John Smith's Bay

John Smith was obviously a climber because the best beach bouldering to be had in Bermuda is to be found tucked away in the left hand corner of this tranquil spot. The obvious roof system sweeps above a sandy landing from two pillars on the right hand side. The rock is incredibly sharp so watch your skin. In the summer, the beach may be busy with sunbathers all over the place, including underneath the bouldering. However, for most of the year the beach is deserted.

SAVE YOUR BREATH V2 2002
Start on the left hand pillar. Climb directly out to the lip via a large thread then follow the lip leftwards to the top. Superb.

MICROBUBBLES V2 2002
A variation on Save Your Breath. From the thread climb leftwards under the roof to finish as for the parent problem.

ROCK FEVER V2 2002
A nice little problem, sand level permitting. Sit down start in the very right hand corner. Climb out to the obvious juggy rail. Climb down leftwards on pockets to finish in a porthole feature at ground level. Difficult to get onto if the sand is high.

20 000 VOLTS V3 2002
A sustained link up. Start as for Rock Fever or from the RHS of the rail. Follow the rail leftwards to a no-hands rest on the first pillar. Continue along the lip on jugs to join Save Your Breath and finish along this.

DARK AND STORMY V9/Font 7b+ Dave MacLeod, 2004
The hardest problem on the island courtesy of Mr MacLeod. Takes a line through the roof above Rock Fever from right to left on the honeycomb holds, without using the back or the lip of the roof.

John Smith's Bay - Bermuda Rock Climbing Topo
Dave MacLeod sends Dark & Stormy


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