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White Grunt Hole
White Grunt Hole describes the area of rock extending from the east side of Clarence Cove to Deep Bay. It is visible directly across from the dock in Clarence Cove.
Fabian Gysi venturing into Enema Territory. This is one for a high spring tide.
INTO THE LABYRINTH 5.10d 120m sea level traverse
This route comes with a guarantee - I guarantee that you will be pumped at the end of it! It actually starts in Clarence Cove but the majority of the action takes place in White Grunt Hole. It follows the labyrinthine sea level traverse from Clarence Cove all the way to join the start of Grunt's Traverse at the foot of the left arete in the photo above. The rock is variable in quality and previous experience of climbing on Bermuda rock is an advantage. The water depth also varies and it is safer at high tide. Start from the small beach on the east side of Clarence Cove. Start traversing the cramped overhanging eastern wall of Clarence Cove, initially above shallow water but soon getting deep. There is one short hard overhanging section above deep water. Continue around the arete of the mouth of the bay and follow the path of least resistance eastwards. Keep an eye out for the entrance to a narrow dry passageway that allows a crawl through (you can also traverse the outside of this buttress). There are now two deep caves to navigate. It is possible to climb around the inside of each cave, but the rock inside tends to be slimey in places. Alternatively swim across the mouth of each cave. With a bit of pre-planning this can be accomplished with a dry chalk bag. This leads to the base of the overhanging white streak in the left arete of the largest cave. Traverse pumpily left at sea level at the base of the steep wall to achieve a no-hands rest on the ledge on the arete and junction with Grunt's Traverse. Grant Farquhar 6th April, 2009. It would be possible to link this route with Grunt's Traverse and then Full Fathom Five Ten to give a 200 plus meter sea level traverse at 5.10 plus. A complete and completely dry ascent awaits. Magical Mystery Tour eat your heart out!
ENEMA TERRITORY 5.11c 19m
Recommended only for lovers of loose overhanging weetabix. The rock is unbelievably friable. The water underneath is shallow and you definitely want high tide. Gain the base of the arete as for Grunt's Traverse. From the ledge traverse right at sea level for 10 feet to underneath the severely bulging wall. Climb up the line of a thin vertical seam, stepping right and then up the line of another thin vertical seam to gain a bridging no-hands rest in a scoop. Continue directly up the overhanging wall for a few moves to gain a prominent horizontal break. Follow this leftwards until beneath the bonsai tree on the arete. Grab the tree and pull over onto the large ledge above. Follow the ledge up and rightwards to finish. Grant Farquhar 5th April, 2009.
.
BUTT PLUG 5.11c 19m
A harder and slightly pointless direct finish to Enema Territory. Only worthwhile if you have done the parent route and want to repeat it whilst making life hard for yourself. Suffice to say this route carries not so much a sting in the tail as a pain in the ass. Start up through Enema Territory to the no-hands rest in the scoop and then the horizontal break above. Step left then continue directly to the top. High tide is recommended. Grant Farquhar 29/8/9.
.
GRUNT'S TRAVERSE 5.10a 50m
An interesting expedition which is pretty safe at high spring tide and links up with Full Fathom Five Ten (in Deep Bay) to give a long DWS traverse. Start from sea level at the foot of the left arete of the steep wall opposite the dock in Clarence Cove. This is the left arete in the photo above and can be gained by climbing (carefully) down the top part of ZigZag Arete and then the groove to the east. Alternatively swim across from the dock in Clarence Cove. Traverse leftwards (east) just above sea level on reasonable rock. Mostly above deep water at high spring tide but with the odd clearly visible submerged reef shelf to beware. Eventually gains a very deep rectangular sea cave which is full of white grunts so I presume this is white grunt hole itself. It looks entirely possible to traverse around the inside of this cave in its entirety and this awaits a complete ascent. Alternatively make the short swim to gain the opposite wall as I did. Continue traversing leftwards on good rock to join Full Fathom Five Ten. Grunt Farquhar 23rd March, 2009.
ZIGZAG ARETE 5.7 (R) 19m
Tackles the left arete of the steep wall by the easiest line. Initially climb a layback crack for 5m on the East side of the arete (serious- above a large ledge), until a foot traverse leads rightwards round the arete to access a short wall with some fragile holds (now safer above deep water). A few small trees give good handholds to pass this section. Continue up the arete to the top.
Davie Crawford 21 June, 2009.
.
Grunt's Traverse at White Grunt Hole (photo Grunt Farquhar)
.
White Grunt Hole is also the home of the impressive white arete across the bay from the dock at Clarence Cove. This was attempted in 2007 by Ward Byrum, see photos below. This remains an unclimbed DWS challenge. Unfortunately the water underneath the landing zone is only waist deep at low tide and chest deep at high tide and the middle third has very poor rock with the consistency of cheese. This line is therefore a challenging and serious proposition, good luck!
Pics courtesy of Leila Wadson of Ward Byrum attempting to DWS the white grunt arete
INTO THE LABYRINTH 5.10d 120m sea level traverse
This route comes with a guarantee - I guarantee that you will be pumped at the end of it! It actually starts in Clarence Cove but the majority of the action takes place in White Grunt Hole. It follows the labyrinthine sea level traverse from Clarence Cove all the way to join the start of Grunt's Traverse at the foot of the left arete in the photo above. The rock is variable in quality and previous experience of climbing on Bermuda rock is an advantage. The water depth also varies and it is safer at high tide. Start from the small beach on the east side of Clarence Cove. Start traversing the cramped overhanging eastern wall of Clarence Cove, initially above shallow water but soon getting deep. There is one short hard overhanging section above deep water. Continue around the arete of the mouth of the bay and follow the path of least resistance eastwards. Keep an eye out for the entrance to a narrow dry passageway that allows a crawl through (you can also traverse the outside of this buttress). There are now two deep caves to navigate. It is possible to climb around the inside of each cave, but the rock inside tends to be slimey in places. Alternatively swim across the mouth of each cave. With a bit of pre-planning this can be accomplished with a dry chalk bag. This leads to the base of the overhanging white streak in the left arete of the largest cave. Traverse pumpily left at sea level at the base of the steep wall to achieve a no-hands rest on the ledge on the arete and junction with Grunt's Traverse. Grant Farquhar 6th April, 2009. It would be possible to link this route with Grunt's Traverse and then Full Fathom Five Ten to give a 200 plus meter sea level traverse at 5.10 plus. A complete and completely dry ascent awaits. Magical Mystery Tour eat your heart out!
ENEMA TERRITORY 5.11c 19m
Recommended only for lovers of loose overhanging weetabix. The rock is unbelievably friable. The water underneath is shallow and you definitely want high tide. Gain the base of the arete as for Grunt's Traverse. From the ledge traverse right at sea level for 10 feet to underneath the severely bulging wall. Climb up the line of a thin vertical seam, stepping right and then up the line of another thin vertical seam to gain a bridging no-hands rest in a scoop. Continue directly up the overhanging wall for a few moves to gain a prominent horizontal break. Follow this leftwards until beneath the bonsai tree on the arete. Grab the tree and pull over onto the large ledge above. Follow the ledge up and rightwards to finish. Grant Farquhar 5th April, 2009.
.
BUTT PLUG 5.11c 19m
A harder and slightly pointless direct finish to Enema Territory. Only worthwhile if you have done the parent route and want to repeat it whilst making life hard for yourself. Suffice to say this route carries not so much a sting in the tail as a pain in the ass. Start up through Enema Territory to the no-hands rest in the scoop and then the horizontal break above. Step left then continue directly to the top. High tide is recommended. Grant Farquhar 29/8/9.
.
GRUNT'S TRAVERSE 5.10a 50m
An interesting expedition which is pretty safe at high spring tide and links up with Full Fathom Five Ten (in Deep Bay) to give a long DWS traverse. Start from sea level at the foot of the left arete of the steep wall opposite the dock in Clarence Cove. This is the left arete in the photo above and can be gained by climbing (carefully) down the top part of ZigZag Arete and then the groove to the east. Alternatively swim across from the dock in Clarence Cove. Traverse leftwards (east) just above sea level on reasonable rock. Mostly above deep water at high spring tide but with the odd clearly visible submerged reef shelf to beware. Eventually gains a very deep rectangular sea cave which is full of white grunts so I presume this is white grunt hole itself. It looks entirely possible to traverse around the inside of this cave in its entirety and this awaits a complete ascent. Alternatively make the short swim to gain the opposite wall as I did. Continue traversing leftwards on good rock to join Full Fathom Five Ten. Grunt Farquhar 23rd March, 2009.
ZIGZAG ARETE 5.7 (R) 19m
Tackles the left arete of the steep wall by the easiest line. Initially climb a layback crack for 5m on the East side of the arete (serious- above a large ledge), until a foot traverse leads rightwards round the arete to access a short wall with some fragile holds (now safer above deep water). A few small trees give good handholds to pass this section. Continue up the arete to the top.
Davie Crawford 21 June, 2009.
.
Grunt's Traverse at White Grunt Hole (photo Grunt Farquhar)
.
White Grunt Hole is also the home of the impressive white arete across the bay from the dock at Clarence Cove. This was attempted in 2007 by Ward Byrum, see photos below. This remains an unclimbed DWS challenge. Unfortunately the water underneath the landing zone is only waist deep at low tide and chest deep at high tide and the middle third has very poor rock with the consistency of cheese. This line is therefore a challenging and serious proposition, good luck!
Pics courtesy of Leila Wadson of Ward Byrum attempting to DWS the white grunt arete
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