Bermuda Rock Climbing Topo - Recently Updated Pages

Tsunami Wall

drevil — Mon, 01 Dec 2008 16:48:33 CST

This cliff looks like it has escaped from Thailand. It is a very steep cave that gives amazing climbing on tufas. It is situated in Hamilton Parish just off the Railway Trail that heads west from The Duck Puddle. It tends to seep after rain and the best conditions occur when the wind is out of the North.

SUNFLOWERS 5.7 15m 30th November 2008

A very nice deep water solo up the left arete of the wall left of the main cave. Walk through the window underneath the pillar of Kanagawa. Traverse leftwards on a horizontal rail (ledges underneath this bit) and continue to gain lovely orangey brown rock on the arete. Climb the arete past an ear feature to sharp rock and the top.

KANAGAWA 5.11d 15m

This flyweight looking number packs a heavyweight punch. It takes the beautiful pillar forming the left hand side of the main cave. The move past the first bolt is the crux and it keeps you on your toes until the bell. Punch past 2 more bolts and duck the KO at the large thread to top out in the apex of the cave. Bolt belay over the lip backed up by another bolt on the edge of the large skylight.

Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi 11th October, 2008

UNDER THE VOLCANO 5.12a 15m

This is probably the best sports climb in Bermuda. It gives 3 star climbing through wildly overhanging tufa festooned territory following the line of 7 bolts and a thread in the steep wall which forms the right hand side of the main cave. Belay on a bolt and in-situ thread over the lip.

Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi 11th October, 2008

CUMBRAE VIEJA 5.11d 15m

Is the substance of the first of the pillars of wisdom right of the main cave. Climb the pillar past 3 bolts and 1 thread. Bolt and thread belays over the lip.

Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 30th November, 2008
.
SUBSONIC WAVE 5.8 15m
An excellent line on perfect rock, this direct route climbs a striking pillar. Belay just above the ocean- on the 3rd pillar right of the main cave (thread and bolt). A steep wall leads to a tufa formation via 3 bolts and 2 in- situ threads. Belay on a tree 5m back.
Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 23rd October, 2008

These routes have been equipped with stainless steel expansion bolts but get on them quick because rust never sleeps (or to be really pedantic, stainless steel corrosion never sleeps). The lifespan of this type of anchor in this location will only be about 1 to 2 years max and we are planning to re-equip with titanium glue-in bolts. Regardless of the nature of the anchor, the nature of the rock here is soft and so the bolts will not be as strong as they would be when placed in harder rock. The reliability of the anchors is not guaranteed. This is not a climbing gym, climb at your own risk.

St David's

drevil — Sat, 29 Nov 2008 14:50:42 CST

THE GREAT HEAD

This is easily the biggest and most impressive cliff with some of the best rock on the island. It is in a very spectacular location gazing east across the Atlantic towards The Azores and is set off by the guns of the battery above. The large rockfall visible in the picture occurred sometime between 2003 and 2006. Longtails do nest in many of the other cliffs in Bermuda but do not seem to favour this one. None of the routes described below have longtail nests on or them or in their vicinity. The nesting season is from April to October which are generally poor months for sports climbing anyway due to the high heat and humidity. Please stay well away from any nest sites during the nesting season.

The first route takes a lip trip across the top of the sea cave in the south end of the cliff. From the gun battery find steps leading down to an old searchlight station above sea level at the south end of the cliff.

BENSALEM 5.10d 20m Grant Farquhar & Bryan Caldwell 8th March 2008

This excellent climb is Bermuda's most popular sports climb with a staggering 4 ascents. Scramble across easy ledges to the base of the obvious white band of rock. Belay here on a new bolt and a thread amongst very poor rusty old bolts. Follow the rising white band of rock up and rightwards above the cave past 8 bolts to an in-situ belay at the top of the cliff. Either lower off and belay your second from the ledges on the other side of the cave or top out and belay from above. Take extra care with the large Damoclean flake at the last bolt. Don't let anyone stand directly underneath the lower-off when the route is being climbed in case this flake gets pulled off.

Second ascent and first Bermudian ascent by Sean Kelly & Tristan DeSilva

Sean Kelly and Tristan Desilva on the first Bermudian ascent of Bensalem. Photo Claudia

THE ONLY GAY IN THE VILLAGE 5.9 20m Grant Farquhar & Bryan Caldwell 20th June 2008
Tackles the white streak in the arete right of the Bensalem cave. The handholds and footholds are very fragile in places but the protection placements are in sound rock. Mince past 3 bolts and 2 threads. Take the no-hands rest in the closet at the final thread before coming out to run it out up the immac headwall. Bolt and natural thread belays.

The next area is the large central cave in the middle of the cliff. Approach from the south or north. Both routes require some 5.7 soloing in serious positions. If coming from the south it is possible to utilise the belay at the base of Bensalem to protect the short but steep and serious downclimb. Alternatively, abseil in from the belay at the top of Bensalem.

Sean Kelly in The Crackhouse

CRACKHOUSE 5.11c 20m 6th April, 2008 Grant Farquhar & Sean Kelly
Get your fix on the left hand equipped line in the steep wall on the right hand side of the cave, climbing just left of the obvious crack. Hit the pipe past 6 bolts and 6 threads to a 2 bolt and thread belay at a no-hands resting ledge on a plinth. The come down begins here. Ground Control from Eloise Pitts Crick, Katie Kent & Paul Van Rensburg.

Second ascent on-sight flashed in midsummer sauna conditions by Ward Byrum, 7th August 2008

Sean Kelly working Crackhouse

Sean Kelly on the crux of Crackhouse

BOGEYMAN 20m 5.12c

This monster lurks on the right hand equipped line in this steep section of the cliff. Climb past 8 threads and 4 bolts to the 2 bolt and thread belay.

Grant Farquhar & Eloise Pitts Crick 27th November 2008

These routes have been equipped with stainless steel expansion bolts but get on them quick because rust never sleeps (or to be really pedantic, stainless steel corrosion never sleeps). The lifespan of this type of anchor in this location will only be about 1 to 2 years max and we are planning to re-equip with titanium glue-in bolts. Regardless of the nature of the anchor, the nature of the rock here is soft and so the bolts will not be as strong as they would be when placed in harder rock. The reliability of the anchors is not guaranteed. This is not a climbing gym, climb at your own risk.

Harrington Sound

drevil — Thu, 27 Nov 2008 17:04:56 CST

Monkey Island AKA Hall's Island has some DWS courtesy of Nick Strong. Boat access.

There is also some DWS bouldering below Abbott's Cliff according to Nick.

Harrington Sound Post Office Wall has some new lines courtesy of Brian Caldwell.

Shark Hole looks to have potential.

Clarence Cove

weedavie — Thu, 06 Nov 2008 20:26:24 CST

This and the neighbouring Hogfish Bay are the most exciting deep water solo venues in Bermuda

West of the quay in Clarence Cove are some man made caves which end on Hogfish point from where many a fine night dive has been started. West again is Hogfish Bay which has an arch at its western tip.

The climbs lie below the stone pinnacle, in the bay formed between the quay and the point. Here you will find a massive roof system bounded by the twin ribs of Lara Croft and Romantic Pottery. The routes are safe at any state of the tide.

The crux of Ambergris

AMBERGRIS 5.10d 50m sea-level traverse 15th October 2006
A very good DWS traverse. Start from the cave system gained via the steps at the point west of the quay in Clarence Cove. The cave system branches south and north. Take the north branch and climb through a window to gain the seaward face. Start traversing eastward (left) out of the mouth of the cave system and around an arete to less cramped territory. Continue eastwards around the overhanging rib of Romantic Pottery to gain ledges below massive overhangs. Continue eastwards below the rib of Lara Croft (crux) to easier ground and follow the traverse around and up to easy ground. There is an extended start option which commences traversing eastwards from the point to gain the cave system.

Fabian Gysi on the final traverse of Ambergris

Davie Crawford attempting Captain Caveman in Clarence Cove.

Davie Crawford gets clubbed by Captain Caveman.

CAPTAIN CAVEMAN 5.11a 5m Davie Crawford 19th September 2008
Right of Petra is a large horizontal roof. Below the roof is a port hole which accesses the main cave.
Start in the west side of the port hole. Climb the very steep, undercut rib to an obvious impasse at the horizontal roof. Using caveman powers, thug your way over the roof and finish to the cheers of the Teen Angels (Brenda, Dee Dee & Taffy). 2nd and 3rd and 4th ascents by Grant Farquhar, Davie Crawford and Fabian Gysi 20th September 2008

PETRA 5.11c 7m Fabian Gysi 30th August 2008
Tackles the right hand side of the cave entrance. Gain ledges under the west side of the cave from the cave itself. Climb diagonally leftwards on steep ground above the cave to finish via a bonsai tree above the mouth of the cave.
2nd ascent 3rd Sep 2008

Fabian Gysi on Petra

BAROTRAUMA 5.11a 7m 7th November 2006
Strenuous climbing through the ceiling above the cave exit. Start as for Ambergris and follow this to a no hands rest on the arete. Reverse back along the traverse to the mouth of the cave. Make strenuous moves rightwards through horizontal territory above the mouth of the caves to a precarious top out.

The first ascent of Barotrauma

ENEMA OF THE STATE 5.10b 7m 24th October 2006
Start as for Ambergris. Follow the traverse out past the mouth of the cave to the no hands rest on the arete. Turn the arete and follow your nose up the easiest line in the pale overhanging orange streaked wall on massive incut jugs to a niche and the top.

GANDHI ON CRACK 5.10d 7m 10th September 2008

An eliminate taking the grey overhanging wall between the rib of Romantic Pottery and the wall plugged by Enema of the State. From the base of the rib of Romantic Pottery step right and climb steeply up on grey pockety rock getting progressively harder until a horizontal break and hand jam is attained just below the top. Summon the power of Gandhi after hitting his crackpipe and levitate to the top.

ROMANTIC POTTERY 5.10c 7m March 2003
Follow Ambergris eastwards for 30m to an overhanging rib with roofs to the left. Climb steeply up the rib staying left of the obvious rock scar to join the finishing moves of Atlantis.

Tristan DeSilva pulls a big hold off Romantic Pottery

LARA CROFT 5.11a 7m 18th October 2006
A perfect DWS route. Good rock above deep water with the crux at the very top. Named because it is feisty and gymnastic with big jugs. This brilliant line takes the left hand twin pillar in the bay. Start by reversing the final section of Ambergris to a cave and ledge just before the pillar. Fight onto the front of the pillar before licking the final groove into submission. Safe.

Fabian Gysi preparing to enter the groove of Lara Croft.

LEUKOSIA 5.11d 7m 15th August 2008

This route answers the siren call of the white wall right of Lara Croft. Start from the bottom of Lara Croft (ooer missus!). Step right directly above the crux of Ambergris to climb the steep wall on good but spaced pockets to a shake out on the traverse of White Guilt. Follow this leftwards to finish up Lara Croft.

LATS LACTIC OCEAN 5.12a 10m 9th Sep 2008

This route offers no new climbing but gives the most sustained link up on the wall. Start as for Leukosia then reverse White Guilt into Song to the Siren. Continue along this to finish up Atlantis.

Nick Strong attempts to seduce Lara Croft

Nick Strong grappling with Lara Croft's jugs before being rejected

SONG TO THE SIREN 5.11c 7m 27th July 2008

An indirect extended start to the classic line of Atlantis.Reverse the final section of Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the left hand side of the deepest cave, climb through the roof to gain a shake out at two deep pockets over the lip. Traverse horizontally rightwards to gain the niche of Atlantis and finish up this.

Bryan Caldwell tries his luck with Lara

WHITE GUILT 5.11d 7m 9th August 2008

Excellent climbing linking the start of Song to the Siren to the finish of Lara Croft. From the deep pockets traverse leftwards to join Lara Croft just before the crux.

Ward Byrum on Atlantis. Photo Alex Hammond

ATLANTIS 5.11b 7m 21st October 2006
Amazing climbing through stupendous horizontal territory. Reverse the final section of Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the right hand side of the deepest cave make long moves up to a niche. Climb rightwards out of this with difficulty to a good hold and step right to a semi-rest. Pull directly through the final overhang to the consternation of the BBQ makers above.

Exiting the niche of Atlantis

DYNOWARD 5.12a 7m Ward Byrum 2007
A dramatic finale to Atlantis. Follow Atlantis to the good hold where it goes right under the final ceiling. Instead of moving right, leap wildly through the roof to a good hold on the lip followed by an horrendous mantelshelf.

First and subsequent numerous ascents by Ward. First non Ward ascent by Grant Farquhar, 6th Aug 2008
Video of a Ward ascent with a... 'variation finish' here-
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23422843@N02/2744952811/

Another Video of Atlantis and Dynoward here

A shark's eye view of Ward Byrum heading for the Dynoward finish to Atlantis

BATHOS PARTY 5.11b 7m 27th March 2008
Start as for Atlantis but continue along the traverse past the start of this to ledges beneath the next cave which is bounded on the right by the overhanging rib of Romantic Pottery. Directly above is the ceiling below the final traverse of Atlantis which has a flange hold in the underside. Climb steeply on big jugs to grasp the flange hold and use this to gain the lip of the roof. Rock over onto the wall above to join Atlantis and finish as for this.

Deep Bay

drevil — Tue, 28 Oct 2008 11:22:01 CDT

Deep Bay itself has a lot of rock but unfortunately the water under most of it is very shallow.The DWS action is to be had on the steep white buttress of good rock at the western point of Deep Bay. There is a prominent overhanging arete in the middle of the buttress.

The first two lines take the white wall left of the central arete and require a swim or boat start.

BALLS DEEP 5.9 5m
The left-hand line on the steep white wall to the ledge.

Nick Strong, 2005

DEEP THROAT 5.9 5m
The right-hand line on the steep white wall to the ledge.
Ward Byrum, 2005

The above descriptions and dates are uncomfirmed and I need to double check the date and descriptions and how they relate to the following routes with Ward and Nick.

For the next two routes walk down from Admiralty Park above to gain the detached promontory adjacent to the white buttress.

FULL FATHOM FIVE TEN 5.10a 20m sea level traverse

This is a very good introduction to deep water soloing taking the easiest line traversing the white buttress. The water is deep and the rock is good. Climb down the groove in the east side of the promontory (stainless steel bolt at the top) to sea level. Traverse eastwards at sea level on amazing honeycombed rock to an impasse at a deep cave. Climb up and over the lip of the cave to gain a resting place at sea level on the other side. Climb up and leftwards to pass the overhanging arete at mid-height (crux). Continue leftwards along the shelf to gain easy ground and a path to the top. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford, 27th October, 2008

DEEP IN DIS PEAR 5.10d 5m

Follow Full Fathom Five Ten to the rest before the arete. Traverse left to the base of the arete at sea level. Climb the tricky arete with continued interest to the little pinnacle on top.

Grant Farquhar 27th October, 2008

Astwood Cove

weedavie — Wed, 22 Oct 2008 19:12:46 CDT

Approach-
This area is on the West end of Marley Beach. Don't go into Astwood Cove itself.
The quickest approach is from the carpark in Astwood Park. Walk seaward along the approach path and
down climb an easy groove on your left, via the handy (in-situ) rope.
Walk about 50-75m along the beach to the boulder.

White Wall bouldering (Marley Beach West).
This is an overhanging wall offering worthwhile lower grade problems in a stunning, secluded setting.
4-5m high depending on sand level.

The rock is pretty reliable, but the top outs can be sharp and 'character building'.
In average conditions the landings are safe onto deep sand. A spotter might be a good idea when the sand level is very low.

1/ Storm Surge (V2) (weedavie- 12/7/8)- the longest problem on the boulder, following the obvious juggy left- to- right hand rail, crossing Breakdance, Flangio, Tiny Bubbles and topping out on the last move of Bertha.
(Named from storm surge waves- courtesy of Hurricane Bertha- that washed the boulder at low tide on the day of the FA).

2/ Atlantic Arete (V2) (weedavie- 19/7/8)- excellent climbing directly up the juggy left arete of the boulder to a sharp top out. Easier than it looks. Video here- http://www.flickr.com/photos/23422843@N02/2686170455/

3/ Breakdance (V1) (weedavie- 8/7/8)- gain a juggy, horizontal break in the distinctive triangular niche then go for gold straight above.

4/ Flangio (V3) (weedavie 21/10/8)- who can resist a nice bit of flange? This direct route takes the centre of the White Wall. Power through shallow, fingery pockets via the obvious flange feature to a juggy chequered flag.

5/ Tiny Bubbles (V1) (weedavie- 8/7/8)- just left of Bertha, climb the smooth wall through a shield of pocketed rock.

6/ Bertha (V1) (weedavie- 8/7/8)- at the right side of the White Wall, climb the faint crack line, topping out via a tiny left facing corner.

The low traverse of the White Wall boulder goes at V0.

The Prow (V1) (weedavie- 23/7/8)- from a sit start down in the niche on the left climb the strenuous prow feature to a razor top out! Much better at low sand level.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23422843@N02/2697627660/

The Great Sound

weedavie — Wed, 15 Oct 2008 15:51:41 CDT

The Great Sound has 2 areas developed and both are accessed by boat. Descent is by jumping.

Long Island

Long Island is in the Great Sound and you get a good view of the cliffs on the North side from the Hamilton to Dockyard ferry. The cliffs are small but reasonably good. Unfortunately most of the cliff has shallow water underneath. The two lines below have the deepest landings on the cliff.

RAT TAIL 5.9 6m

Takes the white arete right of the prominent deep square cut cave. The water underneath is only 6 feet deep which means an "armchair" landing position needs to be used on entry to the water- otherwise you will hit the bottom.
Fabian Gysi, 13th October 2008

Grant Farquhar on the 2nd ascent of Rat Tail (Fabian Gysi on top).

INEBRIATION ACROSS DE NATION 5.7 6m
The open groove left of the cave. As above, the water depth is no more than 6 feet on this one.
Davie Crawford, 13th October 2008

Somerset sea cliff

This cliff is the obvious white wall on the east side of Somerset Island.

(L-R) Fabian Gysi and Grant Farquhar on the first ascents of The Sound of Summer & Pontius Pirate.

THE SOUND OF SUMMER 5.12a 10m

Takes a line approx 7m left of Pontius Pirate with some hard moves at the beginning.
Fabian Gysi, 13th October 2008

PONTIUS PIRATE 5.10a 10m
The immaculate pocketed white streak in the centre of the cliff.
Grant Farquhar, 13th October 2008.

Dill's Rocks

drevil — Wed, 15 Oct 2008 10:07:19 CDT

A nice deep water soloing venue although the water is only just deep enough at mid to high tide. Not advisable below mid tide. The climbs are sheltered and face south. This bay is found on North Shore Road approx 1 km from the junction with Spanish Point Road and just east of Deep Bay where there is a bus stop. At the point you will find some steps. Keep an eye our for the resident squadron of calamares. Try not to land on them.

Calamares of Dill's Rocks

SQUID SQUAD 5.10c 2002
A brilliant anti-clockwise circuit, taking the line of least resistance. Start traversing leftwards off the ledge into the bay along the obvious high line past a couple of thin sections (see pictures) to some big flat jugs and a shake-out in a scoop. The water is getting shallower the further in you go and is chest deep at high tide below the shake-out. Drop leftwards down the jugs to obvious large flat holds at water level. Traverse hard back right just above the water to regain the ledge.

SQUID VICIOUS 5.10c 2002
Climbs Squid Squad in reverse i.e. clockwise. From the ledge drop down and traverse left at sea-level to the big flat jugs at the base of the scoop. Move up to the shake-out in the scoop. Finish via the high traverse back rightwards to the ledge. Has the disadvantage of being low when fresh and high when pumped.

The Van Rensburg brothers tackle Squid Squad

SUICIDE SQUID 5.11a 2002
An extension to Squid Squad which is only possible at mid-tide. There is not enough water to land in at low tide and the foot holds are underwater at high tide. From the lowest flat holds at the end of the leftwards traverse, continue leftwards at water level round an alcove to a flat jug on the arête, shake out here then traverse back right to finish along Squid Squad. The continuation of this traverse all the way leftwards to the beach remains unclimbed.

The initial high leftwards traverse of Squid Squad stays dry in the rain

Bermuda Rock Climbing Topo Home

drevil — Tue, 14 Oct 2008 12:41:39 CDT

Wiki for the Bermuda rock climbing community.

If you have opened some new lines then please register and post the details.
Feel free to post comments about the existing routes or any aspects of the climbing in Bermuda.

For I am all the subjects that you have, Which first was mine own king:
and here you sty me In this hard rock, whiles you do keep from me The rest o' the island.
Caliban, The Tempest.

The rock here is very sharp and slightly soft limestone that tends to run to flat horizontal breaks. The most solid rock is called "Walsingham stone" and this is mainly found near Harrington Sound. Most of the climbing is on seacliffs (you are never far from the sea in Bermuda) and consists of beach bouldering, deep water soloing or sports climbing. If you are interested in the latter then feel free to contribute to the BOLT FUND. The focal point of the climbing scene is the outdoor climbing gym in Hamilton, The Olympic Club. The first ascents and photos were by myself (Grant Farquhar) unless otherwise indicated. Lengths of the deep water soloing routes refer to the max height above the water rather than the total length of climbing involved which is usually a lot longer e.g. Romantic Pottery has 35m of climbing but tops out 7m above sea level. This is not unusual for deep water soloing. All directions (left/right) are given for looking IN to the cliff from the sea. I have recently changed the grading system to the American one and a lot of the grades are uncomfirmed. When in doubt I have tried to err towards overgrading. For grade translations consult the grade comparison table.

The climbing is good but not world class. One of the major advantages of Bermuda however is accessibility. With only 20 square miles of land you never have to travel far and you can easily be diving in the morning, wakeboarding in the afternoon, climbing in the evening and then get a surf in before sunset.

BOULDERING
John Smith's Bay
Mid-Ocean Club

Windsor Beach
St George's
Astwood Cove

DEEP WATER SOLOING
Dill's Rocks
Deep Bay
Clarence Cove
White Grunt Hole
Hogfish Bay
Harrington Sound
The Great Sound

SPORTS CLIMBING
The Great Head

The Pump Room

Tsunami Wall
Abbot's Cliff
Mother Tuckers Wall
Dockyard

ROCK CLIMBING GYM
The Olympic Club

Warning and Disclaimer on Deep Water Soloing (DWS).

Deep water soloing refers to a specific climbing style which involves free climbing above water with only rockshoes and chalkbag. It is solo climbing relying on the water for protection from injury and to enjoy the freedom and movement of solo climbing in safety.There are many seacliffs in Bermuda where the rock is good but the water underneath is too shallow for deep water soloing. Shallow water soloing is not much different from soloing above the ground i.e. if you fall off then you are seriously injured or die. Deep Water Soloing requires at least 3m and preferably more of water underneath the landing zone. in order to avoid injury. There is approx 1m of water difference between high tide and low tide in the Sargasso sea, more at spring tides which occur at full and new moons and less at neap tides. Deep Water Soloing is safer at high tide for obvious reasons and some of the routes are not advisable below mid-tide. It is imperative to inspect the depth before getting on a project as the water is often a lot shallower than it appears. A mask and snorkel are therefore useful accessories to as many rockboots and chalkbags as you can get your hands on. The good news about that is the snorkelling is fabulous in Bermuda and there is loads to see. Although what you don’t want to see are Portugese Men O’ War or Cauliflower jellyfish, make sure there aren’t any under your chosen line, especially if the wind is onshore because the wind tends to bring them in. Even then bear in mind that even under perfect conditions and circumstances Deep Water Soloing is a stupid and perilous sport. Please don’t do it, you will probably get injured or die. All of the climbs recorded here are potentially dangerous and all or none of the information may be inaccurate. The contributors to this wiki accept no liability for anything.

Tide Times
Weather

Nick Strong is the man from Atlantis

Long Island

drevil — Mon, 13 Oct 2008 19:00:00 CDT

Long Island

is in the Great Sound and you get a good view of the cliffs on the North side from the Hamilton to Dockyard ferry. The cliffs are small but reasonaly goood.

XX 5.9 white arete right of cave

XX cliff

F 5.12

G 5.10

Hogfish Bay

drevil — Sat, 11 Oct 2008 20:37:18 CDT

Hogfish Bay lies to the west of Clarence Cove and the climbing area can be seen from the point west of the quay in Clarence Cove where the steps and caves are. From there you look across Hogfish Bay to the western point of it which is distinguished by an arch. Topo at the bottom of this page.

TROUBLE AND STRIFE 5.10b 10m 17th August 2006
Walk down to the platform on the seaward side of the arch in Hogfish Bay. Looking eastwards is an obvious overhanging pink streaked arête with green water below, the line of Night Dive. Step off the platform and traverse the lip of the east side of the arch leftwards to a knee-bar rest on the landward arête. Continue traversing leftwards at mid-height to the base of a ragged pockety crack. Finish up this. Beware the patch of reef underneath certain parts of the traverse. Definitely one for a high spring tide. Can also be started as for the following routes through the arch before moving up to the higher traverse at the exit of the arch in which case it is less tide dependent.

The remainder of the routes start by traversing west to east (leftwards) through the arch on the landward side.

BONSAI PIPELINE 5.11a 10m 22nd August 2006
Traverses the entire wall from right to left taking the least line of resistance. All of the following routes initially start along this before exiting at various points along the traverse. . Traverse in from the landward side of the arch eastwards underneath and through the arch. Continue traversing along the shelf to a no-hands rest in a cave. Move left to a slot beneath the arête and a knee-bar rest. Climb up and leftwards on the lip of the overhang to a horizontal rail and shake-out. Step leftwards to a good rest at the Bonsai tree. The traverse now continues at this level before grovelling up onto a no-hands resting ledge. From here it is possible to follow the ledge system easily up and left to finish. Although this finish is loose and above a lower ledge system and is therefore not recommended. If you don’t fancy this finish then it is possible to jump off into deep water after the grovel onto the ledge system. The best finish however is to climb Pidgin Politics.

Claire MacLeod on the initial traverse of Bonsai Pipeline

CLARK KENT 5.10a 10m Paul Van Rensburg, 2003
Follow Bonsai Pipeline through the arch and step left around the arête before climbing the wall to the top. There is a patch of reef in the vicinity of the landing zone so it’s best to climb at high tide and avoid uncontrolled high dives.

MRS PEDERSEN 5.11a 10m 24th June 2006
This route climbs the wall to the right of Night Dive. Follow Bonsai Pipeline to the no-hands rest. Undercut the lip of the cave and make tricky moves into friable territory (crux). Continue past amazing pockets to the top out via a thank god tree branch.

2nd ascent Fabian Gysi, 2008.

The Pederson Cleaner Shrimp that lives in the anenome underneath the eponymous route

NIGHT DIVE 5.11c 10m February 2003
An absolute mega-classic, one of the original and best DWS in Bermuda. It takes the obvious overhanging pink streaked arête which has a spectacular finale. Traverse in from the landward side of the arch eastwards through the arch. Continue traversing along the shelf to a no-hands rest in a cave. Continue left to a slot beneath the arête and a knee-bar rest. Climb initially on the left side of the arête before moving on to the front. Have it! Safe at any state of the tide although you will touch down (softly) on the sandy bottom at low tide and it is probably best to avoid springs low tide. Just ask Julius Caesar.

The second ascent of Night Dive, 2003

ATLANTIC BIRDMAN 5.11d 10m 4th May 2008

A direct variation on Night Dive. Follow the parent route to the no-hands rest in the cave and continue to the knee-bar slot at the base of the arete. In the wall above the slot, on the right hand side of the arete is an obvious large circular pocket. Use the pocket to get established on the arete and continue up this to finish as for Night Dive.

BLUE MEN OF THE MINCH 5.11c 9th July 2008

The right hand exit from the large circular pocket of Atlantic Birdman. Hit the pocket with your left hand before heading up rightwards to the thank god tree of Mrs Pederson.

GINGER STEPCHILD 5.11c 10m 5th July 2006
The lefthand finish to Night Dive. Good but nevertheless beaten by the parent route. Follow Night Dive to the slot beneath the arête. Climb initially as per Night Dive and then follow the shallow groove in the left side of the arête all the way to the top.

2nd ascent 4th July, 2008

About to experience Tortura Del Agua prior to the first ascent

TORTURA DEL AGUA 5.12a 31st May 2008
Excellent and sustained. Follow Bonsai Pipeline to gain the shake out at the horizontal rail where Bonsai Pipeline goes left and Ginger Stepchild goes straight up. Climb diagonally leftwards to make a long reach for a horizontal slot in steep territory. Continue directly to sloping holds in the vicinity of a thin white streak and then the top.

Contemplating the top out on Narcosis

NARCOSIS 5.11d 10m 3rd July 2006
The scooped headwall left of the arête of Night Dive. Has a tricky crux. There is reef lurking underneath but it’s fine at mid to high tide. Follow Bonsai Pipline to the bonsai tree. From a good rest at the tree blast straight up the ridiculously overhanging white streak to a sketchy top-out.

VERDIGRIS 5.11d 10m 10th April, 2008

Fantastic and exciting climbing. It takes the hanging mini white streak left of the broad white streak of Narcosis. Follow Bonsai Pipeline to the eponymous tree and a good rest. From the left side of the tree find some solid deep pockets and use these to commence a game of Russian Roullette with the Dirty Harry crimps in the friable rock which with a bit of luck will enable you to gain better holds in the white streak. Climb the white streak to the top. Do you feel lucky punk?

PIDGIN POLITICS 5.11b 10m 20th September 2006
Follow Bonsai Pipeline to the grovel onto the ledge, no-hands sit down rest amongst the pigeons. From the right hand end of the ledge head up and rightwards through some unbelievably friable territory. The previously interesting mantelshelf finish is now easier as some bonsai trees have grown within reaching distance of the top.

Davie Crawford going for the top out on Pidgin Politics

DEATH BY BONGO BONGO 5.11a 10m 9th May 2008

The low level traverse of the entire wall. Follow Bonsai Pipeline to the knee-bar rest of Night Dive. Climb down leftwards under the roof to look back out through the knee-bar slot from the inside. Crawl past the pigeons through a tunnel into the next cave. From the back of the cave climb the left wall outwards until it is possible to turn the left arete/roof and gain the outside wall. Continue traversing left at this level until it is possible to climb directly up to the ledge below Pidgin Politics. Best above mid-tide because of the reef below the final section. On the first ascent there was a recently savaged headless pigeon in the cave of Night Dive and a Portugese Man O'War directly underneath the ledge of Pidgin Politics. Decapitated pigeon Jellyfish soloing, the latest "extreme" sport?

Mother Tuckers Wall

drevil — Wed, 03 Sep 2008 13:00:10 CDT

Another area with potential for sports climbing. This 15m seacliff of good quality overhanging limestone lies midway between Tuckers Point Club Beach and Windsor Beach in Tucker's Town. Access is problematic because the land above the crag is private.

Windsor Beach

drevil — Thu, 17 Jul 2008 17:20:47 CDT

There is some good looking bouldering potential at the west end of this beach. The rock is good, the landings are sandy and low tide is required. Get to it!

White Grunt Hole

drevil — Fri, 27 Jun 2008 15:38:59 CDT

Fabian Gysi attempting his project in White Grunt Hole

White Grunt Hole is the home of the impressive white arete across the bay from the dock at Clarence Cove. This was attempted in 2007 by Ward Byrum.

Unfortunately this line is not viable and I do not recommend that anybody tries to solo it. The water underneath the landing zone is only waist deep at low tide and chest deep at high tide and therefore will not protect a fall beyond the first third of the line. The middle third of the line unfortunately has rock with the consistency of cheese. All the holds fall off and a bolt I placed sheared out under bodyweight loading. The top third of the route has good rock but is guarded by the choss below

Pics courtesy of Leila Wadson of Ward Byrum attempting to DWS the white grunt arete

Abbot's Cliff

drevil — Fri, 27 Jun 2008 15:38:12 CDT

Has some extensive areas of good quality rock and looks highly promising. There is definitely potential for lower grade trad and sports routes.

There is a steep path leading down from the west side of the rim. Beware of idiots throwing stuff off the top as like most areas of outstanding natural beauty in Bermuda this one is used as a rubbish dump and a lot of bikes have been trundled off the top and now rust in pieces at the base of the cliff.

The Pump Room

drevil — Fri, 20 Jun 2008 14:52:51 CDT

The Pump Room is a cave found just to the south of The Great Head in St David's. From the car park at the gun battery, find the purple brick path which eventually leads to the monument for those lost at sea. From the metal gate, follow the purple path for approximately 20 yards at which point it starts to gently curve to the left. Duck into the bushes to the right to find a path (not obvious). If you are doing some serious bushwacking then you are off route. Follow the path down through the jungle which appears to have been made by Hobbits past a fallen tree. Eventually the path starts to go back uphill. Around this point take a 90 degree left branch and follow this steeply downhill to clear the jungle. At this point you should be able to see The Pump Room straight ahead. Follow the path down some steps and a short but easy downclimb to ledges at sea-level.This cliff has the best rock of any climbing area so far developed in Bermuda and there is potential for some very hard routes. Watch out for the bee's nest at the far right of the cliff.

AHAB 5.11b 10m 24th April 2008 Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi

Very steep pumpy climbing on massive jugs, this line starts left of the mouth of the (very deep) cave and follows the pale streak to finish directly above the cave. Campus and heel-hook past five threads to an in-situ lower off. 11b but feels like 12b if the humidity is high

QUEEQUEG 5.8 10m 13th April 2008

This trad protected climb takes the buttress left of the cave on very good white rock. Start from the ledge below the cave. Traverse leftwards off the ledge with instant exposure to climb the white streak past a massive thread (good luck threading it). At the top it is probably best to arrange protection and then move right to lower off the belay of the previous route

St George's

drevil — Thu, 01 May 2008 18:28:37 CDT

Tobacco Bay

THIRD IMPRESSION V2 November 2002
Climb out of the obvious small cave behind the bay via a jug in an impending wall.
Originally done with a sit down start but this has since disintegrated to the point that a standing start is necessary

North Coast of St George's
There is loads of rock here and some of it looks good.Originally

Mid-Ocean Club Bouldering

drevil — Tue, 29 Apr 2008 06:08:28 CDT

There are many bouldering opportunities down the beach from Mid-Ocean beach club in Tucker’s Town. Head for what’s left of the arches and then walk west down the beach. The first area is a steep little wall with some nice traversing and up-routes. Sometimes this wall can be practically buried if the sand level is high. Continue down to the end of the beach and you will find the next area.

SEX SCANDAL V5 7th October 2006
The overhanging arête facing back up the beach. Start on the right hand side of the arete below some obvious monos. Use crimps and smears to latch better holds on the arête. Climb this to jugs.

Sex Scandal

The next area lies around the corner in the next bay and is only accessible at low tide. There are at least 3 good lines in the steep cave on the right-hand side of the bay. Highball but with good rock and sandy landings. Developed by Bryan Caldwell and Ward Byrum.

BOLT FUND

drevil — Mon, 07 Apr 2008 07:51:00 CDT

Beacause of the maritime environment in Bermuda, the only anchors which will have safety in longevity are these;

USHBA TORTUGA GLUE-IN BOLT
	Titanium is the best structural material for anchor bolts placed in marine or corrosive environments. Unlike steel bolts, the Tortuga is virtually immune to attack from seawater and galvanic corrosion. The Tortuga Glue-In is the only responsible choice for seaside anchor projects. Take pride in your seaside route by investing in the safest, most cost-effective climbing anchor.
Unfortunately, they are very expensive bolts at $25 each. So for example to equip Bensalem with them will cost in excess of $250. Here is a video of how to place glue-in bolts with glue capsules, although he neglects to countersink the eye which is necessary to prevent the bolt rotating under force. The routes are currently equipped with stainless steel expansion bolts which are prone to corrosion and will only be safe for about 1 year. If you want to support sport climbing in Bermuda then please contribute to the bolt fund via Sean Kelly, Bryan Caldwell at The Olympic Club or myself, Grant Farquhar and we will put the money towards the installation of reliable anchors. Please contact me if you wish to borrow the drill in order to equip routes.

Grade Comparison Table

drevil — Fri, 28 Mar 2008 14:31:26 CDT

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