leads into the mouth of the cave system and is fairly cramped territory. The cave system leads to steps. Safe at all tide states except spring low tide.
Variation Finish#1: Continue traversing beyond the caves to the point. March 2003 (this was the original start to Romantic Pottery).
Variation Finish#2: THE BAR PET FINISH 5.11c 6th June 2009
Finding Ambergris a bit too easy? When you get to the no-hands resting ledge at the mouth of the caves, start up Barotrauma, step right into Petra and reverse this to the ledge on the other side of the caves. Step around the arete to the porthole and finish up Captain Caveman.
Fabian Gysi on the traverse of Ambergris
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LARA CROFT 5.11a 10m 18th October 2006
A perfect DWS route. Good rock above deep water with the crux at the very top. Named because it is feisty and gymnastic with big jugs. This brilliant line takes the left hand twin pillar in the bay. Follow Ambergris to a cave and ledge just before the pillar. Fight onto the front of the pillar before licking the final groove into submission. Safe.
Nick Strong attempts to seduce Lara Croft
Nick Strong grappling with Lara Croft's jugs before being rejected 
Bryan Caldwell tries his luck with Lara
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SONG TO THE SIREN 5.11c 10m 27th July 2008
GANDHI ON CRACK 5.10d 8m 10th September 2008 
Davie Crawford attempting Captain Caveman in Clarence Cove.
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CAPTAIN CAVEMAN 5.11a 5m
Right of Petra is a large horizontal roof. Below the roof is a port hole which accesses the main cave.
Start in the west side of the port hole. Climb the very steep, undercut rib to an obvious impasse at the horizontal roof. Using caveman powers, thug your way over the roof and finish to the cheers of the Teen Angels (Brenda, Dee Dee & Taffy). Davie Crawford 19th September 2008. 2nd and 3rd and 4th ascents by Grant Farquhar, Davie Crawford and Fabian Gysi 20th September 2008
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Davie Crawford gets clubbed by Captain Caveman.
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UNGA BUNGA 5.9 4m 12th August 2009
This short but sharp route climbs the steep wall and groove between the roof of Captain Caveman and the point. Gain a no hands resting ledge either by stepping east under the rib of Captain Caveman or by traversing west from the point. From the ledge climb steeply up and leftwards to jugs in the groove right of the roof system. Top out directly above.
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A very good DWS traverse which was originally climbed right to left but is now more usually done left to right. It is equally good in either direction. Start from ledges east of the little stone pinnacle atop the cliff in Clarence Cove. Scramble down to sea-level. Start traversing westward (right) to a cave and continue below the overhanging arete of Lara Croft (crux) to gain ledges below massive overhangs. Climb westwards around the overhanging arete of Romantic Pottery and continue to gain a no hands rest on a ledge. The next section leads into the mouth of the cave system and is fairly cramped territory. The cave system leads to steps. Safe at all tide states except spring low tide.
Variation Finish#1: Continue traversing beyond the caves to the point. March 2003 (this was the original start to Romantic Pottery).
Variation Finish#2: THE BAR PET FINISH 5.11c 6th June 2009
Finding Ambergris a bit too easy? When you get to the no-hands resting ledge at the mouth of the caves, start up Barotrauma, step right into Petra and reverse this to the ledge on the other side of the caves. Step around the arete to the porthole and finish up Captain Caveman.
Fabian Gysi on the traverse of Ambergris
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LARA CROFT 5.11a 10m 18th October 2006
A perfect DWS route. Good rock above deep water with the crux at the very top. Named because it is feisty and gymnastic with big jugs. This brilliant line takes the left hand twin pillar in the bay. Follow Ambergris to a cave and ledge just before the pillar. Fight onto the front of the pillar before licking the final groove into submission. Safe.
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Fabian Gysi preparing to enter the groove of Lara Croft.
Fabian Gysi preparing to enter the groove of Lara Croft.
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SINISTER SISTER 5.11b 10m 30th April 2009
The left hand finish to Lara Croft forms her evil twin. High tide is required due to the reef shelf underneath the finale. Start as for Lara Croft and follow her to the handrail below the crux groove. Hand traverse to the left hand side of the rail and climb the flying arete to a crumbly finish left of the stone pinnacle. It is highly recommended to snorkel first and inspect the landing zone.
SINISTER SISTER 5.11b 10m 30th April 2009
The left hand finish to Lara Croft forms her evil twin. High tide is required due to the reef shelf underneath the finale. Start as for Lara Croft and follow her to the handrail below the crux groove. Hand traverse to the left hand side of the rail and climb the flying arete to a crumbly finish left of the stone pinnacle. It is highly recommended to snorkel first and inspect the landing zone.
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Nick Strong attempts to seduce Lara Croft
Nick Strong grappling with Lara Croft's jugs before being rejected
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LEUKOSIA 5.11d 10m 15th August 2008
This route answers the siren call of the white wall right of Lara Croft. Start from the bottom of Lara Croft (ooer missus!). Step right directly above the crux of Ambergris to climb the steep wall on good but spaced pockets to a shake out on the traverse of White Guilt. Follow this leftwards to finish up Lara Croft.
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LATS LACTIC OCEAN 5.12a 10m 9th Sep 2008
This route offers no new climbing but gives the most sustained link up on the wall. Start as for Leukosia then reverse White Guilt into Song to the Siren. Continue along this to finish up Atlantis.
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Bryan Caldwell tries his luck with Lara
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SONG TO THE SIREN 5.11c 10m 27th July 2008
An indirect extended start to the classic line of Atlantis. Follow Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the left hand side of the deepest cave, climb through the roof to gain a shake out at two deep pockets over the lip. Traverse horizontally rightwards to gain the niche of Atlantis and finish up this.
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WHITE GUILT 5.11d 10m 9th August 2008
Excellent climbing linking the start of Song to the Siren to the finish of Lara Croft. From the deep pockets traverse leftwards to join Lara Croft just before the crux.
Ward Byrum on Atlantis. Photo Alex Hammond
Tristan DeSilva pulls a big hold off Romantic Pottery
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Ward Byrum on Atlantis. Photo Alex Hammond
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ATLANTIS 5.11b 10m 21st October 2006
Amazing climbing through stupendous horizontal territory. Follow Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the right hand side of the deepest cave make long moves up to a niche. Climb rightwards out of this with difficulty to a good hold and step right to a semi-rest. Pull directly through the final overhang to the consternation of the BBQ makers above. During the Bermuda Climbers Keep Bermuda Beautiful marine clean up on 19/9/9 there was noted to be a 6 foot long green moray eel living in a hole underneath Atlantis.
Amazing climbing through stupendous horizontal territory. Follow Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the right hand side of the deepest cave make long moves up to a niche. Climb rightwards out of this with difficulty to a good hold and step right to a semi-rest. Pull directly through the final overhang to the consternation of the BBQ makers above. During the Bermuda Climbers Keep Bermuda Beautiful marine clean up on 19/9/9 there was noted to be a 6 foot long green moray eel living in a hole underneath Atlantis.
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Exiting the niche of Atlantis
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LOST CITY 5.12a 10m
A dramatic finale to Atlantis. Follow Atlantis to the good hold where it goes right under the final ceiling. Instead of moving right, leap wildly through the roof to a good hold on the lip followed by an horrendous mantelshelf.
Exiting the niche of Atlantis
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LOST CITY 5.12a 10m
A dramatic finale to Atlantis. Follow Atlantis to the good hold where it goes right under the final ceiling. Instead of moving right, leap wildly through the roof to a good hold on the lip followed by an horrendous mantelshelf.
First and subsequent numerous ascents by Ward Byrum, 2007. First non Ward ascent by Grant Farquhar, 6th Aug 2008
Video of a Ward ascent with a... 'variation finish' here-
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23422843@N02/2744952811/
Video of a Ward ascent with a... 'variation finish' here-
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23422843@N02/2744952811/
Another Video of Atlantis and Lost City here
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A shark's eye view of Ward Byrum heading for the Lost City finish to Atlantis
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BATHOS PARTY 5.11b 10m 27th March 2008
Start as for Atlantis but continue along the traverse past the start of this to ledges beneath the next cave which is bounded on the right by the overhanging rib of Romantic Pottery. Directly above is the ceiling below the final traverse of Atlantis which has a flange hold in the underside. Climb steeply on big jugs to grasp the flange hold and use this to gain the lip of the roof. Rock over onto the wall above to join Atlantis and finish as for this.
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A shark's eye view of Ward Byrum heading for the Lost City finish to Atlantis
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BATHOS PARTY 5.11b 10m 27th March 2008
Start as for Atlantis but continue along the traverse past the start of this to ledges beneath the next cave which is bounded on the right by the overhanging rib of Romantic Pottery. Directly above is the ceiling below the final traverse of Atlantis which has a flange hold in the underside. Climb steeply on big jugs to grasp the flange hold and use this to gain the lip of the roof. Rock over onto the wall above to join Atlantis and finish as for this.
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ROMANTIC POTTERY 5.10c 10m March 2003
Climbs the right-hand twin pillar in the bay. Follow Ambergris to an overhanging rib with massive roofs to the left. Climb steeply up the rib staying left of the obvious rock scar to join the finishing moves of Atlantis.
. Climbs the right-hand twin pillar in the bay. Follow Ambergris to an overhanging rib with massive roofs to the left. Climb steeply up the rib staying left of the obvious rock scar to join the finishing moves of Atlantis.
Tristan DeSilva pulls a big hold off Romantic Pottery
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This eliminate route climbs the grey overhanging wall between the rib of Romantic Pottery and the wall plugged by The Enema Bandit. From the base of the rib of Romantic Pottery step right and climb steeply up on grey pockety rock right of the rock scar. Avoid escapes onto neighbouring routes and continue directly until a horizontal break and hand jam is attained just below the slabby topout which is surprisingly difficult. Summon the power of Gandhi after hitting his crackpipe and levitate to the top.
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THE ENEMA BANDIT 5.10c 8m
This excellent route climbs the steep rib left of Enema of the State. Follow Ambergris along the traverse past the rib of Romantic Pottery and a thin section to gain a crucial large incut pocket on the traverse before Enema of the State. Alternatively, step left from the ledge at the base of Enema of the State to the same point. From the incut pocket, climb directly on good holds through steep territory to latch an obvious triangular orange jug. If you manage to avoid the bandit then continue directly to the left hand side of the broad niche and then the top. Direct start (as described) Davie Crawford 12th August 2009, Original start (via Scottish Mating Call) Grant Farquhar 18th April 2009
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THE ENEMA BANDIT 5.10c 8m
This excellent route climbs the steep rib left of Enema of the State. Follow Ambergris along the traverse past the rib of Romantic Pottery and a thin section to gain a crucial large incut pocket on the traverse before Enema of the State. Alternatively, step left from the ledge at the base of Enema of the State to the same point. From the incut pocket, climb directly on good holds through steep territory to latch an obvious triangular orange jug. If you manage to avoid the bandit then continue directly to the left hand side of the broad niche and then the top. Direct start (as described) Davie Crawford 12th August 2009, Original start (via Scottish Mating Call) Grant Farquhar 18th April 2009
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ENEMA OF THE STATE 5.10b 7m 24th October 2006
This route is very good and on excellent rock. Start as for Ambergris. Follow the traverse of Ambergris around the overhanging arete of Romantic Pottery and continue to gain a no hands rest on a ledge before the mouth of the caves. Step up to a proud incut jug at the base of the pale overhanging orange streaked wall. Climb the wall to a broad niche feature and the top. Safe at all tide states except spring low tide. First non- Farquhar ascent by Davie Crawford 18th April 2009.
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SCOTTISH MATING CALL 5.10d 7m 28th April 2009
A diagonal traverse from the ledge at the base of Enema of the State to finish as for Atlantis. Start up Enema of the State to the proud incut jug. Traverse diagonally leftwards on slopers to an obvious triangular orange jug (on The Enema Bandit), continue leftwards across Gandhi on Crack to join Romantic Pottery and finish as for Atlantis.
SYCOPHANT 5.11c 7m 31st May 2009
The right hand finish to Enema of the State gives intense pumpy climbing. In the very overhanging wall right of Enema of the State is a prominent brown nose of rock. Start up Enema of The State to pay your compliments to the proud incut jug. Kowtow one move up to a sloping horizontal rail. Flatter your way rightwards along the rail to the brown nose. Attain a standing position on the nose and top out obsequiously.
This route is very good and on excellent rock. Start as for Ambergris. Follow the traverse of Ambergris around the overhanging arete of Romantic Pottery and continue to gain a no hands rest on a ledge before the mouth of the caves. Step up to a proud incut jug at the base of the pale overhanging orange streaked wall. Climb the wall to a broad niche feature and the top. Safe at all tide states except spring low tide. First non- Farquhar ascent by Davie Crawford 18th April 2009.
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SCOTTISH MATING CALL 5.10d 7m 28th April 2009
A diagonal traverse from the ledge at the base of Enema of the State to finish as for Atlantis. Start up Enema of the State to the proud incut jug. Traverse diagonally leftwards on slopers to an obvious triangular orange jug (on The Enema Bandit), continue leftwards across Gandhi on Crack to join Romantic Pottery and finish as for Atlantis.
SYCOPHANT 5.11c 7m 31st May 2009
The right hand finish to Enema of the State gives intense pumpy climbing. In the very overhanging wall right of Enema of the State is a prominent brown nose of rock. Start up Enema of The State to pay your compliments to the proud incut jug. Kowtow one move up to a sloping horizontal rail. Flatter your way rightwards along the rail to the brown nose. Attain a standing position on the nose and top out obsequiously.
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The first ascent of Barotrauma
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BAROTRAUMA 5.11b 7m 7th November 2006
Strenuous climbing through the ceiling above the cave exit. Follow Ambergris to a no-hands rest on the ledge below the orange streaked wall of Enema of the State. Continue along the traverse for a few moves to the arete at the mouth of the cave. Make strenuous moves rightwards through horizontal territory above the mouth of the cave to top out via a bonsai tree. 2nd ascent 7th May, 2009.Video here.
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![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/Q2XZPYpqwpeVCsYJS6AQug441180/GW800H533 "[Untitled]")
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Elena Whitburn nee Ovchinnikova on Petra, husband Paul in the water
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PETRA 5.11b 7m
Tackles the right hand side of the cave entrance. Gain ledges under the west side of the cave from the cave itself. Climb diagonally leftwards on steep ground above the cave to finish via the bonsai tree above the mouth of the cave. Fabian Gysi 30th August 2008. 2nd ascent 3rd Sep 2008.
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Variation Finish#1: Move left at the top into the circular cave feature and finish above. Fabian Gysi September 2008.
Note- Petra is the most reliable DWS route for difficult conditions on the North Shore. It is easily accesible via the port hole from the main cave. It is safe in any tide. The morning sun dries the moisture after heavy rain, it doesn't seep and it doesn't get soaked in choppy seas. No excuses- get on it!
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![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/HO8U3Bv_SWY5Gz6s1trBmw400394/GW800H469 "[Untitled]")
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Elena Whitburn nee Ovchinnikova vs Petra
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Variation Finish#2: PETRAUMA 5.11c 10m 14th May 2009
This variation on Petra provides a lip trip above the cave entrance. Start up Petra and move left along the lip into Barotrauma. Reverse this to the no-hands ledge at sea-level.
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![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/u9BaMSM2a9mSfG-9CwMbmg549398/GW800H533 "[Untitled]")
Elena Whitburn nee Ovchinnikova topping out on Petra
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EMPEROR MING 5.12a 5m 25th April 2009
Will grant you an audience under the horizontal roof left of Captain Caveman. Beware because he doesn't tolerate mistakes, one false move and he will feed you to the sharks. Even Gordon would be doing well to Flash this. From the starting port hole of Captain Caveman step around the rib to the east to gain ledges. Follow the line of holds out through the large ceiling to gain a projecting jug on the lip and then the top. Takes a few days to dry after rain otherwise the penultimate holds will be covered in merciless ming.
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The first ascent of Barotrauma
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BAROTRAUMA 5.11b 7m 7th November 2006
Strenuous climbing through the ceiling above the cave exit. Follow Ambergris to a no-hands rest on the ledge below the orange streaked wall of Enema of the State. Continue along the traverse for a few moves to the arete at the mouth of the cave. Make strenuous moves rightwards through horizontal territory above the mouth of the cave to top out via a bonsai tree. 2nd ascent 7th May, 2009.Video here.
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Elena Whitburn nee Ovchinnikova on Petra, husband Paul in the water
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PETRA 5.11b 7m
Tackles the right hand side of the cave entrance. Gain ledges under the west side of the cave from the cave itself. Climb diagonally leftwards on steep ground above the cave to finish via the bonsai tree above the mouth of the cave. Fabian Gysi 30th August 2008. 2nd ascent 3rd Sep 2008.
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Variation Finish#1: Move left at the top into the circular cave feature and finish above. Fabian Gysi September 2008.
Note- Petra is the most reliable DWS route for difficult conditions on the North Shore. It is easily accesible via the port hole from the main cave. It is safe in any tide. The morning sun dries the moisture after heavy rain, it doesn't seep and it doesn't get soaked in choppy seas. No excuses- get on it!
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Elena Whitburn nee Ovchinnikova vs Petra
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Variation Finish#2: PETRAUMA 5.11c 10m 14th May 2009
This variation on Petra provides a lip trip above the cave entrance. Start up Petra and move left along the lip into Barotrauma. Reverse this to the no-hands ledge at sea-level.
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Elena Whitburn nee Ovchinnikova topping out on Petra
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EMPEROR MING 5.12a 5m 25th April 2009
Will grant you an audience under the horizontal roof left of Captain Caveman. Beware because he doesn't tolerate mistakes, one false move and he will feed you to the sharks. Even Gordon would be doing well to Flash this. From the starting port hole of Captain Caveman step around the rib to the east to gain ledges. Follow the line of holds out through the large ceiling to gain a projecting jug on the lip and then the top. Takes a few days to dry after rain otherwise the penultimate holds will be covered in merciless ming.
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Davie Crawford attempting Captain Caveman in Clarence Cove.
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CAPTAIN CAVEMAN 5.11a 5m
Right of Petra is a large horizontal roof. Below the roof is a port hole which accesses the main cave.
Start in the west side of the port hole. Climb the very steep, undercut rib to an obvious impasse at the horizontal roof. Using caveman powers, thug your way over the roof and finish to the cheers of the Teen Angels (Brenda, Dee Dee & Taffy). Davie Crawford 19th September 2008. 2nd and 3rd and 4th ascents by Grant Farquhar, Davie Crawford and Fabian Gysi 20th September 2008
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Davie Crawford gets clubbed by Captain Caveman.
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UNGA BUNGA 5.9 4m 12th August 2009
This short but sharp route climbs the steep wall and groove between the roof of Captain Caveman and the point. Gain a no hands resting ledge either by stepping east under the rib of Captain Caveman or by traversing west from the point. From the ledge climb steeply up and leftwards to jugs in the groove right of the roof system. Top out directly above.
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