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Tuckers Town
SCOTTISH OLYMPIC EXHIBITION SPORTS WALL
So far the only venue climbed on in Tuckers Town. Follow South Road east all the way to the end at the dock in Tuckers Town Bay. The wall is visible from the dock on the right and requires a 200 yard swim or boat ride. The rock is good but crumbly in places, the water underneath is deep (enough).
.
THE EIGHTEEN PINTS OF HEAVY, FISH SUPPER AND A FIGHT TRIATHLON 5.10b 15m sea level traverse
The traverse of the wall. Start from ledges at the left hand side of the wall. Traverse drunkenly rightwards past some vegetation to turn the arete and gain the wall proper. Change out of your vomit soiled breeks to continue on overhanging pumpy ground (crux) to deep fried ledges beneath the white wall in the centre of the crag. Batter the opposition rightwards to ledges at the base of the gully bounding the right hand side of the wall.
Grant Fearchar 23rd July, 2009
THE HOLD MA KEBAB 'TILL AH GIE THIS KENT A DOING HURDLES 5.10a 5m
The overhanging flake line left of the bulge looks pish easy but isnae. Some technical legwork will see you victorious over this limestone cowboy of a route.
Steve McGill 3rd August 2009
.
RAB C NESBITT MEMORIAL HEART ATTACK RELAY RACE 5.10c 5m
Start as for the above route. Follow the traverse to the hard bit below the overhanging water pocketed, pink elephanted, purple streak. Drink 12 pints of export and smoke 60 fags before staggering unsteadily up the purple streak to the cardiac arrest at the top. Jump off.
Grant Fearchar and the spirit of Rab C Nesbitt 23rd July, 2009
NEDS KRU SPRINT 5.7 (R) 5m
You lookin' at ma burd? The recessed white groove just right of the overhanging prow is pure manky wi' crumbly holds, man, but as long as ye've got yer Burberry cap on ye'll be safe as f*ck, know? Bridge up, top out, start on the next kent who's passing. Chase him doon intae Tucker's Toon. Young Team ya bass.
Mind the starting ledge, ya plamph.
Davie Crawford 3rd August 2009
SUPER LAGER MARLBORO MARATHON 5.8 (R) 5m
Tank yersel up fur the left hand o' the twin white ribs just right o' the chossy groove of Neds Kru, ya fud. It's no as good as the route tae it's right but climb it anyway.
Ah telt ye tae mind the starting ledge.
Davie Crawford 3rd August 2009
THE BUCKFAST BIATHLON 5.8 (R) 5m
The right hand of the twin white ribs provides a real tonic for the Scottish conoisseur of fine wines. Got the munchies? A deep fried mars bar and a pickled onion will provide adequate sustenance for the ascent. Ascend the pure minted pillar ae white rock tae top oot on some mad snappy keich, ya hoor.
If ye fall and brek yer legs oan that startin' ledge don't come runnin' tae me.
Davie Crawford 3rd August 2009
CASTLE ISLAND
Castle Island is the castle and battlement- topped island on the left as you leave Castle Harbour Cut heading out to the waters off South Shore.
There are two DWS areas with a total of 5 routes so far with the possibility of more routes.
Access is by boat, or swim of a few hundred metres from Castle Point in Tucker's Towm.
The first area climbed is a around a the lip of a deep cave near the Western tip of the island. The water is shallow under this crag (4 feet) and, despite a sandy landing, care should be taken to avoid uncontrolled falls.
The routes are described left to right.
THE POACHER 5.10c (R) 5m Steven McGill & Davie Crawford 3rd august 2009
Evade the ghillie by leaping out the water like a Polaris missile to gain the first very positive jug right of the center of the roof of the cave. There's another great big jug after that and then you're off up some typical sharp stuff to victory. Stuff some pheasants doon your breeches and leap into the shallow water to freedom.
TRAMMEL NET 5.10c (R) 5m Steven McGill 3rd august 2009
Same start as the Poacher- almighty water dyno to the jug, once you're up and settled head off left and follow the arc of the cave to the middle and up to top out. At this point exchange pheasants for salmon. Or sea trout if you like that better.
The Northern Side of the island offers 3 enjoyable, amenable routes centred on a pair of prows featuring good rock above deep water. Potential exists for a couple more lines. The routes are described left to right.
GUDDLE A GUPPY 5.7 7m Davie Crawford 3rd August 2009
The left hand side of the lefthand arete taken by Tickled Trout, climbed from a niche on the left.
TICKLED TROUT 5.8 7m Steven McGill 3rd August 2009
Go between the cave and a yonty crevice affair and seek a white streaky wall on the lefthand arete over some nice deep water. There you will find a steady supply of fingery holds straight up. Enjoy a safe leap back to the Atlantic.
PURLOIN MY PERCH 5.8 7m Davie Crawford & Steven McGill 3rd August 2009
A traversing line rightwards on the right hand arete from the starting crevice affair of Tickled Trout onto a nose of rock, with a tricky top out.
So far the only venue climbed on in Tuckers Town. Follow South Road east all the way to the end at the dock in Tuckers Town Bay. The wall is visible from the dock on the right and requires a 200 yard swim or boat ride. The rock is good but crumbly in places, the water underneath is deep (enough).
.
THE EIGHTEEN PINTS OF HEAVY, FISH SUPPER AND A FIGHT TRIATHLON 5.10b 15m sea level traverse
The traverse of the wall. Start from ledges at the left hand side of the wall. Traverse drunkenly rightwards past some vegetation to turn the arete and gain the wall proper. Change out of your vomit soiled breeks to continue on overhanging pumpy ground (crux) to deep fried ledges beneath the white wall in the centre of the crag. Batter the opposition rightwards to ledges at the base of the gully bounding the right hand side of the wall.
Grant Fearchar 23rd July, 2009
THE HOLD MA KEBAB 'TILL AH GIE THIS KENT A DOING HURDLES 5.10a 5m
The overhanging flake line left of the bulge looks pish easy but isnae. Some technical legwork will see you victorious over this limestone cowboy of a route.
Steve McGill 3rd August 2009
.
RAB C NESBITT MEMORIAL HEART ATTACK RELAY RACE 5.10c 5m
Start as for the above route. Follow the traverse to the hard bit below the overhanging water pocketed, pink elephanted, purple streak. Drink 12 pints of export and smoke 60 fags before staggering unsteadily up the purple streak to the cardiac arrest at the top. Jump off.
Grant Fearchar and the spirit of Rab C Nesbitt 23rd July, 2009
NEDS KRU SPRINT 5.7 (R) 5m
You lookin' at ma burd? The recessed white groove just right of the overhanging prow is pure manky wi' crumbly holds, man, but as long as ye've got yer Burberry cap on ye'll be safe as f*ck, know? Bridge up, top out, start on the next kent who's passing. Chase him doon intae Tucker's Toon. Young Team ya bass.
Mind the starting ledge, ya plamph.
Davie Crawford 3rd August 2009
SUPER LAGER MARLBORO MARATHON 5.8 (R) 5m
Tank yersel up fur the left hand o' the twin white ribs just right o' the chossy groove of Neds Kru, ya fud. It's no as good as the route tae it's right but climb it anyway.
Ah telt ye tae mind the starting ledge.
Davie Crawford 3rd August 2009
THE BUCKFAST BIATHLON 5.8 (R) 5m
The right hand of the twin white ribs provides a real tonic for the Scottish conoisseur of fine wines. Got the munchies? A deep fried mars bar and a pickled onion will provide adequate sustenance for the ascent. Ascend the pure minted pillar ae white rock tae top oot on some mad snappy keich, ya hoor.
If ye fall and brek yer legs oan that startin' ledge don't come runnin' tae me.
Davie Crawford 3rd August 2009
CASTLE ISLAND
Castle Island is the castle and battlement- topped island on the left as you leave Castle Harbour Cut heading out to the waters off South Shore.
There are two DWS areas with a total of 5 routes so far with the possibility of more routes.
Access is by boat, or swim of a few hundred metres from Castle Point in Tucker's Towm.
The first area climbed is a around a the lip of a deep cave near the Western tip of the island. The water is shallow under this crag (4 feet) and, despite a sandy landing, care should be taken to avoid uncontrolled falls.
The routes are described left to right.
THE POACHER 5.10c (R) 5m Steven McGill & Davie Crawford 3rd august 2009
Evade the ghillie by leaping out the water like a Polaris missile to gain the first very positive jug right of the center of the roof of the cave. There's another great big jug after that and then you're off up some typical sharp stuff to victory. Stuff some pheasants doon your breeches and leap into the shallow water to freedom.
TRAMMEL NET 5.10c (R) 5m Steven McGill 3rd august 2009
Same start as the Poacher- almighty water dyno to the jug, once you're up and settled head off left and follow the arc of the cave to the middle and up to top out. At this point exchange pheasants for salmon. Or sea trout if you like that better.
The Northern Side of the island offers 3 enjoyable, amenable routes centred on a pair of prows featuring good rock above deep water. Potential exists for a couple more lines. The routes are described left to right.
GUDDLE A GUPPY 5.7 7m Davie Crawford 3rd August 2009
The left hand side of the lefthand arete taken by Tickled Trout, climbed from a niche on the left.
TICKLED TROUT 5.8 7m Steven McGill 3rd August 2009
Go between the cave and a yonty crevice affair and seek a white streaky wall on the lefthand arete over some nice deep water. There you will find a steady supply of fingery holds straight up. Enjoy a safe leap back to the Atlantic.
PURLOIN MY PERCH 5.8 7m Davie Crawford & Steven McGill 3rd August 2009
A traversing line rightwards on the right hand arete from the starting crevice affair of Tickled Trout onto a nose of rock, with a tricky top out.
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