Already a member?
Sign in
St David's
THE GREAT HEAD
Sean Kelly and Tristan Desilva on the first Bermudian ascent of Bensalem. Photo Claudia
THE ONLY GAY IN THE VILLAGE 5.9 20m Grant Farquhar & Bryan Caldwell 20th June 2008
Tackles the white streak in the arete right of the Bensalem cave. The handholds and footholds are very fragile in places but the protection placements are in sound rock. Mince past 3 bolts and 2 threads. Take the no-hands rest in the closet at the final thread before coming out to run it out up the immac headwall. Bolt and natural thread belays.
The next area is the large central cave in the middle of the cliff. Approach from the south or north. Both routes require some 5.7 soloing in serious positions. If coming from the south it is possible to utilise the belay at the base of Bensalem to protect the short but steep and serious downclimb. Alternatively, abseil in from the belay at the top of Bensalem.
Sean Kelly in The Crackhouse
CRACKHOUSE 5.11c 20m 6th April, 2008 Grant Farquhar & Sean Kelly
Get your fix on the left hand equipped line in the steep wall on the right hand side of the cave, climbing just left of the obvious crack. Hit the pipe past 6 bolts and 6 threads to a 2 bolt and thread belay at a no-hands resting ledge on a plinth. The come down begins here. Ground Control from Eloise Pitts Crick, Katie Kent & Paul Van Rensburg.
This is easily the biggest and most impressive cliff with some of the best rock on the island. It is in a very spectacular location gazing east across the Atlantic towards The Azores and is set off by the guns of the battery above. The large rockfall visible in the picture occurred sometime between 2003 and 2006. Longtails do nest in many of the other cliffs in Bermuda but do not seem to favour this one. None of the routes described below have longtail nests on or them or in their vicinity. The nesting season is from April to October which are generally poor months for sports climbing anyway due to the high heat and humidity. Please stay well away from any nest sites during the nesting season.
The first route takes a lip trip across the top of the sea cave in the south end of the cliff. From the gun battery find steps leading down to an old searchlight station above sea level at the south end of the cliff.
.
BENSALEM 5.10d 20m Grant Farquhar & Bryan Caldwell 8th March 2008
This excellent climb is Bermuda's most popular sports climb with a staggering 4 ascents. Scramble across easy ledges to the base of the obvious white band of rock. Belay here on a new bolt and a thread amongst very poor rusty old bolts. Follow the rising white band of rock up and rightwards above the cave past 8 bolts to an in-situ belay at the top of the cliff. Either lower off and belay your second from the ledges on the other side of the cave or top out and belay from above. Take extra care with the large Damoclean flake at the last bolt. Don't let anyone stand directly underneath the lower-off when the route is being climbed in case this flake gets pulled off.
Second ascent and first Bermudian ascent by Sean Kelly & Tristan DeSilva
Sean Kelly and Tristan Desilva on the first Bermudian ascent of Bensalem. Photo Claudia
THE ONLY GAY IN THE VILLAGE 5.9 20m Grant Farquhar & Bryan Caldwell 20th June 2008
Tackles the white streak in the arete right of the Bensalem cave. The handholds and footholds are very fragile in places but the protection placements are in sound rock. Mince past 3 bolts and 2 threads. Take the no-hands rest in the closet at the final thread before coming out to run it out up the immac headwall. Bolt and natural thread belays.
The next area is the large central cave in the middle of the cliff. Approach from the south or north. Both routes require some 5.7 soloing in serious positions. If coming from the south it is possible to utilise the belay at the base of Bensalem to protect the short but steep and serious downclimb. Alternatively, abseil in from the belay at the top of Bensalem.
Sean Kelly in The Crackhouse
CRACKHOUSE 5.11c 20m 6th April, 2008 Grant Farquhar & Sean Kelly
Get your fix on the left hand equipped line in the steep wall on the right hand side of the cave, climbing just left of the obvious crack. Hit the pipe past 6 bolts and 6 threads to a 2 bolt and thread belay at a no-hands resting ledge on a plinth. The come down begins here. Ground Control from Eloise Pitts Crick, Katie Kent & Paul Van Rensburg.
Second ascent on-sight flashed in midsummer sauna conditions by Ward Byrum, 7th August 2008
Sean Kelly working Crackhouse
Sean Kelly on the crux of Crackhouse
Sean Kelly working Crackhouse
Sean Kelly on the crux of Crackhouse
.
BOGEYMAN 20m 5.12c
This monster lurks on the right hand equipped line in this steep section of the cliff. Climb past 8 threads and 4 bolts to the 2 bolt and thread belay.
Grant Farquhar & Eloise Pitts Crick 27th November 2008
These routes have been equipped with stainless steel expansion bolts but get on them quick because rust never sleeps (or to be really pedantic, stainless steel corrosion never sleeps). The lifespan of this type of anchor in this location will only be about 1 to 2 years max and we are planning to re-equip with titanium glue-in bolts. Regardless of the nature of the anchor, the nature of the rock here is soft and so the bolts will not be as strong as they would be when placed in harder rock. The reliability of the anchors is not guaranteed. This is not a climbing gym, climb at your own risk.
These routes have been equipped with stainless steel expansion bolts but get on them quick because rust never sleeps (or to be really pedantic, stainless steel corrosion never sleeps). The lifespan of this type of anchor in this location will only be about 1 to 2 years max and we are planning to re-equip with titanium glue-in bolts. Regardless of the nature of the anchor, the nature of the rock here is soft and so the bolts will not be as strong as they would be when placed in harder rock. The reliability of the anchors is not guaranteed. This is not a climbing gym, climb at your own risk.
drevil |
Latest page update: made by drevil
, Saturday, 3:50 PM EST
(about this update
About This Update
Edited by drevil
18 words added 8 words deleted view changes - complete history) |
|
Keyword tags:
None
More Info: links to this page
|
