Deep Bay itself has a lot of rock but unfortunately the water under most of it is very shallow.There are two DWS venues here. The first area is Full Fathom Five Buttress which constitutes the steep white buttress of good rock at the western point of Deep Bay. The second venue is Low Pressure Wall which is found East of the steps into Deep Bay.
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FULL FATHOM FIVE BUTTRESS
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Walk down from Admiralty Park above to gain the detached promontory adjacent to the white buttress. There is a prominent overhanging arete in the middle of the buttress. The water underneath is five fathoms deep.
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FULL FATHOM FIVE TEN 5.10a 35m traverse
This excellent deep water solo provides the best introduction to DWS in Admiralty Park. It takes the easiest line traversing the white buttress. The water is deep and the rock is good. Climb down the groove in the east side of the promontory (stainless steel bolt at the top) to sea level. Traverse eastwards at sea level on amazing honeycombed rock to an impasse at a deep cave. Climb up and over the lip of the cave to gain a resting place at sea level on the other side. Climb up and leftwards to pass the overhanging arete at mid-height (crux). Continue leftwards along the shelf to gain easy ground and a path to the top. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford, 27th October, 2008
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Jonny Pearson leaving the Full Fathom Five Ten traverse to start up Deep Down In Dis Custard (photo Grant Farquhar)
.DEEP THROAT 5.9 8mFollow Full Fathom Five Ten to the impasse before the deep cave. Step back right and climb the arete to the top.
Ward Byrum and Nick Strong, 2005
.DEEP DOWN IN DIS CUSTARD 5.10c 8m
Follow Full Fathom Five Ten to the impasse before the deep cave. Climb the steep white streak right of the cave and left of the arete to the jutting overhang and a spicy top out.
Grant Farquhar 23rd March, 2009
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Davie Crawford attempting Deep Down In Dis Custard (photo Grant Farquhar)
DEEP FRIED MARS BAR 5.7 8m
Follow Full Fathom Five Ten to the rest before the arete. Climb the white streak left of the cave past a prominent mars bar shaped pocket to the tree above.
Grant Farquhar 9th July, 2009
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DEEP IN DIS PEAR 5.10d 8m
Follow Full Fathom Five Ten to the rest before the arete. Traverse left to the base of the arete at sea level. Climb the tricky arete with continued interest to the little pinnacle on top. Grant Farquhar 27th October, 2008
BALLS DEEP 5.9 8m
Start from the water. Climb the wall left of the arete to the half-height ledge and junction with Full Fathom Five Ten. Continue directly to the top.
Nick Strong and Ward Byrum, 2005
LOW PRESSURE WALL
This crag is situated on the east side of Deep Bay and is best accessed from the steps leading down into Deep Bay from the bus stop on North Shore Road. From the base of the steps swim eastwards for approximately 200 yds to a dry ledge at the base of concrete steps. All the routes are accessed via the traverse of Hurricane Force or by swimming. The land above the crag is private, please do not top out through the bushes. Jump off into deep water.
HURRICANE FORCE 5.8 60m sea level traverse
From the concrete steps traverse eastwards at sea level at the base of the steep crag and above deep water to gain a dry ledge in the cave at the eastern extremity of the crag. Mostly above deep water but there is the odd ledge and reef to beware. Grant Farquhar 19/8/9
CYCLONE CRACK 5.8 15m
The short, overhanging hairline crack on the right- hand side of this crag features an unpleasant bushwhacking section at its top- before continuing leftwards to the tree. Davie Crawford 25/9/9
TROPICAL DEPRESSION 5.9 15m
Follow Hurricane Force for 30m until below the large tree. Climb directly to the tree. Jump off. Grant Farquhar 19/8/9
BEAUFART SCALE 5.10b 15m
This very good route climbs directly up the gently overhanging wall via a distinctive triangular, jutting jug. Best climbed in a force 8 to 12. Follow the Hurricane Force traverse 3m to the left of Tropical Storm to a wall below a left facing niche corner and the triangular jug. A gusty finish on the pine needle- covered finishing ledge is guaranteed (try not to follow through). Jump off by the tree or continue to the top if your winds are favourable.
Davie Crawford 19th August 2009.
THE EYE OF THE STORM 5.10d 15m
Climbs through the scoop in the middle of the crag. Start 3m left of Beaufart Scale, right of the ledge underneath the big roof right of Shark Oil gained via Hurricane Force or a swim to the ledge. Climb steeply on good rock to the scoop. Make a perplexing and crucial mantelshelf move into the depression to gain a precarious no-hands rest in the eye of the storm. Continue on friable rock directly above to a no-hands rest right of the large thread in the break above. Most climbers can feel satisfied with jumping off from here. Those in search of further titillation can continue through the roofs above via some unexpected stalactites to stand on the very top of the crag. Jump off.
Grant Farquhar 19/8/9
SHARK OIL 5.10c 15m
Forecasts an ascent up the left arete of the crag which lies between caves at mid-height on either side. Follow Hurricane Force to ledges before the big steep cliff. Continue to the cave right of the left arete with a ledge underneath and step left to the ledge in the cave left of the arete (the finish of Hurricane Force). Gain the arete from the left and continue steeply to a no-hands ledge left of an obvious large thread in the break. Most climbers can feel satisfied with jumping off from here. The masochists can continue through the roofs above to stand on the very top of the crag. Jump off. Grant Farquhar and Davie Crawford 19/8/9