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Clarence Cove
If you are standing where this photo was taken, the climbs in Clarence Cove are behind your left shoulder. Google Map.
West of the dock in Clarence Cove are some man made caves which end on Hogfish point from where many a fine night dive has been started. West again is Hogfish Bay which has an arch at its western tip.
This is the most popular DWS venue in Bermuda. The climbs lie below the stone pinnacle, in the bay formed between the dock and the point. Here you will find a massive roof system bounded by the twin ribs of Lara Croft and Romantic Pottery. The routes are safe at any state of the tide with the odd exception that is mentioned in the description. Unless otherwise indicated, first ascents and photos by Grant Farquhar. Topo at the foot of the page.
Best conditions- this is limestone, so conditions are important. From experience we have found that a light North- Westerly makes for the best conditions. Above 15 knots (in any Northerly wind direction) there will be significant splashing up the crag which will make at least the lower part of the crag damp and slippy.
![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/gIlQAe7CCnBN3oCkuod6ww472916/GW533H800 "[Untitled]")
Tim Emmett on the crux of Ambergris
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AMBERGRIS 5.10d 50m sea-level traverse 15th October 2006
A very good DWS traverse which was originally climbed right to left but is now more usually done left to right. It is equally good in either direction. Start from ledges east of the little stone pinnacle atop the cliff in Clarence Cove. Scramble down to sea-level. Start traversing westward (right) to a cave and continue below the overhanging arete of Lara Croft (crux) to gain ledges below massive overhangs. Climb westwards around the overhanging arete of Romantic Pottery and continue to gain a no hands rest on a ledge. The next section leads into the mouth of the cave system and is fairly cramped territory. The cave system leads to steps. Safe at all tide states except spring low tide.
Variation Finish: POINT COUNTERPOINT A good introduction to DWS as it is close to the water and only about 5.7. Continue traversing beyond the caves around the point to finish at the ledge and steps on the west side of the point. March 2003 (this was the original start to Romantic Pottery).
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SINISTER SISTER 5.11b 8m 8th April 2010
The dark side of the Lara Croft arete forms her evil twin. High tide is required due to the reef shelf underneath. Start as for Lara Croft but stay inside the cave on the left hand side of the arete to reach the left hand side of the handrail. Climb the flying arete to a crumbly finish left of the stone pinnacle. It is highly recommended to snorkel first and inspect the landing zone.
Nick Strong grappling with Lara Croft's jugs before being rejected GANDHI ON CRACK 5.10d 8m 2008
KISS ASS 5.11b 7m 19/5/10
This variation was formerly known as "The order of the brown nose". It is one step short of sycophancy. From half way along the rail between Enema of the State and the brown nose of Sycophant, make a long move up to holds in the white scoop up and left of the brown nose. Finish directly. ![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/TccpTXG5TFgMuXqORJBYJQ461299/GW800H533 "[Untitled]")
Davie Crawford repeating Captain Caveman.
CAPTAIN CAVEMAN 5.11a 5m
Right of Petra is a large horizontal roof. Below the roof is a port hole which accesses the main cave.
Start in the west side of the port hole. Climb the very steep, undercut rib to an obvious impasse at the horizontal roof. Using caveman powers, thug your way over the roof and finish to the cheers of the Teen Angels (Brenda, Dee Dee & Taffy). Davie Crawford 19th September 2008. 2nd and 3rd and 4th ascents by Grant Farquhar, Davie Crawford and Fabian Gysi 20th September 2008
Marie- Pier Belanger gets to the 'C' of YMCA before splashdown off Captain Caveman (photo Davie Crawford)
UNGA BUNGA 5.9 4m 12th August 2009
This short but sharp route climbs the steep wall and groove between the roof of Captain Caveman and the point. Gain a no hands resting ledge either by stepping east under the rib of Captain Caveman or by traversing west from the point. From the ledge climb steeply up and leftwards to jugs in the groove right of the roof system. Top out directly above.
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A very good DWS traverse which was originally climbed right to left but is now more usually done left to right. It is equally good in either direction. Start from ledges east of the little stone pinnacle atop the cliff in Clarence Cove. Scramble down to sea-level. Start traversing westward (right) to a cave and continue below the overhanging arete of Lara Croft (crux) to gain ledges below massive overhangs. Climb westwards around the overhanging arete of Romantic Pottery and continue to gain a no hands rest on a ledge. The next section leads into the mouth of the cave system and is fairly cramped territory. The cave system leads to steps. Safe at all tide states except spring low tide.
Variation Finish: POINT COUNTERPOINT A good introduction to DWS as it is close to the water and only about 5.7. Continue traversing beyond the caves around the point to finish at the ledge and steps on the west side of the point. March 2003 (this was the original start to Romantic Pottery).
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SINISTER SISTER 5.11b 8m 8th April 2010
The dark side of the Lara Croft arete forms her evil twin. High tide is required due to the reef shelf underneath. Start as for Lara Croft but stay inside the cave on the left hand side of the arete to reach the left hand side of the handrail. Climb the flying arete to a crumbly finish left of the stone pinnacle. It is highly recommended to snorkel first and inspect the landing zone.
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Fabian Gysi on the handrail of Lara Croft.
Grant Farquhar making the crux throw on Lara Croft, Devin Page spectating (photo Davie Crawford)
Fabian Gysi on the handrail of Lara Croft.
Grant Farquhar making the crux throw on Lara Croft, Devin Page spectating (photo Davie Crawford)
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LARA CROFT 5.11a 8m 18th October 2006
A perfect DWS route. Good rock above deep water with the crux at the very top. Named because it is feisty and gymnastic with big jugs. This brilliant line takes the left hand twin pillar in the bay. Follow Ambergris to a cave and ledge just before the pillar. Fight onto the very front of the pillar. Climb this directly to a handrail and shake out before licking the final groove into submission. Safe.
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The above siamese twin routes are joined at the handrail where it is possible to climb interchangeable variations: Follow Lara Croft to the handrail, traverse left and finish up Sinister Sister 5.11b 30/4/9 Start up Sinister Sister to the handrail and finish up Lara Croft 5.11a 8/4/10
LARA CROFT 5.11a 8m 18th October 2006
A perfect DWS route. Good rock above deep water with the crux at the very top. Named because it is feisty and gymnastic with big jugs. This brilliant line takes the left hand twin pillar in the bay. Follow Ambergris to a cave and ledge just before the pillar. Fight onto the very front of the pillar. Climb this directly to a handrail and shake out before licking the final groove into submission. Safe.
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The above siamese twin routes are joined at the handrail where it is possible to climb interchangeable variations: Follow Lara Croft to the handrail, traverse left and finish up Sinister Sister 5.11b 30/4/9 Start up Sinister Sister to the handrail and finish up Lara Croft 5.11a 8/4/10
Nick Strong grappling with Lara Croft's jugs before being rejected
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LEUKOSIA 5.11d 8m 15th August 2008
This route answers the siren call of the white wall right of Lara Croft. Start from the bottom of Lara Croft (ooer missus!). Step right directly above the crux of Ambergris to climb the steep wall on good but spaced pockets to a shake out on the traverse of White Guilt. Follow this leftwards to finish up Lara Croft (or Sinister Sister, 23/6/11).
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SONG TO THE SIREN 5.11c 8m 27th July 2008.
An indirect extended start to the classic line of Atlantis. Follow Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the left hand side of the deepest cave, climb through the roof to gain a shake out at two deep pockets over the lip. Traverse horizontally rightwards to gain the niche of Atlantis and finish up this.
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![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/HS1wZ5ay3lVXN7Q2xVfRbg444891/GW800H559 "[Untitled]")
Seb Grieve on White Guilt
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Seb Grieve on White Guilt
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WHITE GUILT 5.11d 8m 9th August 2008
Excellent climbing linking the start of Song to the Siren to the finish of Lara Croft. From the deep pockets traverse leftwards to join Lara Croft just before the crux.
![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/PS02mZ-RZgm4Cb2XA3RFUg492494/GW533H800 "[Untitled]")
Grant Farquhar taking a Bullet in the Chest
BULLET IN THE CHEST 5.13a 8m
The Emmett has landed! From the deep pockets on the above two routes climb direct to the top.
Tim Emmett 9th December 2010. Second ascent Ward Byrum 2nd July 2011 Video here.
Ward Byrum on Atlantis. Photo Alex Hammond
Grant Farquhar on Atlantis (photo Davie Crawford)
Grant Farquhar taking a Bullet in the Chest
BULLET IN THE CHEST 5.13a 8m
The Emmett has landed! From the deep pockets on the above two routes climb direct to the top.
Tim Emmett 9th December 2010. Second ascent Ward Byrum 2nd July 2011 Video here.
Ward Byrum on Atlantis. Photo Alex Hammond
Grant Farquhar on Atlantis (photo Davie Crawford)
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ATLANTIS 5.11b 8m 21st October 2006
Amazing climbing through stupendous horizontal territory. Follow Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the right hand side of the deepest cave make long moves up to a niche. Climb rightwards out of this with difficulty to a good hold and step right to a semi-rest. Pull directly through the final overhang to the consternation of the BBQ makers above. During the Bermuda Climbers Keep Bermuda Beautiful marine clean up on 19/9/9 Eloise Pitts Crick found a 6 foot long green moray eel living in a hole underneath Atlantis.
Amazing climbing through stupendous horizontal territory. Follow Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the right hand side of the deepest cave make long moves up to a niche. Climb rightwards out of this with difficulty to a good hold and step right to a semi-rest. Pull directly through the final overhang to the consternation of the BBQ makers above. During the Bermuda Climbers Keep Bermuda Beautiful marine clean up on 19/9/9 Eloise Pitts Crick found a 6 foot long green moray eel living in a hole underneath Atlantis.
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![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/sV1TbIzbOIZvMnUSTmKZfA492715/GW800H533 "[Untitled]")
Jazmyne Watson on Atlantis
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LOST CITY 5.12a 8m
A dramatic finale to Atlantis. Follow Atlantis to the good hold where it goes right under the final ceiling. Instead of moving right, leap wildly through the roof to a good hold on the lip followed by an horrendous mantelshelf.
Jazmyne Watson on Atlantis
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LOST CITY 5.12a 8m
A dramatic finale to Atlantis. Follow Atlantis to the good hold where it goes right under the final ceiling. Instead of moving right, leap wildly through the roof to a good hold on the lip followed by an horrendous mantelshelf.
First and subsequent numerous ascents by Ward Byrum, 2007. First non Ward ascent by Grant Farquhar, 6th Aug 2008
Video of a Ward ascent with a... 'variation finish' here-
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23422843@N02/2744952811/
Video of a Ward ascent with a... 'variation finish' here-
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23422843@N02/2744952811/
Another Video of Atlantis and Lost City here
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A shark's eye view of Ward Byrum heading for the Lost City finish to Atlantis
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BAMPOTTERY 5.11c 8m 13/8/11
An eliminate but independent start to Flangemaster Flash. Quintessential bampottery YA BASS! Start off the ledge between Atlantis and Bathos Party. Heid butt the ****** teuchter bampot large roof to join Flangemaster Flash and then Atlantis. Beware of the ledge under the starting moves ya dirty HOOR!
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BATHOS PARTY 5.11b 8m 27th March 2008
Start as for Atlantis but continue along the traverse past the start of this to ledges beneath the next cave which is bounded on the right by the overhanging rib of Romantic Pottery. Directly above is the ceiling below the final traverse of Atlantis which has a flange hold in the underside. Climb steeply on big jugs to grasp the flange hold and use this to gain the lip of the roof. Rock over onto the wall above to join Atlantis and finish as for this.
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A shark's eye view of Ward Byrum heading for the Lost City finish to Atlantis
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BAMPOTTERY 5.11c 8m 13/8/11
An eliminate but independent start to Flangemaster Flash. Quintessential bampottery YA BASS! Start off the ledge between Atlantis and Bathos Party. Heid butt the ****** teuchter bampot large roof to join Flangemaster Flash and then Atlantis. Beware of the ledge under the starting moves ya dirty HOOR!
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BATHOS PARTY 5.11b 8m 27th March 2008
Start as for Atlantis but continue along the traverse past the start of this to ledges beneath the next cave which is bounded on the right by the overhanging rib of Romantic Pottery. Directly above is the ceiling below the final traverse of Atlantis which has a flange hold in the underside. Climb steeply on big jugs to grasp the flange hold and use this to gain the lip of the roof. Rock over onto the wall above to join Atlantis and finish as for this.
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FLANGEMASTER FLASH 5.11c 8m 2nd June 2010
A harder indirect variation on Bathos Party. From the flange hold under the roof make like Flange McFlangenstein along the mini-flangefest leftwards under the lip to join Atlantis at the exit from the niche. Finish up Atlantis.
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![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/g9w__haCCnTr-GJ8Zb3Gow184083/GW800H533 "[Untitled]")
In Bermuda it is possible to DWS year round. This is an ascent of Atlantis after work in November
FLANGEMASTER FLASH 5.11c 8m 2nd June 2010
A harder indirect variation on Bathos Party. From the flange hold under the roof make like Flange McFlangenstein along the mini-flangefest leftwards under the lip to join Atlantis at the exit from the niche. Finish up Atlantis.
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In Bermuda it is possible to DWS year round. This is an ascent of Atlantis after work in November
ROMANTIC POTTERY 5.10c 8m March 2003
Climbs the right-hand twin pillar in the bay. Follow Ambergris to an overhanging rib with massive roofs to the left. Step around the rib then climb directly past the obvious rock scar to a horizontal break. Rockover leftwards to the finish of Atlantis. Alternatively and slightly harder, climb the arete directly and step right to the horizontal break. (2008).
..Climbs the right-hand twin pillar in the bay. Follow Ambergris to an overhanging rib with massive roofs to the left. Step around the rib then climb directly past the obvious rock scar to a horizontal break. Rockover leftwards to the finish of Atlantis. Alternatively and slightly harder, climb the arete directly and step right to the horizontal break. (2008).
This eliminate route tackles the direct finish to Romantic Pottery. Start as for Romantic Pottery. Climb right of the scar to the horizontal break. Step right and summon the power of Gandhi after hitting his crackpipe and levitate directly to the top of the headwall.
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THE ENEMA BANDIT 5.10c 8m
This excellent route climbs the steep rib left of Enema of the State. Follow Ambergris along the traverse past the rib of Romantic Pottery and a thin section to gain a crucial large incut pocket on the traverse before Enema of the State. Alternatively, step left from the ledge at the base of Enema of the State to the same point. From the incut pocket, climb up and slightly right on good holds through steep territory to latch an obvious triangular orange sloper. If you manage to avoid the bandit then continue directly to the left hand side of the broad niche and then the top. Direct start (as described) Davie Crawford 12th August 2009, Original start (via Scottish Mating Call) Grant Farquhar 18th April 2009
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![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/ADVMfmiX-4octToqw9D9mw472337/GW533H800 "[Untitled]")
Marie-Pier Belanger on Enema of the State
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THE ENEMA BANDIT 5.10c 8m
This excellent route climbs the steep rib left of Enema of the State. Follow Ambergris along the traverse past the rib of Romantic Pottery and a thin section to gain a crucial large incut pocket on the traverse before Enema of the State. Alternatively, step left from the ledge at the base of Enema of the State to the same point. From the incut pocket, climb up and slightly right on good holds through steep territory to latch an obvious triangular orange sloper. If you manage to avoid the bandit then continue directly to the left hand side of the broad niche and then the top. Direct start (as described) Davie Crawford 12th August 2009, Original start (via Scottish Mating Call) Grant Farquhar 18th April 2009
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Marie-Pier Belanger on Enema of the State
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ENEMA OF THE STATE 5.10b 7m 24th October 2006
This route is very good and on excellent rock. Start as for Ambergris. Follow the traverse of Ambergris around the overhanging arete of Romantic Pottery and continue to gain a no hands rest on a ledge before the mouth of the caves. Step up to a proud incut jug at the base of the pale overhanging orange streaked wall. Climb the wall to a broad niche feature and the top. Safe at all tide states except spring low tide. Second ascent by Davie Crawford 18th April 2009.
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SCOTTISH MATING CALL 5.10d 7m 28th April 2009
A diagonal traverse from the ledge at the base of Enema of the State to finish as for Atlantis. Start up Enema of the State to the proud incut jug. Traverse diagonally leftwards on slopers to an obvious triangular orange sloper (on The Enema Bandit), continue leftwards across Romantic Pottery and finish as for Atlantis.
Josh Hill on Sycophant. Photo Davie Crawford
SYCOPHANT 5.11c 7m 31st May 2009
The right hand finish to Enema of the State gives intense pumpy climbing. In the very overhanging wall right of Enema of the State is a prominent brown nose of rock. Start up Enema of The State to pay your compliments to the proud incut jug. Kowtow one move up to a sloping horizontal rail. Flatter your way rightwards along the rail to the brown nose. Attain a standing position on the nose and top out obsequiously.
![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/wKFBSa747Tk1gIykIQDuIA452240/GW800H559 "[Untitled]")
Josh Hill on Persistence is Futile
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This route is very good and on excellent rock. Start as for Ambergris. Follow the traverse of Ambergris around the overhanging arete of Romantic Pottery and continue to gain a no hands rest on a ledge before the mouth of the caves. Step up to a proud incut jug at the base of the pale overhanging orange streaked wall. Climb the wall to a broad niche feature and the top. Safe at all tide states except spring low tide. Second ascent by Davie Crawford 18th April 2009.
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SCOTTISH MATING CALL 5.10d 7m 28th April 2009
A diagonal traverse from the ledge at the base of Enema of the State to finish as for Atlantis. Start up Enema of the State to the proud incut jug. Traverse diagonally leftwards on slopers to an obvious triangular orange sloper (on The Enema Bandit), continue leftwards across Romantic Pottery and finish as for Atlantis.
Josh Hill on Sycophant. Photo Davie Crawford
SYCOPHANT 5.11c 7m 31st May 2009
The right hand finish to Enema of the State gives intense pumpy climbing. In the very overhanging wall right of Enema of the State is a prominent brown nose of rock. Start up Enema of The State to pay your compliments to the proud incut jug. Kowtow one move up to a sloping horizontal rail. Flatter your way rightwards along the rail to the brown nose. Attain a standing position on the nose and top out obsequiously.
Josh Hill on Persistence is Futile
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PERSISTENCE IS FUTILE 5.12a 7m
A direct line up Sycophant that begins in the cave below. Find the huge left hand pocket to begin and lean out to reach for a right seeming jug. Lock you feet next to your left hand and bump to another semi-good right hand crimp. Use left hand intermediates until your able to hit the left hand crimp just before the brown nose on Sycophant. Pray that your feet don't cut loss and finish up Sycophant. Josh Hill 30/6/11. Second ascent flashed by Ward Byrum 30/6/11
.A direct line up Sycophant that begins in the cave below. Find the huge left hand pocket to begin and lean out to reach for a right seeming jug. Lock you feet next to your left hand and bump to another semi-good right hand crimp. Use left hand intermediates until your able to hit the left hand crimp just before the brown nose on Sycophant. Pray that your feet don't cut loss and finish up Sycophant. Josh Hill 30/6/11. Second ascent flashed by Ward Byrum 30/6/11
KISS ASS 5.11b 7m 19/5/10
This variation was formerly known as "The order of the brown nose". It is one step short of sycophancy. From half way along the rail between Enema of the State and the brown nose of Sycophant, make a long move up to holds in the white scoop up and left of the brown nose. Finish directly.
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KICK ASS 5.11d 7m 26/9/10
Kick Ass or get yo ass kicked on this direct start to Kiss Ass. Fierce sequential climbing on sharp pockets. Start on the ledge underneath Enema of the State. Climb just right of Enema of the State through the roof above the LHS of the ledge to gain the rail. Kiss Ass to finish. 2nd ascent Josh Hill 9th July, 2011
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KICK ASS 5.11d 7m 26/9/10
Kick Ass or get yo ass kicked on this direct start to Kiss Ass. Fierce sequential climbing on sharp pockets. Start on the ledge underneath Enema of the State. Climb just right of Enema of the State through the roof above the LHS of the ledge to gain the rail. Kiss Ass to finish. 2nd ascent Josh Hill 9th July, 2011
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ORDERING ENEMA TRAUMA 5.11c 7m
Start up Enema, traverse as for Sycophant and just keep traversing until you're at the top out tree stump of Barotrauma.
John Langston 18/8/10 2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 19/8/10
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BAROTRAUMA 5.11b 7m 7th November 2006
Strenuous climbing through the ceiling above the cave exit. Follow Ambergris to a no-hands rest on the ledge below the orange streaked wall of Enema of the State. Continue along the traverse for a few moves to the arete at the mouth of the cave. Make strenuous moves rightwards through horizontal territory above the mouth of the cave to top out via a tree stump. Video here.
![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/OQBNVlCWNGVHsCuKJXej1w391502/GW270H382 "[Untitled]")
![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/Sk6Uu3jdyEuToKGvnbzIgw426094/GW263H382 "[Untitled]")
![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/L8HwjGiGsNmbp87-eCfadg481226/GW291H382 "[Untitled]")
![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/PShe7hRPojKVUxOS8vvWbA461361/GW298H383 "[Untitled]")
Tim Emmett experiencing Barotrauma
THE MING DYNO NASTY 5.11b 7m
Footless moves across the lip of the roof above Emperor Ming will leave you literally over the ming. A contrived name for a contrived but good fun route. Start as for Barotrauma, step right into Petra. Slap right to the good pocket of Petrafied. Campus rightwards again to a horizontal slot and top out just left of the greenery. Grant Farquhar 29/9/11
PETRA 5.11c 7m
Tackles the right hand side of the cave entrance. Gain ledges under the west side of the cave from the cave itself. Climb diagonally leftwards on steep ground above the cave to finish via the bonsai tree above the mouth of the cave. Petra originally had some good jugs and was 11a but she is getting meaner with age. Fabian Gysi 30th August 2008. 2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 3rd Sep 2008.
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Variation Finish#1: Move left at the top into the circular cave feature and finish above. Fabian Gysi September 2008.
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![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/HO8U3Bv_SWY5Gz6s1trBmw400394/GW800H469 "[Untitled]")
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Elena Ovchinnikova vs Petra
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Variation Finish#2 PETRAFIED 5.11c 7m 1st June 2011
Climb Petra to the jug immediately after the crux. Slap right to a good pocket and make a one arm pull up to finish directly above.
2nd ascent Josh Hill 5th June 2011
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EMPEROR MING 5.12a 5m 25th April 2009
Will grant you an audience under the horizontal roof left of Captain Caveman. Beware because he doesn't tolerate mistakes, one false move and he will feed you to the sharks. Even Gordon would be doing well to Flash this. From the starting port hole of Captain Caveman step around the rib to the east to gain ledges. Follow the line of holds out through the large ceiling to gain a projecting jug on the lip and then the top. Takes a few days to dry after rain otherwise the penultimate holds will be covered in merciless ming. Second ascent John Langston June, 2010
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Strenuous climbing through the ceiling above the cave exit. Follow Ambergris to a no-hands rest on the ledge below the orange streaked wall of Enema of the State. Continue along the traverse for a few moves to the arete at the mouth of the cave. Make strenuous moves rightwards through horizontal territory above the mouth of the cave to top out via a tree stump. Video here.
Tim Emmett experiencing Barotrauma
THE MING DYNO NASTY 5.11b 7m
Footless moves across the lip of the roof above Emperor Ming will leave you literally over the ming. A contrived name for a contrived but good fun route. Start as for Barotrauma, step right into Petra. Slap right to the good pocket of Petrafied. Campus rightwards again to a horizontal slot and top out just left of the greenery. Grant Farquhar 29/9/11
PETRA 5.11c 7m
Tackles the right hand side of the cave entrance. Gain ledges under the west side of the cave from the cave itself. Climb diagonally leftwards on steep ground above the cave to finish via the bonsai tree above the mouth of the cave. Petra originally had some good jugs and was 11a but she is getting meaner with age. Fabian Gysi 30th August 2008. 2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 3rd Sep 2008.
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Variation Finish#1: Move left at the top into the circular cave feature and finish above. Fabian Gysi September 2008.
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Elena Ovchinnikova vs Petra
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Variation Finish#2 PETRAFIED 5.11c 7m 1st June 2011
Climb Petra to the jug immediately after the crux. Slap right to a good pocket and make a one arm pull up to finish directly above.
2nd ascent Josh Hill 5th June 2011
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EMPEROR MING 5.12a 5m 25th April 2009
Will grant you an audience under the horizontal roof left of Captain Caveman. Beware because he doesn't tolerate mistakes, one false move and he will feed you to the sharks. Even Gordon would be doing well to Flash this. From the starting port hole of Captain Caveman step around the rib to the east to gain ledges. Follow the line of holds out through the large ceiling to gain a projecting jug on the lip and then the top. Takes a few days to dry after rain otherwise the penultimate holds will be covered in merciless ming. Second ascent John Langston June, 2010
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Davie Crawford repeating Captain Caveman.
CAPTAIN CAVEMAN 5.11a 5m
Right of Petra is a large horizontal roof. Below the roof is a port hole which accesses the main cave.
Start in the west side of the port hole. Climb the very steep, undercut rib to an obvious impasse at the horizontal roof. Using caveman powers, thug your way over the roof and finish to the cheers of the Teen Angels (Brenda, Dee Dee & Taffy). Davie Crawford 19th September 2008. 2nd and 3rd and 4th ascents by Grant Farquhar, Davie Crawford and Fabian Gysi 20th September 2008
Marie- Pier Belanger gets to the 'C' of YMCA before splashdown off Captain Caveman (photo Davie Crawford)
UNGA BUNGA 5.9 4m 12th August 2009
This short but sharp route climbs the steep wall and groove between the roof of Captain Caveman and the point. Gain a no hands resting ledge either by stepping east under the rib of Captain Caveman or by traversing west from the point. From the ledge climb steeply up and leftwards to jugs in the groove right of the roof system. Top out directly above.
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. THE POINTLESS TRAVERSES
The next section describes the fun that can be had on the eliminate traverses which start on one route or another and finish somewhere else with little or no new climbing. If you start getting involved in these then you are definitely suffering from rock fever. The most logical combinations so far climbed are described.
LEFT TO RIGHT
LACTIC ACID BATH 5.12c 8m 7th June 2011
The ultimate left to right traverse. Approximately 35m of sustained climbing. Start as for Sinister Sister on the ledge left of the rib of Lara Croft. Follow Sinister Sister to gain the handrail of Lara Croft. Reverse White Guilt into Song to the Siren and follow this to the shake out before the final roof of Atlantis. Reverse Scottish Mating Call to cross Enema of the State. Ordering Enema Trauma leads to a shake out just before the finishing moves. Traverse rightwards across the lip of the roof into Petra and reverse this to the ledge.
LACTIC ACID TRIP 5.12b 8m 23/9/10
Start as for Leukosia into White Guilt. Follow Lactic Acid Bath and finish as for Ordering Enema Trauma.
Start as for Leukosia into White Guilt. Follow Lactic Acid Bath and finish as for Ordering Enema Trauma.
LATS LACTIC OCEAN 5.12a 8m 9th Sep 2008
Start as for Leukosia then reverse White Guilt into Song to the Siren. Continue along this to finish up Atlantis.
THE BAR PET FINISH 5.11c 6th June 2009
Finding Ambergris a bit too easy? When you get to the no-hands resting ledge at the mouth of the caves, start up Barotrauma, step right into Petra and reverse this to the ledge on the other side of the caves.
BARF 5.11b
Barotrauma to Petrafied. Josh Hill 5th June, 2011. 2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 9th June, 2011.
ORDERING ENEMA PETRA 5.11d May, 2011
Ordering Enema Trauma to finish by going down on Petra.
SONG TO THE STATE 5.11c 23/8/11
Start as for Song to the Siren and finish as for Enema of the State.
RIGHT TO LEFT
POOPENSHOOTEN 5.12c .
The ultimate right to left traverse. Same start as Base Humping and continue as for Clucking to top out on Lara Croft. This route contains no new climbing and doesn't have a single move beyond 11d. It will still have you screaming "Lick my Ass". Rack; nuts, strapon, buttplug. With the fingertips gripping the phosphorus overhang and the fingers of the other hand feeling the moist labia, maybe probing a little. ***********. John Langston Oct 17, 2010. 2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 22/6/11.
BASE HUMPING 5.12a 8m 29th August 2010 (Hurricane Danielle)
Another eliminate and contrived but very sustained 25m right to left traverse. Start up Petra into Petrauma, reverse Ordering Enema Trauma to the crux section of Enema of the State. Don't even think about downclimbing this to the big jug and a rest. Continue immediately leftwards via the only new moves on the route into Scottish Mating Call to finish as for Atlantis. If you climb this route in shorts during a hurricane the experience is like the sensation of 15 000 angels blowing really gently on your scrotum, it's very spiritual.
Tim Emmett takes time out from Base Jumping to enjoy a spot of Base Humping
ODE TAE A FART 5.11b 9/7/11
Follow Scottish Mating Call to the junction with Atlantis. Downclimb Atlantis.
CLUCKING 5.12a 8m 25th April, 2010
The counter diagonal to Lats Lactic Ocean gives a 25m traverse. Start from the ledge underneath Enema of the State. Follow Scottish Mating Call to the junction with Atlantis. Reverse this and then Song to the Siren leftwards to encounter White Guilt at the deep pockets, finish along this and Lara Croft. Hardcore, ******* hardcore. Remember, we are climbers who ****, not ******* who climb.
FLANGE ARMSTRONG 5.12a 8m 20/6/10
Yet another pointless but sustained variation. Follow Flangemaster Flash to the junction with Atlantis. Milk the strenuous no-hands rest in the niche before finishing by Clucking.
PET TRAUMA 5.11c 7m 14th May 2009
This variation on Petra provides a lip trip above the cave entrance. Start up Petra and move left along the lip into Barotrauma. Reverse this to the no-hands ledge at sea-level.
PET ENEMA 5.11c 2010
Start up Petra. Reverse Ordering Enema Trauma to finish with an Enema of the State.
THE BAR PET FINISH 5.11c 6th June 2009
Finding Ambergris a bit too easy? When you get to the no-hands resting ledge at the mouth of the caves, start up Barotrauma, step right into Petra and reverse this to the ledge on the other side of the caves.
BARF 5.11b
Barotrauma to Petrafied. Josh Hill 5th June, 2011. 2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 9th June, 2011.
ORDERING ENEMA PETRA 5.11d May, 2011
Ordering Enema Trauma to finish by going down on Petra.
SONG TO THE STATE 5.11c 23/8/11
Start as for Song to the Siren and finish as for Enema of the State.
RIGHT TO LEFT
POOPENSHOOTEN 5.12c .
The ultimate right to left traverse. Same start as Base Humping and continue as for Clucking to top out on Lara Croft. This route contains no new climbing and doesn't have a single move beyond 11d. It will still have you screaming "Lick my Ass". Rack; nuts, strapon, buttplug. With the fingertips gripping the phosphorus overhang and the fingers of the other hand feeling the moist labia, maybe probing a little. ***********. John Langston Oct 17, 2010. 2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 22/6/11.
BASE HUMPING 5.12a 8m 29th August 2010 (Hurricane Danielle)
Another eliminate and contrived but very sustained 25m right to left traverse. Start up Petra into Petrauma, reverse Ordering Enema Trauma to the crux section of Enema of the State. Don't even think about downclimbing this to the big jug and a rest. Continue immediately leftwards via the only new moves on the route into Scottish Mating Call to finish as for Atlantis. If you climb this route in shorts during a hurricane the experience is like the sensation of 15 000 angels blowing really gently on your scrotum, it's very spiritual.
Tim Emmett takes time out from Base Jumping to enjoy a spot of Base Humping
ODE TAE A FART 5.11b 9/7/11
Follow Scottish Mating Call to the junction with Atlantis. Downclimb Atlantis.
CLUCKING 5.12a 8m 25th April, 2010
The counter diagonal to Lats Lactic Ocean gives a 25m traverse. Start from the ledge underneath Enema of the State. Follow Scottish Mating Call to the junction with Atlantis. Reverse this and then Song to the Siren leftwards to encounter White Guilt at the deep pockets, finish along this and Lara Croft. Hardcore, ******* hardcore. Remember, we are climbers who ****, not ******* who climb.
FLANGE ARMSTRONG 5.12a 8m 20/6/10
Yet another pointless but sustained variation. Follow Flangemaster Flash to the junction with Atlantis. Milk the strenuous no-hands rest in the niche before finishing by Clucking.
PET TRAUMA 5.11c 7m 14th May 2009
This variation on Petra provides a lip trip above the cave entrance. Start up Petra and move left along the lip into Barotrauma. Reverse this to the no-hands ledge at sea-level.
PET ENEMA 5.11c 2010
Start up Petra. Reverse Ordering Enema Trauma to finish with an Enema of the State.
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