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| Version | User | Scope of changes |
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| Aug 24 2009, 8:30 PM EDT (current) | drevil | 1 photo added, 1 photo deleted |
| Aug 24 2009, 7:47 PM EDT | drevil | 136 words added, 26 words deleted |
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Harrington Sound is encircled by cliffs, and some great climbing is found in this area.
GAIJIN WALL
This area of very good white rock is in the North- West part of Harrington Sound, just East of the landmark of Abbot's Cliff.
Access- by boat, or a swim around 400m metres from the Trinity Church Road area to a rock island which faces a deep crack line up slabby rock.
VAYU 5.10c 8m Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 19th April 2009
This route tackles the attractive arete feature facing the rock island.
Swim from the rock island to the base of the snaking crack. Traverse leftwards from the crack to an overhung niche. Make a couple of steep moves out of the niche onto the arete and wall above. Cracking jugs lead to a fingery, technical finish up the immaculate headwall. Sticking strictly to the arete makes this route a little harder than the headwall version. Jump off or walk along the top rightwards to downclimb the snaking crack.
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NIU BI 5.10c 8m
A counter-diagonal to Vayu. Gain the wall left of the arete from the water. Climb up then right to join Vayu at good holds and a resting place. Continue rightwards on the lip of the overhang and finish up the right hand side of the arete. Grant Farquhar 23/8/9
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FUJIN 5.10b 8m Davie Crawford 19th April 2009
Follow Vayu onto the arete and traverse the Kamikaze Wall at around mid height taking the line of least resistance. Gain a sloping ledge and top out or jump off.
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NI SU YAO FANG PI 5.10c 8m
This route climbs directly out of the water at some obvious thin flakey holds in the left side of the wall left of the obvious arete of Vayu. Continue directly to join Fujin and then the top.
Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 23/8/9
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The next routes are right of the snaking crack.
AIKIJITSU 5.10c 8m Steve McGill 31st July 2009
Get yourself fired on to a bulge right in front of the island, about 8m left and around a corner from Yakuza arete. Make a wee note to try and jump clear of this bulging slab in the event of falling off. Set off confidently more or less straight up, tearing off loose shrapnel and exposing angry ants as you go. As the holds become rubbish near the top have a wee gander again at yon slab waiting to catch you. Finally, fight your way through some dead twiggery to top out.
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GWEILO 5.10c R 7m
The white groove left of the prow of Yakuza. Gain the ledge underneath from the water. Climb the groove to the mid-height ledge. Devilish bridging leads to the top. Jump off. Beware the evil ledges underneath as poor footwork could lead to an uncontrolled fall with risk of striking a ledge. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 23/8/9
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YAKUZA 5.10c 7m Davie Crawford 31st July 2009
Join the brotherhood with an intense initiation ceremony- a finger slicing ascent of this brilliant samurai- sharp prow 10m right of the crackline. Start left, traverse onto the arete sinking copious Sake before extorting success from the summit jug.
(2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 23rd August 2009)
KITSUNE 5.10b 7m Davie Crawford 23rd August 2009
The white- streaked, slightly overhanging wall just right of Yakuza gives good some worthwhile (and intricate) climbing.
MONKEY ISLAND (aka HALL'S ISLAND)
Access- by boat, or swim c.200m across the Northern part of the Harrington Sound. Continue round the Northern side of the island to a cove with a little rock island and a large roof.
Monkey Island is the eye-catching, craggy island in the Northern part of the Harrington Sound. A line of crags curve round from the North to the Northwest side.
Unfortunately, the rock is not as good as it looks.
![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/8phH83zmkZnTu4zDiXPvqg531546/GW800H600 "[Untitled]")
Davie Crawford on the FA of Tripitaka's Travels. Photo Grant Farquhar.
TRIPITAKA'S TRAVELS 5.9 50m Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 14th March 2009
This route starts from the little rock island in the cove on the north side of the island (a convenient spot to access all the Monkey Island routes listed here). Step off the rock onto the obvious foot rail of good white limestone and follow this from right to left. The crux involves negotiating a constricted roof at sea level and is much harder than the rest of the route. The footholds are good on this one but the handholds tend to be very fragile.
MONKEY MAGIC 5.10d 10m Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 14th March 2009
This tremendous route traverses the slabby white wall underneath the large, chossy roof in the buttress from left to right. A 5m swim from the rock island leads to the start at the left edge of the white wall. Balancy, technical moves on very small holds lead to enlightenment at the arete taken by Monkey Love. Finish up Monkey Love or jump off.
MONKEY LOVE 5.8 10m Grant Farquhar 14th March 2009
Takes the arete right of the large roof in the prominent north facing buttress. The rock is poor.
![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/4m7pqJvkXXS3L2eTRCxYyg533424/GW600H800 "[Untitled]")
Davie Crawford on the FA of Monkey Magic. Photo Grant Farquhar.
NIGHT RIDER 2
![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/Z7t41ogRDh2N87nPQkqlyA474087/GW800H533 "[Untitled]")
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This wall is to be found in the north-eastern part of Harrington Sound. It is just off vertical with excellent rock. Unfortunately the water underneath is too shallow for DWS. Beware.
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GAIJIN WALL
This area of very good white rock is in the North- West part of Harrington Sound, just East of the landmark of Abbot's Cliff.
Access- by boat, or a swim around 400m metres from the Trinity Church Road area to a rock island which faces a deep crack line up slabby rock.
VAYU 5.10c 8m Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 19th April 2009
This route tackles the attractive arete feature facing the rock island.
Swim from the rock island to the base of the snaking crack. Traverse leftwards from the crack to an overhung niche. Make a couple of steep moves out of the niche onto the arete and wall above. Cracking jugs lead to a fingery, technical finish up the immaculate headwall. Sticking strictly to the arete makes this route a little harder than the headwall version. Jump off or walk along the top rightwards to downclimb the snaking crack.
.
NIU BI 5.10c 8m
A counter-diagonal to Vayu. Gain the wall left of the arete from the water. Climb up then right to join Vayu at good holds and a resting place. Continue rightwards on the lip of the overhang and finish up the right hand side of the arete. Grant Farquhar 23/8/9
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FUJIN 5.10b 8m Davie Crawford 19th April 2009
Follow Vayu onto the arete and traverse the Kamikaze Wall at around mid height taking the line of least resistance. Gain a sloping ledge and top out or jump off.
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NI SU YAO FANG PI 5.10c 8m
This route climbs directly out of the water at some obvious thin flakey holds in the left side of the wall left of the obvious arete of Vayu. Continue directly to join Fujin and then the top.
Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 23/8/9
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The next routes are right of the snaking crack.
AIKIJITSU 5.10c 8m Steve McGill 31st July 2009
Get yourself fired on to a bulge right in front of the island, about 8m left and around a corner from Yakuza arete. Make a wee note to try and jump clear of this bulging slab in the event of falling off. Set off confidently more or less straight up, tearing off loose shrapnel and exposing angry ants as you go. As the holds become rubbish near the top have a wee gander again at yon slab waiting to catch you. Finally, fight your way through some dead twiggery to top out.
.
GWEILO 5.10c R 7m
The white groove left of the prow of Yakuza. Gain the ledge underneath from the water. Climb the groove to the mid-height ledge. Devilish bridging leads to the top. Jump off. Beware the evil ledges underneath as poor footwork could lead to an uncontrolled fall with risk of striking a ledge. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 23/8/9
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YAKUZA 5.10c 7m Davie Crawford 31st July 2009
Join the brotherhood with an intense initiation ceremony- a finger slicing ascent of this brilliant samurai- sharp prow 10m right of the crackline. Start left, traverse onto the arete sinking copious Sake before extorting success from the summit jug.
(2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 23rd August 2009)
KITSUNE 5.10b 7m Davie Crawford 23rd August 2009
The white- streaked, slightly overhanging wall just right of Yakuza gives good some worthwhile (and intricate) climbing.
MONKEY ISLAND (aka HALL'S ISLAND)
Access- by boat, or swim c.200m across the Northern part of the Harrington Sound. Continue round the Northern side of the island to a cove with a little rock island and a large roof.
Monkey Island is the eye-catching, craggy island in the Northern part of the Harrington Sound. A line of crags curve round from the North to the Northwest side.
Unfortunately, the rock is not as good as it looks.
Davie Crawford on the FA of Tripitaka's Travels. Photo Grant Farquhar.
TRIPITAKA'S TRAVELS 5.9 50m Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 14th March 2009
This route starts from the little rock island in the cove on the north side of the island (a convenient spot to access all the Monkey Island routes listed here). Step off the rock onto the obvious foot rail of good white limestone and follow this from right to left. The crux involves negotiating a constricted roof at sea level and is much harder than the rest of the route. The footholds are good on this one but the handholds tend to be very fragile.
MONKEY MAGIC 5.10d 10m Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 14th March 2009
This tremendous route traverses the slabby white wall underneath the large, chossy roof in the buttress from left to right. A 5m swim from the rock island leads to the start at the left edge of the white wall. Balancy, technical moves on very small holds lead to enlightenment at the arete taken by Monkey Love. Finish up Monkey Love or jump off.
MONKEY LOVE 5.8 10m Grant Farquhar 14th March 2009
Takes the arete right of the large roof in the prominent north facing buttress. The rock is poor.
Davie Crawford on the FA of Monkey Magic. Photo Grant Farquhar.
NIGHT RIDER 2
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This wall is to be found in the north-eastern part of Harrington Sound. It is just off vertical with excellent rock. Unfortunately the water underneath is too shallow for DWS. Beware.
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HARRINGTON SOUND POST OFFICE
For both these DWS spots park beside the Harrington Sound Post Office and follow a path behind the building down to the shoreline.
EASTERN WALL
![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/7I7OZyiotLa1Fe8BegQVNw372711/GW800H387 "[Untitled]")
Harrington Sound Post Office Wall (East).
JOURNEY TO THE WEST 5.10c 20m (sea level traverse) Grant Farquhar 14th March 2009
This little gem traverses the wall to the point east of the post office. From the waterline below the post office walk eastwards on top of the cliff past the overhanging point until it is possible to climb down to sea level. Traverse west on amazing flowstone rock to an impasse before the point. Find a hidden but crucial 2 finger pocket at waist level in the stalagtite on the arete in order to turn the arete and gain easier ground. Finish directly on good rock to the trees above. 2nd ascent Davie Crawford July 2009.
![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/UWnwvOSU3DMLBmTg-AHYdw450508/GW800H600 "[Untitled]")
Davie Crawford finding the crucial pocket on Journey to the West. Photo Grant Farquhar.
![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/MkTI9IL33nAUaYlaXuAWIw482978/GW800H600 "[Untitled]")
Davie Crawford being denied access to the west. Photo Grant Farquhar.
POST OFFICE WEST
A short crag offering a few undistinguished routes.
Do not go into the garden of the house above. Jump off to descend.
The routes are described from left to right, facing into the crag. Swim to start all these routes.
The first feature described is a short vertical wall of red & white coloured limestone.
PIGSY 5.7 5m Davie Crawford March 2009
A boulder problem start getting out the water leads to the much easier red and white wall above.
NIPPON 5.10b 5m Davie Crawford March 2009
Start at the same point as Pigsy and follow a rightwards slanting line on pockets.
JUDO 5.10c 5m Davie Crawford 17th June 2009
The hollow, blocky grey roof right of Nippon provides some steep roof- wrestling moves on jugs to a crimpy finish up a short white groove.
Rightwards from the wall climbed by Pigsy are two more caves with sizeable, (but chossy looking) horizontal grey roofs. Right of these caves is a clean red and white wall. The next two routes climb lines on this vertical wall.
DRAGON KING 5.9 5m Davie Crawford March 2009
This fingery route follows a rising leftward traverse above the arch of the last cave to near its apex.
SANDY 5.7 5m Davie Crawford March 2009
This is the line of the thin crack that starts at the same point as Dragon King. The crux is getting out of the water.
TWIN MOORINGS CRAG
A short, slightly overhanging pocketed wall offering some bouldery routes on the way to Kamikaze Wall.
At the end of the Post Office West crag go past a small rock island to another one 20m further on with a white boat mooring on it. There is an identical mooring on shore just left of the crag. The water is deep enough at all tides.
BUSHIDO 5.9 5m Davie Crawford 20th May 2009
The blunt arete on the left gives some fingery climbing on honey-combed rock.
KARATE KID 5.10c 5m Davie Crawford 24th July 2009
The central line up the overhanging wall is fingery, leading to a slopey top out.
KATANA 5.7 5m Davie Crawford 20th May 2009
The knife edged arete at the right end of the wall.
KAMIKAZE WALL
Kamikaze Wall is the next venue in the Harrington Sound.
This excellent crag is situated in the Eastern Harrington Sound between Devil's Hole and Harrington Sound Post Office, in a secluded bay 50 West from Twin Moorings Crag.
It is without doubt the best crag developed so far in the Sound, and one of the best DWS crags in Bermuda.
Striking features of the area include the hanging wall and arete of Banzai, and the impressive 15 degree overhanging main white wall with an obvious, attractive finger crack on its right.
The crag is one of the highest DWS crags developed so far at 13m, and the length combined with the excellent limestone make for some of the most exciting routes of this style on the island.
The majority of the routes are safe above deep water. However, a submerged rock is close enough to the route Go Rin No Sho to require a warning (as mentioned in the route description).
Climb at your own risk. The authors of this wiki accept no responsibility for anything.
Access- a 200m swim from the Post Office or by boat.
SHOTOKAN 5.10a 25m
This good, pumpy route follows the natural line of a steeply overhanging, juggy handrail from the dock to the arete of Banzai. Make a step rightwards from the dock across a small gap onto a foot ledge leading onto the route. Grab the jugs and monkey for glory a few metres above the water to a welcome resting ledge.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009 (2nd ascent Josh Hill 18th June 2009)
SHOJO 5.8 7m
Climb the line of the blunt arete to a large whispering pine mid way along the route Shinto. Jump off.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009
BANZAI 5.9 13m
One of the very best easier DWS routes in Bermuda, this route offers superb, intricate pocket- picking up the vertical wall and hanging arete on the left side of Kamikaze Wall. Step off the a ledge and ascend diagonally rightwards up the wall via a million shallow pockets to white rock high on the arete. Top out and make a banzai jump into deep water.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009 (2nd ascent Josh Hill 18th June 2009)
KENDO 5.10d 13m
This very good route shares the same steep start with Go Rin No Sho and offers sustained, fingery pocket climbing up the bow- shaped groove line just left of centre on the main overhanging wall. Hard crux moves exiting the cave lead to the overhanging steep groove and wall above. Step left at a small bush and enter the upper groove system where balance is regained. Jump off into deep water.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009
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MISHIMA 5.11b 13m
Slightly eliminate but very worthwhile because of the excellent rock and climbing. Start as for Go Rin No Sho rightwards to gain the base of the overhanging wall right of the groove of Kendo. Climb the steep pocketed grey and white streaked wall directly to a tufa/flowstone feature left of the bonsai of Go Rin No Sho. Continue to a small cave with stalactites and then a horizontal break. Step right into the groove left of the final arete of Go Rin No Sho to finish. Grant Farquhar & Yukio Mishima 24/8/9
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GO RIN NO SHO 5.11b R 13m
3 star climbing up the centre of the white streak. Start from a dry no-hands rest on a ledge in the cave below the streak. Strenuous and perplexing moves lead out and rightwards onto the overhanging wall. Climb on pockets to gain a bonsai tree within a groove. Continue to the overhang and commit to the finish on the small arete above. Jump off the top to descend. Deep water apart from the large fire coral encrusted boulder that almost reaches the surface 6m back from the base. As this wall is 15 degrees overhanging it is not safe to make an uncontrolled fall from the top. Grant Farquhar & Miyamoto Musashi 23rd May, 2009
KAMIKAZE SEX NINJA 5.10d R 13m
The crack splitting the right hand side of the white streak. Start from a dry no-hands rest on a ledge to the right of the crack. Climb initially just right of the crack then the crack itself on good hand jams to the top. Walk leftwards (looking in) to the top of Go Rin No Sho and jump off into deep water. Deep water apart from the large fire coral encrusted boulder that almost reaches the surface 6m back from the base. As this wall is 15 degrees overhanging it is not safe to make an uncontrolled fall from the top.Grant Farquhar 23rd May, 2009
MUJINA 5.8 X 13m
The right hand groove/ crack line in the main crag is started from the same point as Kamikaze Sex Ninja. Falling is not advisable on this one due to its slabby nature. Jump off as per Go Rin No Sho.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009
KAMEOSA 5.7 9m
A wide and deep crack separates the little buttress taken by this route from the main crag. Start just right of the deep crack and make crux moves out the water onto the relatively easy wall above. Jump off into deep water.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009
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![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/ZjPoDg8KXcR8xqVQ0yOivA506393/GW800H533 "[Untitled]")
Kamikaze Wall topo
CERTAIN DEATH CRAG
Certain Death crag is found just South West of My Lord's Bay in the Western side of Harrington Sound. Just one route has been climbed here so far- for obvious reasons. The (X) rating indicates a very serious (and possibly life threatening) danger element to the climbing.
CERTAIN DEATH 5.10b (X) 8m Steve McGill 31st July 2009
Let the allure of this great looking, touch- me- big- boy, overhanging lay back hand crack out- weigh the fact that the water is 4 foot deep and rocky below. Just follow that sweet crevice straight up, laying back this way and that alternately. Half way up stop and make a note to belly flop in the event of a ping- that would maybe save you. On you go, carry on up, no stop, whats that noise? It's the frenzied barking of not one but two Alsation attack dogs. The dogs are a good 30m away and can't see you- yet. Your friends can distract them from just off shore. Make for the top and beat your chest several times. Fight your way rightwards through thick jaggy bushes and sloping pine needle footing until you reach a low enough point to jump in without hitting too hard. Finally, taunt the dogs from the safety of the boat and and also any friends that are just too gay to do Certain death!
COCKROACH ISLAND
Cockroach Island describes a collection of rock island boulders lying below the imposing Abbott's Cliff. The boulders used to be part of the main face of Abbott's Cliff, before detaching themselves in the mists of time for some of the best rock trundles ever seen in Bermuda.
The climbing here is on the triangular South face of the main block which rises 8m out of the Sound like a Mayan pyramid.
It offers some pleasant and occasionally plain dangerous off- vertical problems on small positive finger edges.
This great little crag is part of a nature reserve so it is essential not to damage any rock or plant life.
The (R) rating indicates that these routes have shallow water under them, with serious injury a possibility in the event of an uncontrolled fall.
HUEVOS GRANDES 5.7 (R) 6m Steve McGill 31st July 2009
Juke out the water centre of the boulder and head left for two pure gallus, nanbos shaped holes. Gingerly put your entire hand in the hole like Flash Gordon fronting off Eagle Man with that alien- filled moon rock thing. Enjoy the use of the long thin ledges and a juggy top out. Bob's your uncle. Avoid roaming conches as you return to the sea.
TRES GRINGOS LOCOS 5.7 (R) 7m Davie Crawford 31st July 2009
Overcrowd your tiny, dangerously under- equipped, thirty dollar, two man inflatable and navigate with your essential cargo of beer and fags for a stealth mission over miles of open, deep sea to the distant pyramid of Chichen Itza. Pulling out of the water taking a deep drag on a Marlboro, follow a zig- zagging natural line up the centre of the face balancing a Corona Extra in your free hand. Pay homage to the god Quatzequatl as you arrive in a drunken state part- way up the summit arete.
ABAHO LOS PANTALONES 5.10a (R) 8m Steven McGill 31st July 2009
Feel obliged to claim the highest peak unless, of course, you're a big Jessie. Seek out the golden nub of a five inch wide tree stump on the right hand side of the towering face. Sacrifice your chicken here. Wait for Quatzeqautl's sign to continue. Set off over a bevvy of insecure holds and hand gashers aloft the rock strewn shallow waters. Top out and receive a beam of light from the parting skies. Or, alternatively, smack the sea bed whilst gripping onto the hold which broke off to spite you. (This route is very serious).
TRUNK ISLAND
Trunk Island is the large central island in the Harrington Sound.
It offers a Southern line of very small and undistinguished crags for those interested.
Access by boat.
ELEPHANT DUNG 5.7 4m Steven McGill 31st July 2009
You're here now, you might as well fire up the wee over hang/ arete to the left of an of eye catching sort of streaky thing. Climb up using your hands and feet, biff boff done. Now head off elsewhere or risk being a plamph.
LOOK AT THE SIZE OF MY TRUNK (ISLAND) 5.7 Davie Crawford 31st July 2009
On the right edge of this craglet is a nice little cove with very shallow water under it. The steep left arete is very hard (and unclimbed) but this route climbs an easier version up the line of the wall and arete, next to a small tree.
Unfortunately, the cliffs on the north side of Trunk Island (below) look promising from a distance but have poor rock and shallow landings.
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![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/hbcIchyHQHovqFm1GkNLBA337090/GW800H533 "[Untitled]")
For both these DWS spots park beside the Harrington Sound Post Office and follow a path behind the building down to the shoreline.
EASTERN WALL
Harrington Sound Post Office Wall (East).
JOURNEY TO THE WEST 5.10c 20m (sea level traverse) Grant Farquhar 14th March 2009
This little gem traverses the wall to the point east of the post office. From the waterline below the post office walk eastwards on top of the cliff past the overhanging point until it is possible to climb down to sea level. Traverse west on amazing flowstone rock to an impasse before the point. Find a hidden but crucial 2 finger pocket at waist level in the stalagtite on the arete in order to turn the arete and gain easier ground. Finish directly on good rock to the trees above. 2nd ascent Davie Crawford July 2009.
Davie Crawford finding the crucial pocket on Journey to the West. Photo Grant Farquhar.
Davie Crawford being denied access to the west. Photo Grant Farquhar.
POST OFFICE WEST
A short crag offering a few undistinguished routes.
Do not go into the garden of the house above. Jump off to descend.
The routes are described from left to right, facing into the crag. Swim to start all these routes.
The first feature described is a short vertical wall of red & white coloured limestone.
PIGSY 5.7 5m Davie Crawford March 2009
A boulder problem start getting out the water leads to the much easier red and white wall above.
NIPPON 5.10b 5m Davie Crawford March 2009
Start at the same point as Pigsy and follow a rightwards slanting line on pockets.
JUDO 5.10c 5m Davie Crawford 17th June 2009
The hollow, blocky grey roof right of Nippon provides some steep roof- wrestling moves on jugs to a crimpy finish up a short white groove.
Rightwards from the wall climbed by Pigsy are two more caves with sizeable, (but chossy looking) horizontal grey roofs. Right of these caves is a clean red and white wall. The next two routes climb lines on this vertical wall.
DRAGON KING 5.9 5m Davie Crawford March 2009
This fingery route follows a rising leftward traverse above the arch of the last cave to near its apex.
SANDY 5.7 5m Davie Crawford March 2009
This is the line of the thin crack that starts at the same point as Dragon King. The crux is getting out of the water.
TWIN MOORINGS CRAG
A short, slightly overhanging pocketed wall offering some bouldery routes on the way to Kamikaze Wall.
At the end of the Post Office West crag go past a small rock island to another one 20m further on with a white boat mooring on it. There is an identical mooring on shore just left of the crag. The water is deep enough at all tides.
BUSHIDO 5.9 5m Davie Crawford 20th May 2009
The blunt arete on the left gives some fingery climbing on honey-combed rock.
KARATE KID 5.10c 5m Davie Crawford 24th July 2009
The central line up the overhanging wall is fingery, leading to a slopey top out.
KATANA 5.7 5m Davie Crawford 20th May 2009
The knife edged arete at the right end of the wall.
KAMIKAZE WALL
Kamikaze Wall is the next venue in the Harrington Sound.
This excellent crag is situated in the Eastern Harrington Sound between Devil's Hole and Harrington Sound Post Office, in a secluded bay 50 West from Twin Moorings Crag.
It is without doubt the best crag developed so far in the Sound, and one of the best DWS crags in Bermuda.
Striking features of the area include the hanging wall and arete of Banzai, and the impressive 15 degree overhanging main white wall with an obvious, attractive finger crack on its right.
The crag is one of the highest DWS crags developed so far at 13m, and the length combined with the excellent limestone make for some of the most exciting routes of this style on the island.
The majority of the routes are safe above deep water. However, a submerged rock is close enough to the route Go Rin No Sho to require a warning (as mentioned in the route description).
Climb at your own risk. The authors of this wiki accept no responsibility for anything.
Access- a 200m swim from the Post Office or by boat.
SHOTOKAN 5.10a 25m
This good, pumpy route follows the natural line of a steeply overhanging, juggy handrail from the dock to the arete of Banzai. Make a step rightwards from the dock across a small gap onto a foot ledge leading onto the route. Grab the jugs and monkey for glory a few metres above the water to a welcome resting ledge.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009 (2nd ascent Josh Hill 18th June 2009)
SHOJO 5.8 7m
Climb the line of the blunt arete to a large whispering pine mid way along the route Shinto. Jump off.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009
BANZAI 5.9 13m
One of the very best easier DWS routes in Bermuda, this route offers superb, intricate pocket- picking up the vertical wall and hanging arete on the left side of Kamikaze Wall. Step off the a ledge and ascend diagonally rightwards up the wall via a million shallow pockets to white rock high on the arete. Top out and make a banzai jump into deep water.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009 (2nd ascent Josh Hill 18th June 2009)
KENDO 5.10d 13m
This very good route shares the same steep start with Go Rin No Sho and offers sustained, fingery pocket climbing up the bow- shaped groove line just left of centre on the main overhanging wall. Hard crux moves exiting the cave lead to the overhanging steep groove and wall above. Step left at a small bush and enter the upper groove system where balance is regained. Jump off into deep water.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009
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MISHIMA 5.11b 13m
Slightly eliminate but very worthwhile because of the excellent rock and climbing. Start as for Go Rin No Sho rightwards to gain the base of the overhanging wall right of the groove of Kendo. Climb the steep pocketed grey and white streaked wall directly to a tufa/flowstone feature left of the bonsai of Go Rin No Sho. Continue to a small cave with stalactites and then a horizontal break. Step right into the groove left of the final arete of Go Rin No Sho to finish. Grant Farquhar & Yukio Mishima 24/8/9
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GO RIN NO SHO 5.11b R 13m
3 star climbing up the centre of the white streak. Start from a dry no-hands rest on a ledge in the cave below the streak. Strenuous and perplexing moves lead out and rightwards onto the overhanging wall. Climb on pockets to gain a bonsai tree within a groove. Continue to the overhang and commit to the finish on the small arete above. Jump off the top to descend. Deep water apart from the large fire coral encrusted boulder that almost reaches the surface 6m back from the base. As this wall is 15 degrees overhanging it is not safe to make an uncontrolled fall from the top. Grant Farquhar & Miyamoto Musashi 23rd May, 2009
KAMIKAZE SEX NINJA 5.10d R 13m
The crack splitting the right hand side of the white streak. Start from a dry no-hands rest on a ledge to the right of the crack. Climb initially just right of the crack then the crack itself on good hand jams to the top. Walk leftwards (looking in) to the top of Go Rin No Sho and jump off into deep water. Deep water apart from the large fire coral encrusted boulder that almost reaches the surface 6m back from the base. As this wall is 15 degrees overhanging it is not safe to make an uncontrolled fall from the top.Grant Farquhar 23rd May, 2009
MUJINA 5.8 X 13m
The right hand groove/ crack line in the main crag is started from the same point as Kamikaze Sex Ninja. Falling is not advisable on this one due to its slabby nature. Jump off as per Go Rin No Sho.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009
KAMEOSA 5.7 9m
A wide and deep crack separates the little buttress taken by this route from the main crag. Start just right of the deep crack and make crux moves out the water onto the relatively easy wall above. Jump off into deep water.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009
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Kamikaze Wall topo
CERTAIN DEATH CRAG
Certain Death crag is found just South West of My Lord's Bay in the Western side of Harrington Sound. Just one route has been climbed here so far- for obvious reasons. The (X) rating indicates a very serious (and possibly life threatening) danger element to the climbing.
CERTAIN DEATH 5.10b (X) 8m Steve McGill 31st July 2009
Let the allure of this great looking, touch- me- big- boy, overhanging lay back hand crack out- weigh the fact that the water is 4 foot deep and rocky below. Just follow that sweet crevice straight up, laying back this way and that alternately. Half way up stop and make a note to belly flop in the event of a ping- that would maybe save you. On you go, carry on up, no stop, whats that noise? It's the frenzied barking of not one but two Alsation attack dogs. The dogs are a good 30m away and can't see you- yet. Your friends can distract them from just off shore. Make for the top and beat your chest several times. Fight your way rightwards through thick jaggy bushes and sloping pine needle footing until you reach a low enough point to jump in without hitting too hard. Finally, taunt the dogs from the safety of the boat and and also any friends that are just too gay to do Certain death!
COCKROACH ISLAND
Cockroach Island describes a collection of rock island boulders lying below the imposing Abbott's Cliff. The boulders used to be part of the main face of Abbott's Cliff, before detaching themselves in the mists of time for some of the best rock trundles ever seen in Bermuda.
The climbing here is on the triangular South face of the main block which rises 8m out of the Sound like a Mayan pyramid.
It offers some pleasant and occasionally plain dangerous off- vertical problems on small positive finger edges.
This great little crag is part of a nature reserve so it is essential not to damage any rock or plant life.
The (R) rating indicates that these routes have shallow water under them, with serious injury a possibility in the event of an uncontrolled fall.
HUEVOS GRANDES 5.7 (R) 6m Steve McGill 31st July 2009
Juke out the water centre of the boulder and head left for two pure gallus, nanbos shaped holes. Gingerly put your entire hand in the hole like Flash Gordon fronting off Eagle Man with that alien- filled moon rock thing. Enjoy the use of the long thin ledges and a juggy top out. Bob's your uncle. Avoid roaming conches as you return to the sea.
TRES GRINGOS LOCOS 5.7 (R) 7m Davie Crawford 31st July 2009
Overcrowd your tiny, dangerously under- equipped, thirty dollar, two man inflatable and navigate with your essential cargo of beer and fags for a stealth mission over miles of open, deep sea to the distant pyramid of Chichen Itza. Pulling out of the water taking a deep drag on a Marlboro, follow a zig- zagging natural line up the centre of the face balancing a Corona Extra in your free hand. Pay homage to the god Quatzequatl as you arrive in a drunken state part- way up the summit arete.
ABAHO LOS PANTALONES 5.10a (R) 8m Steven McGill 31st July 2009
Feel obliged to claim the highest peak unless, of course, you're a big Jessie. Seek out the golden nub of a five inch wide tree stump on the right hand side of the towering face. Sacrifice your chicken here. Wait for Quatzeqautl's sign to continue. Set off over a bevvy of insecure holds and hand gashers aloft the rock strewn shallow waters. Top out and receive a beam of light from the parting skies. Or, alternatively, smack the sea bed whilst gripping onto the hold which broke off to spite you. (This route is very serious).
TRUNK ISLAND
Trunk Island is the large central island in the Harrington Sound.
It offers a Southern line of very small and undistinguished crags for those interested.
Access by boat.
ELEPHANT DUNG 5.7 4m Steven McGill 31st July 2009
You're here now, you might as well fire up the wee over hang/ arete to the left of an of eye catching sort of streaky thing. Climb up using your hands and feet, biff boff done. Now head off elsewhere or risk being a plamph.
LOOK AT THE SIZE OF MY TRUNK (ISLAND) 5.7 Davie Crawford 31st July 2009
On the right edge of this craglet is a nice little cove with very shallow water under it. The steep left arete is very hard (and unclimbed) but this route climbs an easier version up the line of the wall and arete, next to a small tree.
Unfortunately, the cliffs on the north side of Trunk Island (below) look promising from a distance but have poor rock and shallow landings.
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