Mid-Ocean Club BoulderingThis is a featured page

There are many bouldering opportunities down the beach from Mid-Ocean beach club in Tucker’s Town.
The rock is excellent quality here and the area is a strong contender for having the best bouldering in Bermuda.
Unfortunately, the beach is private. Please be discreet. Head for what’s left of the arches and then walk west down to the end of the beach.
The problems are described from right to left.

Sex Scandal
Grant Farquhar on the first ascent of Sex Scandal V3/ V5

SEX SCANDAL V3/5
The overhanging arête facing back up the beach. Start on the right hand side of the arete below some obvious monos. Use crimps and smears to latch better holds on the arête. Climb this to jugs. The grade depends on the level of the sand. When the sand is very low an ankle snapping iceberg boulder emerges so watch out for it in case it is only just covered. Grant Farquhar, 7th October 2006. 2nd ascent Davie Crawford, 7th Feb 2009.

Mid-Ocean Club Bouldering - Bermuda Rock Climbing Topo
Davie Crawford attempting Sex Scandal

AD HOMINEM V1
The scoop on the left side of the arete. Low sand levels make this route excellent, quite highball and spicy! Well worthwhile, on superb rock. A classic at its grade!
Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 7th Feb, 2009
time lapse video here

Mid-Ocean Club Bouldering - Bermuda Rock Climbing Topo
Davie Crawford on Sex Scandal. Photos Grant Farquhar
.
SANDPIPER V1
The first of a trilogy of slightly sandy crack lines left of Ad Hominem. All three are much better at low sand level.
Davie Crawford 20th Feb, 2009.

PIEDPIPER V1
The adjacent crack line left of Sandpiper. Sandpiper and Piedpiper are interchangeable and finish at the same point. Davie Crawford 20th Feb, 2009.

BAGPIPER V1
The next one left. The shortest of the three and probably the best. Davie Crawford 20th Feb, 2009.
time lapse video here of FA

Trespasser's Cove
.
Trespasser's Cove
Charlotte Best on Straight Up The Cracks at Trespasser's Cove (photo Davie Crawford)

This secluded area of excellent quality rock lies just around the corner from the Sex Scandal area. It is accessible at low and mid tide (at high tide some wading is required).
The East side of the cove offers a 7m high overhanging wall of excellent quality limestone.
This venue was originally discovered by Bryan Caldwell and Ward Byrum, who ran the Olympic Club Climbing Gym.


Jonny Traverse
Johnny Pearson on the steep start to Trespasser's Traverse (V3) Photo Davie Crawford

ALL PROPERTY IS THEFT Highball V3 7m
The right hand problem on the amazing orange wall. Start left of the right arete below a large crozzly pocket. Climb steeply to gain the pocket. Flowstone pinches and a diagonal break lead to the finishing jugs. Scramble down and right to descend. Grant Farquhar 29th April, 2009
.
POWER TO THE PEOPLE Highball V4 7m
The central line provides good sustained powerful climbing. Start up the leftwards slanting diagonal crack for a few moves then pull out right to climb the central hanging arete to a sloping finish. Scramble down and right to descend. Beware the large boulder underneath. Grant Farquhar 13th May, 2009
.
TRESPASSER'S TRAVERSE (V3) 12m Davie Crawford 6 April 2009
This excellent boulder problem follows a natural, ascending (right to left) slash line across the lower part of the Trespasser's Cove wall. Start right of centre and set off left from the obvious crack line. A handful of strenuous moves along a rail of jugs lead to a niche. Leave the niche and follow the shelf of sloping hand holds above to a definite crux at the highest point of the traverse. Don't relax yet- there's more to come! Continue via cruel, fingery holds to the finishing ledge of the Straight Up the Cracks routes. Downclimb.
.
Trespasser's Traverse2
Davie Crawford at the crux of Trespasser's Traverse (photo Julie Crawford)

SANDMAN VS SPIDERMAN V4 15m
The venue for this battle is the low level traverse of the entire wall. The outcome is down to you. You will either be dangling like spidey or resembling sandman. Start on a no-hands resting ledge on the right arete where you can clean your shoes. Step down and left and follow the traverse line into the starting holds of Trespasser's Traverse. Continue leftwards below this to a rest in a cave. The next section is the crux and gives absorbing climbing on edges and pockets with some crucial heelhooks. When you get to the cracks, finish up the right hand one. Grant Farquhar 29th April, 2009
.
Trespasser's Traverse3
Davie Crawford nearing success on the FA of Trespasser's Traverse (photo Julie Crawford)
.
STRAIGHT UP THE CRACKS V1 4m
Twin overhanging cracks are found to the left hand side of Trespasser's Cove. Both offer similar styles of crack climbing (unusual for Bermuda) and yield to some laybacking. Continue to a ledge above, then downclimb or jump onto deep sand. These are better at low sand level
.
Crack 1
Charlotte Best on Straight Up The Cracks (photo Davie Crawford)



drevil
drevil
Latest page update: made by drevil , May 14 2009, 9:28 AM EDT (about this update About This Update drevil Edited by drevil

15 words added
5 words deleted

view changes

- complete history)
Keyword tags: None
More Info: links to this page
There are no threads for this page.  Be the first to start a new thread.