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Hogfish Bay
Hogfish Bay lies to the west of Clarence Cove and the climbing area can be seen from the point west of the quay in Clarence Cove where the steps and caves are. From there you look across Hogfish Bay to the western point of it which is distinguished by an arch. Topo at the bottom of this page.
TROUBLE AND STRIFE 5.10b 10m 17th August 2006
Walk down to the platform on the seaward side of the arch in Hogfish Bay. Looking eastwards is an obvious overhanging pink streaked arête with green water below, the line of Night Dive. Step off the platform and traverse the lip of the east side of the arch leftwards to a knee-bar rest on the landward arête. Continue traversing leftwards at mid-height to the base of a ragged pockety crack. Finish up this. Beware the patch of reef underneath certain parts of the traverse. Definitely one for a high spring tide. Can also be started as for the following routes through the arch before moving up to the higher traverse at the exit of the arch in which case it is less tide dependent.
The remainder of the routes start by traversing west to east (leftwards) through the arch on the landward side.
BONSAI PIPELINE 5.11a 10m 22nd August 2006
Traverses the entire wall from right to left taking the least line of resistance. All of the following routes initially start along this before exiting at various points along the traverse. . Traverse in from the landward side of the arch eastwards underneath and through the arch. Continue traversing along the shelf to a no-hands rest in a cave. Move left to a slot beneath the arête and a knee-bar rest. Climb up and leftwards on the lip of the overhang to a horizontal rail and shake-out. Step leftwards to a good rest at the Bonsai tree. The traverse now continues at this level before grovelling up onto a no-hands resting ledge. From here it is possible to follow the ledge system easily up and left to finish. Although this finish is loose and above a lower ledge system and is therefore not recommended. If you don’t fancy this finish then it is possible to jump off into deep water after the grovel onto the ledge system. The best finish however is to climb Pidgin Politics.
Claire MacLeod on the initial traverse of Bonsai Pipeline
CLARK KENT 5.10a 10m Paul Van Rensburg, 2003
Follow Bonsai Pipeline through the arch and step left around the arête before climbing the wall to the top. There is a patch of reef in the vicinity of the landing zone so it’s best to climb at high tide and avoid uncontrolled high dives.
MRS PEDERSEN 5.11a 10m 24th June 2006
This route climbs the wall to the right of Night Dive. Follow Bonsai Pipeline to the no-hands rest. Undercut the lip of the cave and make tricky moves into friable territory (crux). Continue past amazing pockets to the top out via a thank god tree branch.
2nd ascent Fabian Gysi, 2008.
The Pederson Cleaner Shrimp that lives in the anenome underneath the eponymous route
NIGHT DIVE 5.11c 10m February 2003
An absolute mega-classic, one of the original and best DWS in Bermuda. It takes the obvious overhanging pink streaked arête which has a spectacular finale. Traverse in from the landward side of the arch eastwards through the arch. Continue traversing along the shelf to a no-hands rest in a cave. Continue left to a slot beneath the arête and a knee-bar rest. Climb initially on the left side of the arête before moving on to the front. Have it! Safe at any state of the tide although you will touch down (softly) on the sandy bottom at low tide and it is probably best to avoid springs low tide. Just ask Julius Caesar.
The second ascent of Night Dive, 2003
The Pederson Cleaner Shrimp that lives in the anenome underneath the eponymous route
NIGHT DIVE 5.11c 10m February 2003
An absolute mega-classic, one of the original and best DWS in Bermuda. It takes the obvious overhanging pink streaked arête which has a spectacular finale. Traverse in from the landward side of the arch eastwards through the arch. Continue traversing along the shelf to a no-hands rest in a cave. Continue left to a slot beneath the arête and a knee-bar rest. Climb initially on the left side of the arête before moving on to the front. Have it! Safe at any state of the tide although you will touch down (softly) on the sandy bottom at low tide and it is probably best to avoid springs low tide. Just ask Julius Caesar.
The second ascent of Night Dive, 2003
ATLANTIC BIRDMAN 5.11d 10m 4th May 2008
A direct variation on Night Dive. Follow the parent route to the no-hands rest in the cave and continue to the knee-bar slot at the base of the arete. In the wall above the slot, on the right hand side of the arete is an obvious large circular pocket. Use the pocket to get established on the arete and continue up this to finish as for Night Dive.
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BLUE MEN OF THE MINCH 5.11c 9th July 2008
The right hand exit from the large circular pocket of Atlantic Birdman. Hit the pocket with your left hand before heading up rightwards to the thank god tree of Mrs Pederson. GINGER STEPCHILD 5.11c 10m 5th July 2006
The lefthand finish to Night Dive. Good but nevertheless beaten by the parent route. Follow Night Dive to the slot beneath the arête. Climb initially as per Night Dive and then follow the shallow groove in the left side of the arête all the way to the top.
2nd ascent 4th July, 2008
About to experience Tortura Del Agua prior to the first ascent
TORTURA DEL AGUA 5.12a 31st May 2008
Excellent and sustained. Follow Bonsai Pipeline to gain the shake out at the horizontal rail where Bonsai Pipeline goes left and Ginger Stepchild goes straight up. Climb diagonally leftwards to make a long reach for a horizontal slot in steep territory. Continue directly to sloping holds in the vicinity of a thin white streak and then the top.
Contemplating the top out on Narcosis
NARCOSIS 5.11d 10m 3rd July 2006
The scooped headwall left of the arête of Night Dive. Has a tricky crux. There is reef lurking underneath but it’s fine at mid to high tide. Follow Bonsai Pipline to the bonsai tree. From a good rest at the tree blast straight up the ridiculously overhanging white streak to a sketchy top-out.
About to experience Tortura Del Agua prior to the first ascent
TORTURA DEL AGUA 5.12a 31st May 2008
Excellent and sustained. Follow Bonsai Pipeline to gain the shake out at the horizontal rail where Bonsai Pipeline goes left and Ginger Stepchild goes straight up. Climb diagonally leftwards to make a long reach for a horizontal slot in steep territory. Continue directly to sloping holds in the vicinity of a thin white streak and then the top.
Contemplating the top out on Narcosis
NARCOSIS 5.11d 10m 3rd July 2006
The scooped headwall left of the arête of Night Dive. Has a tricky crux. There is reef lurking underneath but it’s fine at mid to high tide. Follow Bonsai Pipline to the bonsai tree. From a good rest at the tree blast straight up the ridiculously overhanging white streak to a sketchy top-out.
VERDIGRIS 5.11d 10m 10th April, 2008
Fantastic and exciting climbing. It takes the hanging mini white streak left of the broad white streak of Narcosis. Follow Bonsai Pipeline to the eponymous tree and a good rest. From the left side of the tree find some solid deep pockets and use these to commence a game of Russian Roullette with the Dirty Harry crimps in the friable rock which with a bit of luck will enable you to gain better holds in the white streak. Climb the white streak to the top. Do you feel lucky punk?
PIDGIN POLITICS 5.11b 10m 20th September 2006
Follow Bonsai Pipeline to the grovel onto the ledge, no-hands sit down rest amongst the pigeons. From the right hand end of the ledge head up and rightwards through some unbelievably friable territory. The previously interesting mantelshelf finish is now easier as some bonsai trees have grown within reaching distance of the top.
PIDGIN POLITICS 5.11b 10m 20th September 2006
Follow Bonsai Pipeline to the grovel onto the ledge, no-hands sit down rest amongst the pigeons. From the right hand end of the ledge head up and rightwards through some unbelievably friable territory. The previously interesting mantelshelf finish is now easier as some bonsai trees have grown within reaching distance of the top.
Davie Crawford going for the top out on Pidgin Politics
DEATH BY BONGO BONGO 5.11a 10m 9th May 2008
The low level traverse of the entire wall. Follow Bonsai Pipeline to the knee-bar rest of Night Dive. Climb down leftwards under the roof to look back out through the knee-bar slot from the inside. Crawl past the pigeons through a tunnel into the next cave. From the back of the cave climb the left wall outwards until it is possible to turn the left arete/roof and gain the outside wall. Continue traversing left at this level until it is possible to climb directly up to the ledge below Pidgin Politics. Best above mid-tide because of the reef below the final section. On the first ascent there was a recently savaged headless pigeon in the cave of Night Dive and a Portugese Man O'War directly underneath the ledge of Pidgin Politics. Decapitated pigeon Jellyfish soloing, the latest "extreme" sport?
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