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| Version | User | Scope of changes |
|---|---|---|
| Oct 22 2009, 3:03 PM EDT | drevil | 10 words added, 12 words deleted |
| Aug 27 2009, 5:45 PM EDT | drevil | 8 words added |
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Warning and disclaimer on the fixed protection. This is not a climbing gym, climb at your own risk.
The sports climbs in Bermuda have been equipped with stainless steel expansion bolts and in-situ threads. In general the protection points are placed in the spots where the rock is the most reliable. However the nature of the limestone here varies and some of the placements are unavoidably in the softer rock and so the protection will not be as strong as it would be when placed in harder rock. The reliability of the anchors is therefore not guaranteed. In addition all in-situ protection is liable to deteriorate over time. The expansion bolts are prone to stainless steel corrosion. The threads are prone to wear and tear. The lifespan of these type of anchor in this location will only be about 1 to 2 years max and so it is important to visually inspect the condition of the anchors when climbing. We are in the process of re-equipping all expansion bolts with titanium glue-in bolts. Threads will need to be replaced every so often. Unless otherwise indicated, assume the threads date from the first ascent of the route. When routes are re-equipped it will be recorded in the wiki. Likewise please note any observations of dubious in-situ protection.
This cliff looks like it has escaped from Thailand. It is a very steep cave that gives amazing climbing on tufas. It is situated in Hamilton Parish just off the Railway Trail that heads west from Duck Puddle Park. It tends to seep after rain and the best conditions occur when the wind is out of the North. Topos below. Tsunami Wall also has some DWS routes.
Heading for the light on Journey. Photo Davie Crawford
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Fabian Gysi nearing the end of the Journey. Photo Davie Crawford
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Grant Farquhar on an ascent of Under the Volcano. Photo Davie Crawford
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Topo of the Tsunami Wall cave area courtesy of Grant Farquhar.
AURICLE WALL 5.10a 15m
The 2nd pillar, with its intimidating capping roof, provides tremendous climbing. Climb the pillar and wall, via a curious ear-like flake, to the obvious climax! (3 in- situ threads and 2 bolts). Davie Crawford & Eloise Pitts Crick 14th December, 2008
Davie Crawford and Eloise Pitts Crick on the first ascent of Auricle Wall. Photo James Whittaker.
SUBSONIC WAVE 5.7 15m
An excellent line on perfect rock, this route takes the 3rd pillar. Steep moves up the pillar lead to an easing at a tufa formation. 3 bolts and 2 in- situ threads. Belay on a tree 5m back. Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 23rd October, 2008
![[Untitled]](http://image.wetpaint.com/image/1/40emyTIsP1NRYNYQr_z6FQ594099/GW800H533 "[Untitled]")
Davie Crawford on an ascent of Auricle Wall. Photo Grant Farquhar.
The 4th (and final) 'shark fin' pillar on this section of the crag provides the following 2 routes (one on each side of the pillar, meeting to a common finish).
EL TERREMOTO 5.7 15m
The left hand side of the fin provides a couple of nippy moves past a bolt. An easing at around half- way leads to a finish over a small roof. 1 bolt & 2 in situ threads. Belay on a tree 5m back.
Davie Crawford, 2nd ascent Bryan Caldwell, 3rd ascent Caroline Stockdale 12 January, 2009
Bryan Caldwell on the 2nd ascent of Aleta del Tiburon, Caroline Stockdale en belay. Photo Davie Crawford.
ALETA DEL TIBURON 5.8 15m
The better of the two 'shark fin' routes featuring some interesting wall climbing on tufas and small pockets near the start. This route takes the attractive right hand side of the fin and joins with El Terremoto at the half way mark for the same finish. 1 bolt & 3 in- situ threads. Belay on a tree 5m back. FA Davie Crawford, 2nd ascent Bryan Caldwell 12 January, 2009
Tsunami Wall topo courtesy of Davie Crawford
The sports climbs in Bermuda have been equipped with stainless steel expansion bolts and in-situ threads. In general the protection points are placed in the spots where the rock is the most reliable. However the nature of the limestone here varies and some of the placements are unavoidably in the softer rock and so the protection will not be as strong as it would be when placed in harder rock. The reliability of the anchors is therefore not guaranteed. In addition all in-situ protection is liable to deteriorate over time. The expansion bolts are prone to stainless steel corrosion. The threads are prone to wear and tear. The lifespan of these type of anchor in this location will only be about 1 to 2 years max and so it is important to visually inspect the condition of the anchors when climbing. We are in the process of re-equipping all expansion bolts with titanium glue-in bolts. Threads will need to be replaced every so often. Unless otherwise indicated, assume the threads date from the first ascent of the route. When routes are re-equipped it will be recorded in the wiki. Likewise please note any observations of dubious in-situ protection.
This cliff looks like it has escaped from Thailand. It is a very steep cave that gives amazing climbing on tufas. It is situated in Hamilton Parish just off the Railway Trail that heads west from Duck Puddle Park. It tends to seep after rain and the best conditions occur when the wind is out of the North. Topos below. Tsunami Wall also has some DWS routes.
Fabian Gysi on Journey to the Centre of the Earth. (Rope hanging down La Cucaracha). Photo Chris Burville
.
. THE MANGINA FROM ATLANTIS 5.11a 15m
This route climbs the groove and headwall left of the pillar of Kanagawa. It is possible but unsporting to escape the line leftwards in places. Start from the window underneath the pillar. Climb up into the groove/cave feature and bridge and palm up this to gain good holds over the lip. Finish rightwards up the spectacular headwall on massive incut holds. 3 threads protect. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 12th March 2009
Davie Crawford on Kanagawa. Photo Grant Farquhar.
Grant Farquhar on the FA of La Cucaracha. Photo Davie Crawford.
LA CUCARACHA 5.11a 15m
Grab your sombrero and dance your way to the skylight above. This route takes the left side of the vertical wall in the main Tsunami cave. Start just right of the pillar taken by Kanagawa. Sustained face climbing & bridging leads to a brief respite, before a tricky top out. It is unusual for a Bermuda route with thin moves on generally small holds. A huge, unimpressed cockroach spectated on the FA near the top. 4 bolts. Belay on bolts at top. Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 1st February, 2009
KANAGAWA 5.11d 15m
This flyweight looking number packs a heavyweight punch. It takes the beautiful pillar forming the left hand side of the main cave. The move past the first bolt is the crux and it keeps you on your toes until the bell. Punch past 23 more bolts and duck the KO at the large thread to top out in the apex of the cave. Bolt belay over the lip backed up by anotherBelay boltbolts on the edge of the large skylight. Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi 11th October, 20082008. Re-equipped with titanium glue-in bolts 22/10/9.
Grant Farquhar on the FA of La Cucaracha. Photo Davie Crawford.
LA CUCARACHA 5.11a 15m
Grab your sombrero and dance your way to the skylight above. This route takes the left side of the vertical wall in the main Tsunami cave. Start just right of the pillar taken by Kanagawa. Sustained face climbing & bridging leads to a brief respite, before a tricky top out. It is unusual for a Bermuda route with thin moves on generally small holds. A huge, unimpressed cockroach spectated on the FA near the top. 4 bolts. Belay on bolts at top. Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 1st February, 2009
Heading for the light on Journey. Photo Davie Crawford
.
JOURNEY TO THE CENTRE OF THE EARTH 5.12a 25m
A meandering journey through very overhanging territory in the steep wall which forms the right hand side of the main cave to eventually finish through the large square skylight in the apex of the cave. Climb up, left and inwards past 9 bolts and 8 threads to the final bolt on the south wall of the skylight. Hand traverse the east side of the lip to gain the bolt and thread belay on the north side. Watch out for the hanger on the 7th bolt which has a penchant for unscrewing itself. Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi, 14th December, 2008
Fabian Gysi nearing the end of the Journey. Photo Davie Crawford
.
3RD DEGREE BURNS NIGHT 5.12a 15m
This is the central line in the steep right hand wall of the cave. From the base of Journey climb past 4 threads and 4 bolts to the top. Stalagtite wrestling interspersed with no-hands rests. Belay on a thread on the lip backed up by the bolt on the edge of the large skylight. Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi 24th January, 2009
UNDER THE VOLCANO 5.12a 15m
This brilliant route gives 3 star climbing through wildly overhanging tufa festooned territory following the direct line of 7 bolts and 2 threads in the steep wall right of 3rd Degree Burns Night. Belay on a bolt and in-situ thread over the lip.
Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi 11th October, 2008. Is currently being re-equipped with titanium bolts.
Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi 11th October, 2008. Is currently being re-equipped with titanium bolts.
Grant Farquhar on an ascent of Under the Volcano. Photo Davie Crawford
.
CUMBRAE VIEJA 5.11d 15m
Is the substance of the first of the pillars of wisdom right of the main cave. Climb the pillar past 2 titanium glue-in bolts, 2 stainless steel expansion bolts and 3 threads. Bolt and thread belays over the lip. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 30th November, 2008. Equipped with Titanium bolts 8th March, 2009.
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SUNDOGS 5.12b 15m
Bermuda's answer to Raindogs is the left hand finish to Cumbrae Vieja. Follow Cumbrae Vieja to a rest at the large stalctite with a thread in it. Clip the titanium bolt above and head diagonally leftwards on steep ground via 2 bolts past the blobby stalactite.
Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 19th March, 2009
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Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 19th March, 2009
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Topo of the Tsunami Wall cave area courtesy of Grant Farquhar.
AURICLE WALL 5.10a 15m
The 2nd pillar, with its intimidating capping roof, provides tremendous climbing. Climb the pillar and wall, via a curious ear-like flake, to the obvious climax! (3 in- situ threads and 2 bolts). Davie Crawford & Eloise Pitts Crick 14th December, 2008
Davie Crawford and Eloise Pitts Crick on the first ascent of Auricle Wall. Photo James Whittaker.
SUBSONIC WAVE 5.7 15m
An excellent line on perfect rock, this route takes the 3rd pillar. Steep moves up the pillar lead to an easing at a tufa formation. 3 bolts and 2 in- situ threads. Belay on a tree 5m back. Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 23rd October, 2008
Davie Crawford on an ascent of Auricle Wall. Photo Grant Farquhar.
The 4th (and final) 'shark fin' pillar on this section of the crag provides the following 2 routes (one on each side of the pillar, meeting to a common finish).
EL TERREMOTO 5.7 15m
The left hand side of the fin provides a couple of nippy moves past a bolt. An easing at around half- way leads to a finish over a small roof. 1 bolt & 2 in situ threads. Belay on a tree 5m back.
Davie Crawford, 2nd ascent Bryan Caldwell, 3rd ascent Caroline Stockdale 12 January, 2009
Bryan Caldwell on the 2nd ascent of Aleta del Tiburon, Caroline Stockdale en belay. Photo Davie Crawford.
ALETA DEL TIBURON 5.8 15m
The better of the two 'shark fin' routes featuring some interesting wall climbing on tufas and small pockets near the start. This route takes the attractive right hand side of the fin and joins with El Terremoto at the half way mark for the same finish. 1 bolt & 3 in- situ threads. Belay on a tree 5m back. FA Davie Crawford, 2nd ascent Bryan Caldwell 12 January, 2009
Tsunami Wall topo courtesy of Davie Crawford
