Warning and disclaimer on the fixed protection. This is not a climbing gym, climb at your own risk.
The sports climbs in Bermuda have been equipped with stainless steel expansion bolts and in-situ threads. In general the protection points are placed in the spots where the rock is the most reliable. However the nature of the limestone here varies and some of the placements are unavoidably in the softer rock and so the protection will not be as strong as it would be when placed in harder rock. The reliability of the anchors is therefore not guaranteed. In addition all in-situ protection is liable to deteriorate over time. The expansion bolts are prone to stainless steel corrosion. The threads are prone to wear and tear. The lifespan of these type of anchor in this location will only be about 1 to 2 years max and so it is important to visually inspect the condition of the anchors when climbing. We are planning to re-equip all expansion bolts with titanium glue-in bolts. Threads will need to be replaced every so often. Unless otherwise indicated, assume the threads date from the first ascent of the route. When routes are re-equipped it will be recorded in the wiki. Likewise please note any observations of dubious in-situ protection.
The Pump Room is a cave found just to the south of The Great Head in St David's. From the car park at the gun battery, find the purple brick path which eventually leads to the monument for those lost at sea. From the metal gate, follow the purple path for approximately 20 yards at which point it starts to gently curve to the left. Duck into the bushes to the right to find a path (not obvious). If you are doing some serious bushwacking then you are off route. Follow the path down through the jungle which appears to have been made by Hobbits past a fallen tree. Eventually the path starts to go back uphill. Around this point take a 90 degree left branch and follow this steeply downhill to clear the jungle. At this point you should be able to see The Pump Room straight ahead. Follow the path down some steps and a short but easy downclimb to ledges at sea-level.This cliff has the best rock of any climbing area so far developed in Bermuda and there is potential for some very hard routes. Watch out for the bee's nest at the far right of the cliff. The routes are described right to left.

AHAB 5.11b 10m
Very steep pumpy 3 star climbing on massive jugs, this line starts left of the mouth of the (very deep) cave and follows the pale streak to finish directly above the cave. Campus and heel-hook past five threads to an in-situ lower off. 11b but feels like 12b if the humidity is high. Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi, 24th April 2008
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Ahab. Photo by Davie Crawford.
. PUMP LOVIN CRIMINALS 5.11a 10m $250 fine
Climbs the wall directly. Start just left of the mouth of the cave below 3 threads. Climb to the left of the first thread and continue past 2 more to an in-situ lower off. You don't have the full tick unless you get busted by the police for speeding on the way to the Swizzle. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford, 21st Feb 2009
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![[Untitled] [Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/oWdJ36xWbNhmGQqIrHKubg354361/GW511H771)
Davie Crawford on the first ascent of Pump Lovin Criminals
. QUEEQUEG 5.8 10m 13th April 2008
This trad protected climb takes the buttress left of the cave on very good white rock. Start from the ledge below the cave. Traverse leftwards off the ledge with instant exposure to climb the white streak past a massive thread (good luck threading it). This route really needs some in-situ protection and we are on the case. At the top you can access the belays of the adjoining routes.
.THE PROW OF THE PEQUOD 5.9 12m
All aboard me hearties! This excellent route starts left of Queequeg and tackles a whale of a roof and the wall above. The start is accessed by a short scramble down to a ledge above the sea. Strenuous moves over the large horizontal roof allow access to the wall and prow above. Trend slightly leftwards, with increasing exposure, to finish in a superb position near the edge of the prow. 5 in-situ threads. Belay on the 'cosy' poop deck above on two in- situ threads. Abseil descent required unless you are game for the bushwhack from hell-
not recommended!Davie Crawford & Caroline Stockdale, 28 Feb 2009
.![[Untitled] [Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/WRUjZnhUuuz9QeSRqY7AJw413944/GW500H800)
Davie Crawford on the first ascent of The Prow of the Pequod
.PROW OF THE PEQUOD- RIGHT HAND START 5.6 10m. This easier, but still tremendous variation shares Queequeg's start. Take a deep breath, step left off the big ledge and follow the obvious right to left rising traverse onto the prow above. 5 in- situ threads. Continuous interest the whole way. Belay and abseil descent as above.
Davie Crawford, Charlotte Best & Caroline Stockdale, 28 Feb 2009.
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