The Great Sound has several areas developed and access is by boat. Descent is by jumping.
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Long Island
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Long Island is in the Great Sound and you get a good view of the cliffs on the North side from the Hamilton to Dockyard ferry. The cliffs are small but reasonably good. Unfortunately most of the cliff has shallow water underneath. The two lines below have the deepest landings on the cliff.
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RAT TAIL 5.9 R 6m
Takes the white arete right of the prominent deep square cut cave. The water underneath is only 6 feet deep which means an "armchair" landing position needs to be used on entry to the water- otherwise you will hit the bottom.
Fabian Gysi, 13th October 2008
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Grant Farquhar on the 2nd ascent of Rat Tail (Fabian Gysi on top).
INEBRIATION ACROSS DE NATION 5.7 R 6m
The open groove left of the cave. As above, the water depth is no more than 6 feet on this one.
Davie Crawford, 13th October 2008
Somerset sea cliff. This cliff is the obvious white wall on the east side of Somerset Island. Beware the fire coral encrusted reef shelf underneath the routes which extends out for 1 to 3 feet under parts of this cliff. At low tide falling and landing on this will definitely cause injury. It is safe to jump off as it is easy to clear the shelf.
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.Fabian Gysi and Grant Farquhar on the first ascents of The Sound of Summer & Pontius Pirate.
Photo topo Davie Crawford.
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The routes are described left to right. Descent is by jumping off the top into deep water.
CLIMB OF THE CENTURY 5.10c 10m
Bermuda's 100th recorded route scales the white wall on the left hand side of the face. Grant Farquhar 4th June 2009.
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THE SOUND OF SUMMER 5.11a 10m
Climbs the left hand white streak on pockets, tricky at first but soon easing.
Fabian Gysi, 13th October 2008. 2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 4th June 2009.
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DEMENTED JESUS NUN 5.9 R 10m
Praise to Jesus! What line is it? Can't remember. Where does it go? Hallelujah! Forgotten. Might be the dark grey streak between the two white streaks, praise be to the lord, amen. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 4th June 2009
PONTIUS PIRATE 5.10d R 10m
Gain the right hand white streak from the right. Climb the immaculate pocketed white streak and left arete of the headwall above.
Grant Farquhar, 13th October 2008
.BIGGUS DICKUS 5.11b R 10m
The diwect finish to the above woute, Biggus Dickus wanks higher than any other in the gweat sound. Follow Pontius Piwate to where it steps left at the howizontal bweak. Climb the headwall diwectly above.
Gwant Farquhar 30th July 2009
.CRAIC HEADS 5.10b R 10m
This brilliant line climbs the right hand side of the immaculate white wall via the eye- catching crack at its top. Start just right of Pontius Pirate and climb the thin, technical wall (crux) to finish up the excellent layback crack above.
Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 4th June 2009.
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Grant Farquhar and Davie Crawford on the dynamic descent off the crag. Photo Julie Crawford
.ECHO BEACH
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This cliff lies just south of the above cliff and just north of Somerset Bridge. The main part of the cliff is not above water and has been top-roped by Josh and Adrian. Right of the main cliff is a DWS area of good rock. The landings are variable and snorkelling to inspect the depth is mandatory. There is also a nest of bees in the tufa area on the RHS of the cliff. c
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HAPPY CLAPPERS 5.9 5m
The overhanging arete/nose of rock towards the LHS of the DWS sector gives an excellent climb on big jugs above deep water. Grant Farquhar & Pitts Crick Massive 10/10/9l
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iffThe first ascent of Happy Clappers. Photo Jonathan Charles.
.Daniel's Island
Daniel's Island lies off the Western tip of Daniel's Head on Somerset Island.
The crag on this small, tree covered island faces directly across to the partly exposed wreck of the Vixen- a Royal Navy gun boat scuttled in 1896 to block enemy torpedo boats using a narrow undersea channel to access Dockyard.
We have included this crag on the Great Sound page as it will most likely be accessed on boat trips starting from the Sound area.
Highland Fling crag
DASHING WHITE SERGEANT 5.8 (R) 7m Steven McGill 30th July 2009
Spy from the crows nest a faint groove line on the left of the crag, thar she blows. Follow it directly up. There's a good six foot more or less of water to cavort about in under this route so there's no need to keek your slacks too badly. Be prepared for lots of nasty wee brittle finger loping holds and you won't be disappointed. The top out is sloping and similarly festooned with melt in your hand not in your mouth holds. There is fish a plenty here so stunning your dinner on the leap back isnae impossible.
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STRIP THE WILLOW 5.9 (R) 7m Grant Farquhar 30th July 2009
Don't forget your sporran whilst birling up the central white streak leading to the tree above.
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GAY GORDONS 5.6 (R) 7m Steven McGill 30th July 2009
There is a bushy wee tree in the middle of the crag, well this route goes up a bit of a corner about ten feet to the right of it. Nothing interesting enough about it to cut a memory through my inebriated state. So its more or less suck it and see I'm afraid. It might have had jaggy bits but I couldnae swear to it.
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Highland Fling Crag topo
Agar's Island
Agar's Island is the small craggy island on the North side of Two Rock Passage in the Great Sound.
It has a distinctive overhung cove with variable quailty rock under a shallow, rocky landing.
The routes are described left to right.
AGAR THE HORRIBLE 5.7 (R) 6m Davie Crawford 17th July 2009
The left hand crack line offers razor blade sharp unpleasant climbing. The name says it all.
SKOL 5.9 (R) 6m Steven McGill 17th July 2009
Whilst completely drunk, pull out of the water on the right hand side of the cove and traverse leftwards up a wall to a white arete and follow it to the top. Vallhala awaits the conqueror!