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St David's
THE GREAT HEAD
Warning and disclaimer on the fixed protection. This is not a climbing gym, climb at your own risk.
The sports climbs in Bermuda have been equipped with stainless steel expansion bolts and in-situ threads. In general the protection points are placed in the spots where the rock is the most reliable. However the nature of the limestone here varies and some of the placements are unavoidably in the softer rock and so the protection will not be as strong as it would be when placed in harder rock. The reliability of the anchors is therefore not guaranteed. In addition all in-situ protection is liable to deteriorate over time. The expansion bolts are prone to stainless steel corrosion. The threads are prone to wear and tear. The lifespan of these type of anchor in this location will only be about 1 to 2 years max and so it is important to visually inspect the condition of the anchors when climbing. We are planning to re-equip all expansion bolts with titanium glue-in bolts. Threads will need to be replaced every so often. Unless otherwise indicated, assume the threads date from the first ascent of the route. When routes are re-equipped it will be recorded in the wiki. Likewise please note any observations of dubious in-situ protection.
Sean Kelly and Tristan Desilva on the first Bermudian ascent of Bensalem. Photo Claudia
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THE ONLY GAY IN THE VILLAGE 5.10b 20m
Tackles the white streak in the arete right of the Bensalem cave. The handholds and footholds are very fragile in places but the protection placements are in sound rock. Mince past 3 bolts and 3 threads. Take the no-hands rest in the closet at the final thread before coming out to run it out up the pink streak in the immac headwall. Bolt and natural thread belays.
Grant Farquhar & Bryan Caldwell, 20th June 2008
Warning and disclaimer on the fixed protection. This is not a climbing gym, climb at your own risk.
The sports climbs in Bermuda have been equipped with stainless steel expansion bolts and in-situ threads. In general the protection points are placed in the spots where the rock is the most reliable. However the nature of the limestone here varies and some of the placements are unavoidably in the softer rock and so the protection will not be as strong as it would be when placed in harder rock. The reliability of the anchors is therefore not guaranteed. In addition all in-situ protection is liable to deteriorate over time. The expansion bolts are prone to stainless steel corrosion. The threads are prone to wear and tear. The lifespan of these type of anchor in this location will only be about 1 to 2 years max and so it is important to visually inspect the condition of the anchors when climbing. We are planning to re-equip all expansion bolts with titanium glue-in bolts. Threads will need to be replaced every so often. Unless otherwise indicated, assume the threads date from the first ascent of the route. When routes are re-equipped it will be recorded in the wiki. Likewise please note any observations of dubious in-situ protection.
The Great Head. Noun or adjective? You decide. Anyway, this is easily the biggest and most impressive cliff on the island. It is in a very spectacular location gazing east across the Atlantic towards The Azores and is set off by the guns of the battery above. The large rockfall visible in the picture occurred sometime between 2003 and 2006. Longtails do nest in many of the other cliffs in Bermuda but do not seem to favour this one. None of the routes described below have longtail nests on or them or in their vicinity. The nesting season is from April to October which are generally poor months for sports climbing anyway due to the high heat and humidity. Please stay well away from any nest sites during the nesting season.
Looking north over the Great Cave towards The Scarface and Nereids Wall
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BENSALEM CAVE
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From the gun battery find steps leading down to an old searchlight station above sea level at the south end of the cliff.
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BENSALEM 5.10d 20m
PROBABLY NOT SAFE TO CLIMB UNTIL RE-EQUIPPED
This excellent climb takes a spectacular lip trip above the sea cave in the south end of the cliff.Scramble across easy ledges to the base of the obvious white band of rock. Belay here on a new bolt and a thread amongst very poor rusty old bolts. Follow the rising white band of rock up and rightwards above the cave past 8 bolts to an in-situ belay at the top of the cliff. Either lower off and belay your second from the ledges on the other side of the cave or top out and belay from above. Take extra care with the large Damoclean flake at the last bolt. Don't let anyone stand directly underneath the lower-off when the route is being climbed in case this flake gets pulled off.
Grant Farquhar & Bryan Caldwell 8th March 2008
Second ascent and first Bermudian ascent by Sean Kelly & Tristan DeSilva, 2008
This excellent climb takes a spectacular lip trip above the sea cave in the south end of the cliff.Scramble across easy ledges to the base of the obvious white band of rock. Belay here on a new bolt and a thread amongst very poor rusty old bolts. Follow the rising white band of rock up and rightwards above the cave past 8 bolts to an in-situ belay at the top of the cliff. Either lower off and belay your second from the ledges on the other side of the cave or top out and belay from above. Take extra care with the large Damoclean flake at the last bolt. Don't let anyone stand directly underneath the lower-off when the route is being climbed in case this flake gets pulled off.
Grant Farquhar & Bryan Caldwell 8th March 2008
Second ascent and first Bermudian ascent by Sean Kelly & Tristan DeSilva, 2008
Sean Kelly and Tristan Desilva on the first Bermudian ascent of Bensalem. Photo Claudia
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THE ONLY GAY IN THE VILLAGE 5.10b 20m
Tackles the white streak in the arete right of the Bensalem cave. The handholds and footholds are very fragile in places but the protection placements are in sound rock. Mince past 3 bolts and 3 threads. Take the no-hands rest in the closet at the final thread before coming out to run it out up the pink streak in the immac headwall. Bolt and natural thread belays.
Grant Farquhar & Bryan Caldwell, 20th June 2008
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BATHSHEBA 5.11b 20m
The excellent left hand finish to The Only Gay in the Village has some pumpy climbing in a very spectacular position on the overhanging prow above the cave. Follow The Only Gay in the Village to the no-hands rest in the closet. ***** leftwards past 2 bolts and a thread to gain the bolt and fence belay above Bensalem.
Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford, 18th January 2009
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In the section of cliff between the Bensalem Cave and the Great Cave there are 3 caves at mid-height. The next route gains the curious little middle cave which has some old paraphenelia
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In the section of cliff between the Bensalem Cave and the Great Cave there are 3 caves at mid-height. The next route gains the curious little middle cave which has some old paraphenelia
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SMUGGLERS ROUTE 5.6 10m
Climb the runnel to check out the curious phone booth sized flowstone cave. Reverse the route to the ground. FA unknown.
Climb the runnel to check out the curious phone booth sized flowstone cave. Reverse the route to the ground. FA unknown.
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THE GREAT CAVE
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The next area is the massive central cave in the middle of the cliff. Approach from the south or north. Both directions require some 5.7 soloing in serious positions. If coming from the south it is possible to utilise the belay at the base of Bensalem to protect the short but steep and serious downclimb. Alternatively, abseil in from the belay at the top of Bensalem.
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Sean Kelly in The Crackhouse
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CRACKHOUSE 5.11c 20m
Get your fix by inhaling the left-hand line in the steep wall on the right hand side of the cave. Head near the obvious crack. Expect excessive consumption of white powder past 5 bolts and 6 threads to a 2 bolt and thread belay at a no-hands resting ledge on a plinth. The come down begins here.
Grant Farquhar & Sean Kelly, 6th April 2008. Ground Control from Eloise Pitts Crick, Katie Kent & Paul Van Rensburg.
Second ascent on-sight flashed in midsummer sauna conditions by Ward Byrum, 7th August 2008.
Re-equipped with marine grade stainless steel glue-in bolts on 17/10/9. Original threads still good and left in-situ. Would the next person up please transfer the lower offs on the belay from the old expansion bolts to the new glue-ins.
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Nearing the belay on the first ascent of Crackhouse
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The next area is the massive central cave in the middle of the cliff. Approach from the south or north. Both directions require some 5.7 soloing in serious positions. If coming from the south it is possible to utilise the belay at the base of Bensalem to protect the short but steep and serious downclimb. Alternatively, abseil in from the belay at the top of Bensalem.
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Sean Kelly in The Crackhouse
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CRACKHOUSE 5.11c 20m
Get your fix by inhaling the left-hand line in the steep wall on the right hand side of the cave. Head near the obvious crack. Expect excessive consumption of white powder past 5 bolts and 6 threads to a 2 bolt and thread belay at a no-hands resting ledge on a plinth. The come down begins here.
Grant Farquhar & Sean Kelly, 6th April 2008. Ground Control from Eloise Pitts Crick, Katie Kent & Paul Van Rensburg.
Second ascent on-sight flashed in midsummer sauna conditions by Ward Byrum, 7th August 2008.
Re-equipped with marine grade stainless steel glue-in bolts on 17/10/9. Original threads still good and left in-situ. Would the next person up please transfer the lower offs on the belay from the old expansion bolts to the new glue-ins.
t.
Nearing the belay on the first ascent of Crackhouse
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BOGEYMAN 20m 5.12c
This monster lurks under the right hand side of the cave. Start under the right hand equipped line in this steep section of the cliff. Climb past 8 threads and 4 bolts to the 2 bolt and thread belay. Grant Farquhar & Eloise Pitts Crick, 27th November 2008
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Equipping Bogeyman prior to the first ascent. Photo Davie Crawford.
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Central Cave topo
Equipping Bogeyman prior to the first ascent. Photo Davie Crawford.
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Central Cave topo
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THE SCARFACE
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The area of cliff to the right of the large white rock scar has one route.
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SCARFACE 30m 5.10c
You wanna play games? Okay, I'll play with you. You wanna play rough? Okay! Say hello to my little friend! The striking orange stalactite gives superb pumpy climbing ************! You think you can take me! You're gonna need a ******* army to take me, you hear! You **** with me, you ******' with the best! If you don't clip the 8 threads, you die, ************! Who put the threads in? Me, that's who! Who do I trust? Me! The large gun in the bunker 30m back from the top provides a belay which is literally bombproof ************! You got that? All I have in this world is my balls and my word, and I don't break 'em for no one. You understand?
Grant Farquhar, Davie Crawford & Tony Montana 18/10/9
Nereids Wall
THE SCARFACE
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The area of cliff to the right of the large white rock scar has one route.
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SCARFACE 30m 5.10c
You wanna play games? Okay, I'll play with you. You wanna play rough? Okay! Say hello to my little friend! The striking orange stalactite gives superb pumpy climbing ************! You think you can take me! You're gonna need a ******* army to take me, you hear! You **** with me, you ******' with the best! If you don't clip the 8 threads, you die, ************! Who put the threads in? Me, that's who! Who do I trust? Me! The large gun in the bunker 30m back from the top provides a belay which is literally bombproof ************! You got that? All I have in this world is my balls and my word, and I don't break 'em for no one. You understand?
Grant Farquhar, Davie Crawford & Tony Montana 18/10/9
Nereids Wall
The impressive vertical wall at the north end of the cliff. Access ledges at the base from steps leading down to the old searchlight station at the north end of the cliff. The Nereids were fifty sea nymphs who were the patrons of sailors and fishermen. They came to the aid of men in distress and were also the caretakers of the sea's rich bounty. Individually they represent various facets of the sea from salty brine to foam, sand, rocky shores, waves and currents. Together with the Tritons they form the retinue of Poseidon.
The routes are described from Right to Left.
The routes are described from Right to Left.
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XANTHO 25m 5.9
The obvious central groove gives a 3 star jugfest. Climb past 8 in-situ threads to bolt and fence belays at the top. It is possible to place additional natural thread runners en route if so desired. Eloise Pitts Crick & Grant Farquhar, 11th December 2008
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Grant Farquhar on the FA of Poseidon. Photo Davie Crawford.
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POSEIDON 25m 5.8
The left-most groove on the vertical section of Nereids Wall gives a truly brilliant route for all you sea nymphs. Start a few metres right of the roof (Nymphetamine), below an obvious direct line equipped with 7 in- situ threads. Steep moves passing a Bonsai tree lead to the eye- catching upper groove, with quality rock and interesting climbing all the way. Thank your gods for the solid thread and fence belay above (take 2 slings to arrange the belay).
Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 17th January 2009
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Grant Farquhar on the FA of Poseidon. Photo Davie Crawford.
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POSEIDON 25m 5.8
The left-most groove on the vertical section of Nereids Wall gives a truly brilliant route for all you sea nymphs. Start a few metres right of the roof (Nymphetamine), below an obvious direct line equipped with 7 in- situ threads. Steep moves passing a Bonsai tree lead to the eye- catching upper groove, with quality rock and interesting climbing all the way. Thank your gods for the solid thread and fence belay above (take 2 slings to arrange the belay).
Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 17th January 2009
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Grant Farquhar on the FA of Nymphetamine. Photo Julie Crawford.
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Grant Farquhar on the FA of Nymphetamine. Photo Julie Crawford.
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NYMPHETAMINE 25m 5.10d
Climbs the groove in the steep buttress of good rock above the bad step in the sea level platform. Climb past 4 threads through the bulge to a ledge. Take the final buttress directly past 2 threads to a thread belay on the edge of the wall. Scramble off rightwards.
Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 14th February 2009
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