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Clarence Cove
This and the neighbouring Hogfish Bay are the most exciting deep water solo venues in Bermuda
West of the quay in Clarence Cove are some man made caves which end on Hogfish point from where many a fine night dive has been started. West again is Hogfish Bay which has an arch at its western tip.
The climbs lie below the stone pinnacle, in the bay formed between the quay and the point. Here you will find a massive roof system bounded by the twin ribs of Lara Croft and Romantic Pottery. The routes are safe at any state of the tide.
The crux of Ambergris
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AMBERGRIS 5.10d 50m sea-level traverse 15th October 2006
A very good DWS traverse. Start from the cave system gained via the steps at the point west of the quay in Clarence Cove. The cave system branches south and north. Take the north branch and climb through a window to gain the seaward face. Start traversing eastward (left) out of the mouth of the cave system and around an arete to less cramped territory. Continue eastwards around the overhanging rib of Romantic Pottery to gain ledges below massive overhangs. Continue eastwards below the rib of Lara Croft (crux) to easier ground and follow the traverse around and up to easy ground. There is an extended start option which commences traversing eastwards from the point to gain the cave system.
Fabian Gysi on the final traverse of Ambergris
Davie Crawford attempting Captain Caveman in Clarence Cove.
Davie Crawford gets clubbed by Captain Caveman.
CAPTAIN CAVEMAN 5.11a 5m Davie Crawford 19th September 2008
Right of Petra is a large horizontal roof. Below the roof is a port hole which accesses the main cave.
Start in the west side of the port hole. Climb the very steep, undercut rib to an obvious impasse at the horizontal roof. Using caveman powers, thug your way over the roof and finish to the cheers of the Teen Angels (Brenda, Dee Dee & Taffy). 2nd and 3rd and 4th ascents by Grant Farquhar, Davie Crawford and Fabian Gysi 20th September 2008
PETRA 5.11c 7m Fabian Gysi 30th August 2008
Tackles the right hand side of the cave entrance. Gain ledges under the west side of the cave from the cave itself. Climb diagonally leftwards on steep ground above the cave to finish via a bonsai tree above the mouth of the cave.
2nd ascent 3rd Sep 2008
Fabian Gysi on Petra
BAROTRAUMA 5.11a 7m 7th November 2006
Strenuous climbing through the ceiling above the cave exit. Start as for Ambergris and follow this to a no hands rest on the arete. Reverse back along the traverse to the mouth of the cave. Make strenuous moves rightwards through horizontal territory above the mouth of the caves to a precarious top out.
The first ascent of Barotrauma
A very good DWS traverse. Start from the cave system gained via the steps at the point west of the quay in Clarence Cove. The cave system branches south and north. Take the north branch and climb through a window to gain the seaward face. Start traversing eastward (left) out of the mouth of the cave system and around an arete to less cramped territory. Continue eastwards around the overhanging rib of Romantic Pottery to gain ledges below massive overhangs. Continue eastwards below the rib of Lara Croft (crux) to easier ground and follow the traverse around and up to easy ground. There is an extended start option which commences traversing eastwards from the point to gain the cave system.
Fabian Gysi on the final traverse of Ambergris
Davie Crawford attempting Captain Caveman in Clarence Cove.
Davie Crawford gets clubbed by Captain Caveman.
CAPTAIN CAVEMAN 5.11a 5m Davie Crawford 19th September 2008
Right of Petra is a large horizontal roof. Below the roof is a port hole which accesses the main cave.
Start in the west side of the port hole. Climb the very steep, undercut rib to an obvious impasse at the horizontal roof. Using caveman powers, thug your way over the roof and finish to the cheers of the Teen Angels (Brenda, Dee Dee & Taffy). 2nd and 3rd and 4th ascents by Grant Farquhar, Davie Crawford and Fabian Gysi 20th September 2008
PETRA 5.11c 7m Fabian Gysi 30th August 2008
Tackles the right hand side of the cave entrance. Gain ledges under the west side of the cave from the cave itself. Climb diagonally leftwards on steep ground above the cave to finish via a bonsai tree above the mouth of the cave.
2nd ascent 3rd Sep 2008
Fabian Gysi on Petra
BAROTRAUMA 5.11a 7m 7th November 2006
Strenuous climbing through the ceiling above the cave exit. Start as for Ambergris and follow this to a no hands rest on the arete. Reverse back along the traverse to the mouth of the cave. Make strenuous moves rightwards through horizontal territory above the mouth of the caves to a precarious top out.
The first ascent of Barotrauma
ENEMA OF THE STATE 5.10b 7m 24th October 2006
Start as for Ambergris. Follow the traverse out past the mouth of the cave to the no hands rest on the arete. Turn the arete and follow your nose up the easiest line in the pale overhanging orange streaked wall on massive incut jugs to a niche and the top.
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GANDHI ON CRACK 5.10d 7m 10th September 2008
An eliminate taking the grey overhanging wall between the rib of Romantic Pottery and the wall plugged by Enema of the State. From the base of the rib of Romantic Pottery step right and climb steeply up on grey pockety rock getting progressively harder until a horizontal break and hand jam is attained just below the top. Summon the power of Gandhi after hitting his crackpipe and levitate to the top.
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ROMANTIC POTTERY 5.10c 7m March 2003
Follow Ambergris eastwards for 30m to an overhanging rib with roofs to the left. Climb steeply up the rib staying left of the obvious rock scar to join the finishing moves of Atlantis.
Follow Ambergris eastwards for 30m to an overhanging rib with roofs to the left. Climb steeply up the rib staying left of the obvious rock scar to join the finishing moves of Atlantis.
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Tristan DeSilva pulls a big hold off Romantic Pottery
LARA CROFT 5.11a 7m 18th October 2006
A perfect DWS route. Good rock above deep water with the crux at the very top. Named because it is feisty and gymnastic with big jugs. This brilliant line takes the left hand twin pillar in the bay. Start by reversing the final section of Ambergris to a cave and ledge just before the pillar. Fight onto the front of the pillar before licking the final groove into submission. Safe.
Fabian Gysi preparing to enter the groove of Lara Croft.
A perfect DWS route. Good rock above deep water with the crux at the very top. Named because it is feisty and gymnastic with big jugs. This brilliant line takes the left hand twin pillar in the bay. Start by reversing the final section of Ambergris to a cave and ledge just before the pillar. Fight onto the front of the pillar before licking the final groove into submission. Safe.
Fabian Gysi preparing to enter the groove of Lara Croft.
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LEUKOSIA 5.11d 7m 15th August 2008
This route answers the siren call of the white wall right of Lara Croft. Start from the bottom of Lara Croft (ooer missus!). Step right directly above the crux of Ambergris to climb the steep wall on good but spaced pockets to a shake out on the traverse of White Guilt. Follow this leftwards to finish up Lara Croft.
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LATS LACTIC OCEAN 5.12a 10m 9th Sep 2008
This route offers no new climbing but gives the most sustained link up on the wall. Start as for Leukosia then reverse White Guilt into Song to the Siren. Continue along this to finish up Atlantis.
Nick Strong attempts to seduce Lara Croft
Nick Strong grappling with Lara Croft's jugs before being rejected
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SONG TO THE SIREN 5.11c 7m 27th July 2008
An indirect extended start to the classic line of Atlantis.Reverse the final section of Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the left hand side of the deepest cave, climb through the roof to gain a shake out at two deep pockets over the lip. Traverse horizontally rightwards to gain the niche of Atlantis and finish up this.
Bryan Caldwell tries his luck with Lara
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WHITE GUILT 5.11d 7m 9th August 2008
Excellent climbing linking the start of Song to the Siren to the finish of Lara Croft. From the deep pockets traverse leftwards to join Lara Croft just before the crux.
Ward Byrum on Atlantis. Photo Alex Hammond
ATLANTIS 5.11b 7m 21st October 2006
Amazing climbing through stupendous horizontal territory. Reverse the final section of Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the right hand side of the deepest cave make long moves up to a niche. Climb rightwards out of this with difficulty to a good hold and step right to a semi-rest. Pull directly through the final overhang to the consternation of the BBQ makers above.
Amazing climbing through stupendous horizontal territory. Reverse the final section of Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the right hand side of the deepest cave make long moves up to a niche. Climb rightwards out of this with difficulty to a good hold and step right to a semi-rest. Pull directly through the final overhang to the consternation of the BBQ makers above.
Exiting the niche of Atlantis
DYNOWARD 5.12a 7m Ward Byrum 2007
A dramatic finale to Atlantis. Follow Atlantis to the good hold where it goes right under the final ceiling. Instead of moving right, leap wildly through the roof to a good hold on the lip followed by an horrendous mantelshelf.
First and subsequent numerous ascents by Ward. First non Ward ascent by Grant Farquhar, 6th Aug 2008
Video of a Ward ascent with a... 'variation finish' here-
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23422843@N02/2744952811/
Video of a Ward ascent with a... 'variation finish' here-
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23422843@N02/2744952811/
Another Video of Atlantis and Dynoward here
A shark's eye view of Ward Byrum heading for the Dynoward finish to Atlantis
BATHOS PARTY 5.11b 7m 27th March 2008
Start as for Atlantis but continue along the traverse past the start of this to ledges beneath the next cave which is bounded on the right by the overhanging rib of Romantic Pottery. Directly above is the ceiling below the final traverse of Atlantis which has a flange hold in the underside. Climb steeply on big jugs to grasp the flange hold and use this to gain the lip of the roof. Rock over onto the wall above to join Atlantis and finish as for this.
A shark's eye view of Ward Byrum heading for the Dynoward finish to Atlantis
BATHOS PARTY 5.11b 7m 27th March 2008
Start as for Atlantis but continue along the traverse past the start of this to ledges beneath the next cave which is bounded on the right by the overhanging rib of Romantic Pottery. Directly above is the ceiling below the final traverse of Atlantis which has a flange hold in the underside. Climb steeply on big jugs to grasp the flange hold and use this to gain the lip of the roof. Rock over onto the wall above to join Atlantis and finish as for this.
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