Bermuda Rock Climbing Topo - Recently Updated Pages

Tsunami Wall

drevil — Thu, 22 Oct 2009 14:03:21 CDT

Fabian Gysi on Journey to the Centre of the Earth. (Rope hanging down La Cucaracha). Photo Chris Burville

THE MANGINA FROM ATLANTIS 5.11a 15m

This route climbs the groove and headwall left of the pillar of Kanagawa. It is possible but unsporting to escape the line leftwards in places. Start from the window underneath the pillar. Climb up into the groove/cave feature and bridge and palm up this to gain good holds over the lip. Finish rightwards up the spectacular headwall on massive incut holds. 3 threads protect. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 12th March 2009

Davie Crawford on Kanagawa. Photo Grant Farquhar.

KANAGAWA 5.11d 15m

This flyweight looking number packs a heavyweight punch. It takes the beautiful pillar forming the left hand side of the main cave. The move past the first bolt is the crux and it keeps you on your toes until the bell. Punch past 3 more bolts and duck the KO at the large thread to top out in the apex of the cave. Belay bolts on the edge of the large skylight. Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi 11th October, 2008. Re-equipped with titanium glue-in bolts 22/10/9.

Grant Farquhar on the FA of La Cucaracha. Photo Davie Crawford.

LA CUCARACHA 5.11a 15m
Grab your sombrero and dance your way to the skylight above. This route takes the left side of the vertical wall in the main Tsunami cave. Start just right of the pillar taken by Kanagawa. Sustained face climbing & bridging leads to a brief respite, before a tricky top out. It is unusual for a Bermuda route with thin moves on generally small holds. A huge, unimpressed cockroach spectated on the FA near the top. 4 bolts. Belay on bolts at top. Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 1st February, 2009

Heading for the light on Journey. Photo Davie Crawford
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JOURNEY TO THE CENTRE OF THE EARTH 5.12a 25m

A meandering journey through very overhanging territory in the steep wall which forms the right hand side of the main cave to eventually finish through the large square skylight in the apex of the cave. Climb up, left and inwards past 9 bolts and 8 threads to the final bolt on the south wall of the skylight. Hand traverse the east side of the lip to gain the bolt and thread belay on the north side. Watch out for the hanger on the 7th bolt which has a penchant for unscrewing itself. Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi, 14th December, 2008

Fabian Gysi nearing the end of the Journey. Photo Davie Crawford
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3RD DEGREE BURNS NIGHT 5.12a 15m

This is the central line in the steep right hand wall of the cave. From the base of Journey climb past 4 threads and 4 bolts to the top. Stalagtite wrestling interspersed with no-hands rests. Belay on a thread on the lip backed up by the bolt on the edge of the large skylight. Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi 24th January, 2009

UNDER THE VOLCANO 5.12a 15m

This brilliant route gives 3 star climbing through wildly overhanging tufa festooned territory following the direct line of 7 bolts and 2 threads in the steep wall right of 3rd Degree Burns Night. Belay on a bolt and in-situ thread over the lip.
Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi 11th October, 2008. Is currently being re-equipped with titanium bolts.

Grant Farquhar on an ascent of Under the Volcano. Photo Davie Crawford
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CUMBRAE VIEJA 5.11d 15m

Is the substance of the first of the pillars of wisdom right of the main cave. Climb the pillar past 2 titanium glue-in bolts, 2 stainless steel expansion bolts and 3 threads. Bolt and thread belays over the lip. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 30th November, 2008. Equipped with Titanium bolts 8th March, 2009.
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SUNDOGS 5.12b 15m

Bermuda's answer to Raindogs is the left hand finish to Cumbrae Vieja. Follow Cumbrae Vieja to a rest at the large stalctite with a thread in it. Clip the titanium bolt above and head diagonally leftwards on steep ground via 2 bolts past the blobby stalactite.
Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 19th March, 2009
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Topo of the Tsunami Wall cave area courtesy of Grant Farquhar.

AURICLE WALL 5.10a 15m
The 2nd pillar, with its intimidating capping roof, provides tremendous climbing. Climb the pillar and wall, via a curious ear-like flake, to the obvious climax! (3 in- situ threads and 2 bolts). Davie Crawford & Eloise Pitts Crick 14th December, 2008

Davie Crawford and Eloise Pitts Crick on the first ascent of Auricle Wall. Photo James Whittaker.

SUBSONIC WAVE 5.7 15m
An excellent line on perfect rock, this route takes the 3rd pillar. Steep moves up the pillar lead to an easing at a tufa formation. 3 bolts and 2 in- situ threads. Belay on a tree 5m back. Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 23rd October, 2008

Davie Crawford on an ascent of Auricle Wall. Photo Grant Farquhar.

The 4th (and final) 'shark fin' pillar on this section of the crag provides the following 2 routes (one on each side of the pillar, meeting to a common finish).

EL TERREMOTO 5.7 15m
The left hand side of the fin provides a couple of nippy moves past a bolt. An easing at around half- way leads to a finish over a small roof. 1 bolt & 2 in situ threads. Belay on a tree 5m back.
Davie Crawford, 2nd ascent Bryan Caldwell, 3rd ascent Caroline Stockdale 12 January, 2009

Bryan Caldwell on the 2nd ascent of Aleta del Tiburon, Caroline Stockdale en belay. Photo Davie Crawford.

ALETA DEL TIBURON 5.8 15m
The better of the two 'shark fin' routes featuring some interesting wall climbing on tufas and small pockets near the start. This route takes the attractive right hand side of the fin and joins with El Terremoto at the half way mark for the same finish. 1 bolt & 3 in- situ threads. Belay on a tree 5m back. FA Davie Crawford, 2nd ascent Bryan Caldwell 12 January, 2009

Tsunami Wall topo courtesy of Davie Crawford

Clarence Cove

weedavie — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 17:58:17 CDT

This and the neighbouring Hogfish Bay are the most exciting deep water solo venues in Bermuda. If you are standing where this photo was taken, the climbs in Clarence Cove are behind your left shoulder. Google Map.

West of the dock in Clarence Cove are some man made caves which end on Hogfish point from where many a fine night dive has been started. West again is Hogfish Bay which has an arch at its western tip.

The climbs lie below the stone pinnacle, in the bay formed between the dock and the point. Here you will find a massive roof system bounded by the twin ribs of Lara Croft and Romantic Pottery. The routes are safe at any state of the tide with the odd exception that is mentioned in the description. Unless otherwise indicated, first ascents and photos by Grant Farquhar. Topo at the foot of the page.

The crux of Ambergris

AMBERGRIS 5.10d 50m sea-level traverse 15th October 2006
A very good DWS traverse which was originally climbed right to left but is now more usually done left to right. It is equally good in either direction. Start from ledges east of the little stone pinnacle atop the cliff in Clarence Cove. Scramble down to sea-level. Start traversing westward (right) to a cave and continue below the overhanging arete of Lara Croft (crux) to gain ledges below massive overhangs. Climb westwards around the overhanging arete of Romantic Pottery and continue to gain a no hands rest on a ledge. The next section leads into the mouth of the cave system and is fairly cramped territory. The cave system leads to steps. Safe at all tide states except spring low tide.

Variation Finish#1: Continue traversing beyond the caves to the point. March 2003 (this was the original start to Romantic Pottery).

Variation Finish#2: THE BAR PET FINISH 5.11c 6th June 2009
Finding Ambergris a bit too easy? When you get to the no-hands resting ledge at the mouth of the caves, start up Barotrauma, step right into Petra and reverse this to the ledge on the other side of the caves. Step around the arete to the porthole and finish up Captain Caveman.

Fabian Gysi on the traverse of Ambergris
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LARA CROFT 5.11a 10m 18th October 2006
A perfect DWS route. Good rock above deep water with the crux at the very top. Named because it is feisty and gymnastic with big jugs. This brilliant line takes the left hand twin pillar in the bay. Follow Ambergris to a cave and ledge just before the pillar. Fight onto the front of the pillar before licking the final groove into submission. Safe.

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Fabian Gysi preparing to enter the groove of Lara Croft.

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SINISTER SISTER 5.11b 10m 30th April 2009
The left hand finish to Lara Croft forms her evil twin. High tide is required due to the reef shelf underneath the finale. Start as for Lara Croft and follow her to the handrail below the crux groove. Hand traverse to the left hand side of the rail and climb the flying arete to a crumbly finish left of the stone pinnacle. It is highly recommended to snorkel first and inspect the landing zone.

Nick Strong attempts to seduce Lara Croft

Nick Strong grappling with Lara Croft's jugs before being rejected

LEUKOSIA 5.11d 10m 15th August 2008

This route answers the siren call of the white wall right of Lara Croft. Start from the bottom of Lara Croft (ooer missus!). Step right directly above the crux of Ambergris to climb the steep wall on good but spaced pockets to a shake out on the traverse of White Guilt. Follow this leftwards to finish up Lara Croft.
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LATS LACTIC OCEAN 5.12a 10m 9th Sep 2008

This route offers no new climbing but gives the most sustained link up on the wall. Start as for Leukosia then reverse White Guilt into Song to the Siren. Continue along this to finish up Atlantis.

Bryan Caldwell tries his luck with Lara

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SONG TO THE SIREN 5.11c 10m 27th July 2008

An indirect extended start to the classic line of Atlantis. Follow Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the left hand side of the deepest cave, climb through the roof to gain a shake out at two deep pockets over the lip. Traverse horizontally rightwards to gain the niche of Atlantis and finish up this.
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WHITE GUILT 5.11d 10m 9th August 2008

Excellent climbing linking the start of Song to the Siren to the finish of Lara Croft. From the deep pockets traverse leftwards to join Lara Croft just before the crux.

Ward Byrum on Atlantis. Photo Alex Hammond

ATLANTIS 5.11b 10m 21st October 2006
Amazing climbing through stupendous horizontal territory. Follow Ambergris and battle past Lara Croft to ledges beneath the massive overhangs. From the right hand side of the deepest cave make long moves up to a niche. Climb rightwards out of this with difficulty to a good hold and step right to a semi-rest. Pull directly through the final overhang to the consternation of the BBQ makers above. During the Bermuda Climbers Keep Bermuda Beautiful marine clean up on 19/9/9 there was noted to be a 6 foot long green moray eel living in a hole underneath Atlantis.

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Exiting the niche of Atlantis
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LOST CITY 5.12a 10m
A dramatic finale to Atlantis. Follow Atlantis to the good hold where it goes right under the final ceiling. Instead of moving right, leap wildly through the roof to a good hold on the lip followed by an horrendous mantelshelf.

First and subsequent numerous ascents by Ward Byrum, 2007. First non Ward ascent by Grant Farquhar, 6th Aug 2008
Video of a Ward ascent with a... 'variation finish' here-
http://www.flickr.com/photos/23422843@N02/2744952811/

Another Video of Atlantis and Lost City here
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A shark's eye view of Ward Byrum heading for the Lost City finish to Atlantis
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BATHOS PARTY 5.11b 10m 27th March 2008
Start as for Atlantis but continue along the traverse past the start of this to ledges beneath the next cave which is bounded on the right by the overhanging rib of Romantic Pottery. Directly above is the ceiling below the final traverse of Atlantis which has a flange hold in the underside. Climb steeply on big jugs to grasp the flange hold and use this to gain the lip of the roof. Rock over onto the wall above to join Atlantis and finish as for this.

ROMANTIC POTTERY 5.10c 10m March 2003
Climbs the right-hand twin pillar in the bay. Follow Ambergris to an overhanging rib with massive roofs to the left. Climb steeply up the rib staying left of the obvious rock scar to join the finishing moves of Atlantis.

Tristan DeSilva pulls a big hold off Romantic Pottery
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GANDHI ON CRACK 5.10d 8m 10th September 2008

This eliminate route climbs the grey overhanging wall between the rib of Romantic Pottery and the wall plugged by The Enema Bandit. From the base of the rib of Romantic Pottery step right and climb steeply up on grey pockety rock right of the rock scar. Avoid escapes onto neighbouring routes and continue directly until a horizontal break and hand jam is attained just below the slabby topout which is surprisingly difficult. Summon the power of Gandhi after hitting his crackpipe and levitate to the top.
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THE ENEMA BANDIT 5.10c 8m
This excellent route climbs the steep rib left of Enema of the State. Follow Ambergris along the traverse past the rib of Romantic Pottery and a thin section to gain a crucial large incut pocket on the traverse before Enema of the State. Alternatively, step left from the ledge at the base of Enema of the State to the same point. From the incut pocket, climb directly on good holds through steep territory to latch an obvious triangular orange jug. If you manage to avoid the bandit then continue directly to the left hand side of the broad niche and then the top. Direct start (as described) Davie Crawford 12th August 2009, Original start (via Scottish Mating Call) Grant Farquhar 18th April 2009
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ENEMA OF THE STATE 5.10b 7m 24th October 2006
This route is very good and on excellent rock. Start as for Ambergris. Follow the traverse of Ambergris around the overhanging arete of Romantic Pottery and continue to gain a no hands rest on a ledge before the mouth of the caves. Step up to a proud incut jug at the base of the pale overhanging orange streaked wall. Climb the wall to a broad niche feature and the top. Safe at all tide states except spring low tide. First non- Farquhar ascent by Davie Crawford 18th April 2009.
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SCOTTISH MATING CALL 5.10d 7m 28th April 2009
A diagonal traverse from the ledge at the base of Enema of the State to finish as for Atlantis. Start up Enema of the State to the proud incut jug. Traverse diagonally leftwards on slopers to an obvious triangular orange jug (on The Enema Bandit), continue leftwards across Gandhi on Crack to join Romantic Pottery and finish as for Atlantis.

SYCOPHANT 5.11c 7m 31st May 2009
The right hand finish to Enema of the State gives intense pumpy climbing. In the very overhanging wall right of Enema of the State is a prominent brown nose of rock. Start up Enema of The State to pay your compliments to the proud incut jug. Kowtow one move up to a sloping horizontal rail. Flatter your way rightwards along the rail to the brown nose. Attain a standing position on the nose and top out obsequiously.

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The first ascent of Barotrauma
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BAROTRAUMA 5.11b 7m 7th November 2006
Strenuous climbing through the ceiling above the cave exit. Follow Ambergris to a no-hands rest on the ledge below the orange streaked wall of Enema of the State. Continue along the traverse for a few moves to the arete at the mouth of the cave. Make strenuous moves rightwards through horizontal territory above the mouth of the cave to top out via a bonsai tree. 2nd ascent 7th May, 2009.Video here.
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Elena Whitburn nee Ovchinnikova on Petra, husband Paul in the water
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PETRA 5.11b 7m
Tackles the right hand side of the cave entrance. Gain ledges under the west side of the cave from the cave itself. Climb diagonally leftwards on steep ground above the cave to finish via the bonsai tree above the mouth of the cave. Fabian Gysi 30th August 2008. 2nd ascent 3rd Sep 2008.
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Variation Finish#1: Move left at the top into the circular cave feature and finish above. Fabian Gysi September 2008.

Note- Petra is the most reliable DWS route for difficult conditions on the North Shore. It is easily accesible via the port hole from the main cave. It is safe in any tide. The morning sun dries the moisture after heavy rain, it doesn't seep and it doesn't get soaked in choppy seas. No excuses- get on it!
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Elena Whitburn nee Ovchinnikova vs Petra
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Variation Finish#2: PETRAUMA 5.11c 10m 14th May 2009
This variation on Petra provides a lip trip above the cave entrance. Start up Petra and move left along the lip into Barotrauma. Reverse this to the no-hands ledge at sea-level.
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Elena Whitburn nee Ovchinnikova topping out on Petra
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EMPEROR MING 5.12a 5m 25th April 2009
Will grant you an audience under the horizontal roof left of Captain Caveman. Beware because he doesn't tolerate mistakes, one false move and he will feed you to the sharks. Even Gordon would be doing well to Flash this. From the starting port hole of Captain Caveman step around the rib to the east to gain ledges. Follow the line of holds out through the large ceiling to gain a projecting jug on the lip and then the top. Takes a few days to dry after rain otherwise the penultimate holds will be covered in merciless ming.
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Davie Crawford attempting Captain Caveman in Clarence Cove.
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CAPTAIN CAVEMAN 5.11a 5m
Right of Petra is a large horizontal roof. Below the roof is a port hole which accesses the main cave.
Start in the west side of the port hole. Climb the very steep, undercut rib to an obvious impasse at the horizontal roof. Using caveman powers, thug your way over the roof and finish to the cheers of the Teen Angels (Brenda, Dee Dee & Taffy). Davie Crawford 19th September 2008. 2nd and 3rd and 4th ascents by Grant Farquhar, Davie Crawford and Fabian Gysi 20th September 2008
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Davie Crawford gets clubbed by Captain Caveman.
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UNGA BUNGA 5.9 4m 12th August 2009
This short but sharp route climbs the steep wall and groove between the roof of Captain Caveman and the point. Gain a no hands resting ledge either by stepping east under the rib of Captain Caveman or by traversing west from the point. From the ledge climb steeply up and leftwards to jugs in the groove right of the roof system. Top out directly above.
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Clarence Cove topo, looking from east to west, some routes not marked.

Graded List

drevil — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 16:41:27 CDT

SPORTS CLIMBS

Bogeyman 5.12c
Sundogs 5.12b
3rd Degree Burns Night 5.12a
Journey to the Centre of the Earth 5.12a
Under the Volcano 5.12a
Kanagawa 5.11d
Cumbrae Vieja 5.11d
Crackhouse 5.11c
Ahab 5.11b
Bathsheba 5.11b
Pump Lovin Criminals 5.11a
La Cucaracha 5.11a
The Mangina from Atlantis 5.11a
Bensalem 5.10d
Nymphetamine 5.10d
Scarface 5.10c
The Only Gay in the Village 5.10b
Auricle Wall 5.10a
Xantho 5.9
The Prow of the Pequod 5.9
Poseidon 5.8
Aleta Del Tiburon 5.8
Queequeg 5.8
Subsonic Wave 5.7
El Terremoto 5.7
The Prow of the Pequod RH start 5.6

DEEP WATER SOLOS

Emperor Ming 5.12a
Lats Lactic Ocean 5.12a
Lost City 5.12a
Tortura Del Agua 5.12a
White Guilt 5.11d
Leukosia 5.11d
Nitrogen Narcosis 5.11d
Verdigris 5.11d
Narcosis 5.11d
Arch Enema 5.11d
Atlantic Birdman 5.11d
Butt Plug 5.11c
Enema Territory 5.11c
Sycophant 5.11c
Night Dive 5.11c
Ginger Stepchild 5.11c
Petrauma 5.11c
Bar Pet 5.11c
Blue Men of the Minch 5.11c
Song to the Siren 5.11c
Nitrogen 5.11c
Atlantis 5.11b
Mishima 5.11b
Go Rin No Sho 5.11b
Sinister Sister 5.11b
Petra 5.11b
Barotrauma 5.11b
Pidgin Politics 5.11b
Bathos Party 5.11b
Biggus Dickus 5.11b
Bonsai Pipeline 5.11a
Death by Bongo Bongo 5.11a
Lara Croft 5.11a
Captain Caveman 5.11a
Suicide Squid 5.11a
Mrs Pedersen 5.11a
The Sound of Summer 5.11a
The Eye of the Storm 5.10d
Deep in Dis Pear 5.10d
Kamikaze Sex Ninja 5.10d
Pontius Pirate 5.10d
Gandhi on Crack 5.10d
Ambergris 5.10d
Into the Labyrinth 5.10d
Monkey Magic 5.10d
Scottish Mating Call 5.10d
Kendo 5.10d
Deep Down in Dis Custard 5.10c
Vayu 5.10c
Squid Vicious 5.10c
Squid Squad 5.10c
Romantic Pottery 5.10c
The Enema Bandit 5.10c
Journey to the West 5.10c
Shark Oil 5.10c
Climb of the Century 5.10c
Judo 5.10c
Rab C Nesbitt........Race 5.10c
Karate Kid 5.10c
Yakuza 5.10c
Aikijitsu 5.10c
Niu Bi 5.10c
Ni Su Yao Fang Pi 5.10c
The Poacher 5.10c R
Trammel Net 5.10c R
Gweilo 5.10c R
Trouble and Strife 5.10b
Enema of the State 5.10b
Fujin 5.10b
Craic Heads 5.10b
Kitsune 5.10b
Beaufart Scale 5.10b
Nippon 5.10b
The Eighteen...Triathlon 5.10b
Certain Death 5.10b X
The Ninth Wave 5.10b R
Ruben 5.10b X
Ride the Tsunami 5.10a R
Full Fathom Five Ten 5.10a
The Hold Ma Kebab...5.10a
Grunt's Traverse 5.10a
Abaho Los Pantalones 5.10a R
Shotokan 5.10a
Clark Kent 5.10a
Happy Clappers 5.9
Strip the Willow 5.9
Demented Jesus Nun 5.9
Tropical Depression 5.9
The Seventh Pillar of Wisdom 5.9 R
Unga Bunga 5.9
Rat Tail 5.9
Banzai 5.9
Tom Moore's Arete 5.9
Dragon King 5.9
Tripitaka's Travels 5.9
Kerchak 5.9
Mangani 5.9
Bushido 5.9
Skol 5.9 (R)
Aleta Del Tiburon 5.8 R
Lord of the Treefrogs 5.8
Tarzan 5.8
Hurricane Force 5.8
Monkey Love 5.8
Mujina 5.8
Tickled Trout 5.8
Dashing White Sergeant 5.8 R
Super Lager Marlboro Marathon 5.8 R
Cyclone Crack 5.8
The Buckfast Biathlon 5.8 R
El Terremoto 5.7 R
Guddle A Guppy 5.7
Tres Gringos Locos 5.7 R
Huevos Grandes 5.7 R
Neds Kru Sprint 5.7 R
Agar the Horrible 5.7 R
Pigsy 5.7
Sandy 5.7
Kameosa 5.7
Inebriation Across De Nation 5.7 R
The Eighth Pillar of Foolishness 5.7 R
Tom Moore's Traverse 5.7
Kala 5.7
Katana 5.7
Shojo 5.7
Purloin My Perch 5.7
Zigzag Arete 5.7 R
Deep Fried Mars Bar 5.7
Elephant Dung 5.7
Look at the Size of my Trunk (Island) 5.7
Gay Gordons 5.6 R
Sunflowers 5.6

St David's

drevil — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 16:36:41 CDT

THE GREAT HEAD

Warning and disclaimer on the fixed protection. This is not a climbing gym, climb at your own risk.
The sports climbs in Bermuda have been equipped with stainless steel expansion bolts and in-situ threads. In general the protection points are placed in the spots where the rock is the most reliable. However the nature of the limestone here varies and some of the placements are unavoidably in the softer rock and so the protection will not be as strong as it would be when placed in harder rock. The reliability of the anchors is therefore not guaranteed. In addition all in-situ protection is liable to deteriorate over time. The expansion bolts are prone to stainless steel corrosion. The threads are prone to wear and tear. The lifespan of these type of anchor in this location will only be about 1 to 2 years max and so it is important to visually inspect the condition of the anchors when climbing. We are planning to re-equip all expansion bolts with titanium glue-in bolts. Threads will need to be replaced every so often. Unless otherwise indicated, assume the threads date from the first ascent of the route. When routes are re-equipped it will be recorded in the wiki. Likewise please note any observations of dubious in-situ protection.

The Great Head. Noun or adjective? You decide. Anyway, this is easily the biggest and most impressive cliff on the island. It is in a very spectacular location gazing east across the Atlantic towards The Azores and is set off by the guns of the battery above. The large rockfall visible in the picture occurred sometime between 2003 and 2006. Longtails do nest in many of the other cliffs in Bermuda but do not seem to favour this one. None of the routes described below have longtail nests on or them or in their vicinity. The nesting season is from April to October which are generally poor months for sports climbing anyway due to the high heat and humidity. Please stay well away from any nest sites during the nesting season.

Looking north over the Great Cave towards The Scarface and Nereids Wall

BENSALEM CAVE

From the gun battery find steps leading down to an old searchlight station above sea level at the south end of the cliff.

BENSALEM 5.10d 20m

PROBABLY NOT SAFE TO CLIMB UNTIL RE-EQUIPPED
This excellent climb takes a spectacular lip trip above the sea cave in the south end of the cliff.Scramble across easy ledges to the base of the obvious white band of rock. Belay here on a new bolt and a thread amongst very poor rusty old bolts. Follow the rising white band of rock up and rightwards above the cave past 8 bolts to an in-situ belay at the top of the cliff. Either lower off and belay your second from the ledges on the other side of the cave or top out and belay from above. Take extra care with the large Damoclean flake at the last bolt. Don't let anyone stand directly underneath the lower-off when the route is being climbed in case this flake gets pulled off.
Grant Farquhar & Bryan Caldwell 8th March 2008
Second ascent and first Bermudian ascent by Sean Kelly & Tristan DeSilva, 2008

Sean Kelly and Tristan Desilva on the first Bermudian ascent of Bensalem. Photo Claudia
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THE ONLY GAY IN THE VILLAGE 5.10b 20m
Tackles the white streak in the arete right of the Bensalem cave. The handholds and footholds are very fragile in places but the protection placements are in sound rock. Mince past 3 bolts and 3 threads. Take the no-hands rest in the closet at the final thread before coming out to run it out up the pink streak in the immac headwall. Bolt and natural thread belays.
Grant Farquhar & Bryan Caldwell, 20th June 2008

BATHSHEBA 5.11b 20m

The excellent left hand finish to The Only Gay in the Village has some pumpy climbing in a very spectacular position on the overhanging prow above the cave. Follow The Only Gay in the Village to the no-hands rest in the closet. ***** leftwards past 2 bolts and a thread to gain the bolt and fence belay above Bensalem.

Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford, 18th January 2009

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In the section of cliff between the Bensalem Cave and the Great Cave there are 3 caves at mid-height. The next route gains the curious little middle cave which has some old paraphenelia
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SMUGGLERS ROUTE 5.6 10m
Climb the runnel to check out the curious phone booth sized flowstone cave. Reverse the route to the ground. FA unknown.

THE GREAT CAVE

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The next area is the massive central cave in the middle of the cliff. Approach from the south or north. Both directions require some 5.7 soloing in serious positions. If coming from the south it is possible to utilise the belay at the base of Bensalem to protect the short but steep and serious downclimb. Alternatively, abseil in from the belay at the top of Bensalem.
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Sean Kelly in The Crackhouse
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CRACKHOUSE 5.11c 20m
Get your fix by inhaling the left-hand line in the steep wall on the right hand side of the cave. Head near the obvious crack. Expect excessive consumption of white powder past 5 bolts and 6 threads to a 2 bolt and thread belay at a no-hands resting ledge on a plinth. The come down begins here.
Grant Farquhar & Sean Kelly, 6th April 2008. Ground Control from Eloise Pitts Crick, Katie Kent & Paul Van Rensburg.
Second ascent on-sight flashed in midsummer sauna conditions by Ward Byrum, 7th August 2008.
Re-equipped with marine grade stainless steel glue-in bolts on 17/10/9. Original threads still good and left in-situ. Would the next person up please transfer the lower offs on the belay from the old expansion bolts to the new glue-ins.
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Nearing the belay on the first ascent of Crackhouse
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BOGEYMAN 20m 5.12c

This monster lurks under the right hand side of the cave. Start under the right hand equipped line in this steep section of the cliff. Climb past 8 threads and 4 bolts to the 2 bolt and thread belay. Grant Farquhar & Eloise Pitts Crick, 27th November 2008

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Equipping Bogeyman prior to the first ascent. Photo Davie Crawford.
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Central Cave topo

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THE SCARFACE
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The area of cliff to the right of the large white rock scar has one route.
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SCARFACE 30m 5.10c
You wanna play games? Okay, I'll play with you. You wanna play rough? Okay! Say hello to my little friend! The striking orange stalactite gives superb pumpy climbing ************! You think you can take me! You're gonna need a ******* army to take me, you hear! You **** with me, you ******' with the best! If you don't clip the 8 threads, you die, ************! Who put the threads in? Me, that's who! Who do I trust? Me! The large gun in the bunker 30m back from the top provides a belay which is literally bombproof ************! You got that? All I have in this world is my balls and my word, and I don't break 'em for no one. You understand?
Grant Farquhar, Davie Crawford & Tony Montana 18/10/9

Nereids Wall

The impressive vertical wall at the north end of the cliff. Access ledges at the base from steps leading down to the old searchlight station at the north end of the cliff. The Nereids were fifty sea nymphs who were the patrons of sailors and fishermen. They came to the aid of men in distress and were also the caretakers of the sea's rich bounty. Individually they represent various facets of the sea from salty brine to foam, sand, rocky shores, waves and currents. Together with the Tritons they form the retinue of Poseidon.
The routes are described from Right to Left.

XANTHO 25m 5.9

The obvious central groove gives a 3 star jugfest. Climb past 8 in-situ threads to bolt and fence belays at the top. It is possible to place additional natural thread runners en route if so desired. Eloise Pitts Crick & Grant Farquhar, 11th December 2008
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Grant Farquhar on the FA of Poseidon. Photo Davie Crawford.
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POSEIDON 25m 5.8
The left-most groove on the vertical section of Nereids Wall gives a truly brilliant route for all you sea nymphs. Start a few metres right of the roof (Nymphetamine), below an obvious direct line equipped with 7 in- situ threads. Steep moves passing a Bonsai tree lead to the eye- catching upper groove, with quality rock and interesting climbing all the way. Thank your gods for the solid thread and fence belay above (take 2 slings to arrange the belay).
Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 17th January 2009

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Grant Farquhar on the FA of Nymphetamine. Photo Julie Crawford.
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NYMPHETAMINE 25m 5.10d

Climbs the groove in the steep buttress of good rock above the bad step in the sea level platform. Climb past 4 threads through the bulge to a ledge. Take the final buttress directly past 2 threads to a thread belay on the edge of the wall. Scramble off rightwards.

Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 14th February 2009

BOLT FUND

drevil — Sat, 17 Oct 2009 10:10:53 CDT

Because of the maritime environment in Bermuda, the only anchors which will have safety in longevity are these;

Fixe Marine Glue-In Bolts

A316 Marine Grade Stainless
#014-M - 10x80mm
12mm or 1/2" hole required
Buy them here

Or even better (but twice as expensive);

USHBA TORTUGA GLUE-IN BOLT
	"Titanium is the best structural material for anchor bolts placed in marine or corrosive environments. Unlike steel bolts, the Tortuga is virtually immune to attack from seawater and galvanic corrosion. The Tortuga Glue-In is the only responsible choice for seaside anchor projects. Take pride in your seaside route by investing in the safest, most cost-effective climbing anchor". 11mm or 7/16" hole required Buy them here.
Here is a video of how to place glue-in bolts with glue capsules. Guide to placing glue-in bolts on the FIXE website. Most of the routes are currently equipped with stainless steel expansion bolts which are prone to corrosion and will only be safe for about 1 to 2years. Re-equipping is in progress and will be recorded on the wiki. If you want to support sport climbing in Bermuda then please contribute to the bolt fund via myself, Grant Farquhar or Davie Crawford and we will put the money towards the installation of reliable anchors. Please contact me if you wish to borrow the drill in order to equip or re-equip routes. More bolting resources; Jim ****'s Bolt products USHBA Fixe USA American Safe Climbing Association Safer Cliffs Australia

Hogfish Bay

drevil — Sun, 11 Oct 2009 17:19:52 CDT

Grant Farquhar on an ascent of one the most classic DWS in Bermuda, Night Dive. Photo Jonathan Charles.

Hogfish Bay lies to the west of Clarence Cove and the climbing area can be seen from the point west of the quay in Clarence Cove where the steps and caves are. From there you look across Hogfish Bay to the western point of it which is distinguished by an arch. Google Map.
Topo at the bottom of this page. Unless otherwise indicated, first ascents and photos by Grant Farquhar.

TROUBLE AND STRIFE 5.10b 12m 17th August 2006
Walk down to the platform on the seaward side of the arch in Hogfish Bay. Looking eastwards is an obvious overhanging pink streaked arête with green water below, the line of Night Dive. Step off the platform and traverse the lip of the east side of the arch leftwards to a knee-bar rest on the landward arête. Continue traversing leftwards at mid-height to the base of a ragged pockety crack. Finish up this. Beware the patch of reef underneath certain parts of the traverse. Definitely one for a high spring tide. Can also be started as for the following routes through the arch before moving up to the higher traverse at the exit of the arch in which case it is less tide dependent.

ARCH ENEMA 5.11d 13m 2nd June 2009
A crimpy extended finish to Trouble and Strife. Follow Trouble and Strife through Mick Fowler territory across the arch to the base of the crack. Continue leftwards on pockets past Mrs Pedersen to cross the pink wall and gain large holds and a shake out on Night Dive. The final section of Night Dive awaits.

The remainder of the routes start by traversing west to east (leftwards) through the arch on the landward side.

BONSAI PIPELINE 5.11a 13m 22nd August 2006
Traverses the entire wall from right to left taking the least line of resistance. Most of the following routes initially start along this before exiting at various points along the traverse. Traverse in from the landward side of the arch eastwards underneath and through the arch. Continue traversing along the shelf to a no-hands rest in a cave. Move left to a slot beneath the arête and a knee-bar rest. Climb up and leftwards on the lip of the overhang to a horizontal rail and shake-out. Step leftwards to a good rest at the Bonsai tree. The traverse now continues at this level before grovelling up onto a no-hands resting ledge. From here it is possible to follow the ledge system easily up and left to finish. Although this finish is loose and above a lower ledge system and is therefore not recommended. If you don’t fancy this finish then it is possible to jump off into deep water after the grovel onto the ledge system. The best finish however is to climb Pidgin Politics.

Claire MacLeod on the initial traverse of Bonsai Pipeline
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DEATH BY BONGO BONGO 5.11a 13m 9th May 2008

The low level traverse of the entire wall. Follow Bonsai Pipeline to the knee-bar rest of Night Dive. Climb down leftwards under the roof to look back out through the knee-bar slot from the inside. Crawl past the pigeons through a tunnel into the next cave. From the back of the cave climb the left (looking in) wall outwards until it is possible to turn the left arete/roof and gain the outside wall. Continue traversing left at this level until it is possible to climb directly up to the ledge below Pidgin Politics. Best above mid-tide because of the reef below the final section. On the first ascent there was a recently savaged headless pigeon in the cave of Night Dive and a Portugese Man O'War directly underneath the ledge of Pidgin Politics. Decapitated pigeon Jellyfish soloing, the latest "extreme" sport?
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CLARK KENT 5.10a 11m Paul Van Rensburg, 2003
Follow Bonsai Pipeline through the arch and step left around the arête before climbing the wall to the top. There is a patch of reef in the vicinity of the landing zone so it’s best to climb at high tide and avoid uncontrolled high dives.

MRS PEDERSEN 5.11a 13m 24th June 2006
This route climbs the wall to the right of Night Dive. Follow Bonsai Pipeline to the no-hands rest. Undercut the lip of the cave and make tricky moves into friable territory (crux). Continue past amazing pockets to the top out via a thank god tree branch.

2nd ascent Fabian Gysi, 2008.

The Pederson Cleaner Shrimp that lives in the anenome underneath the eponymous route

NIGHT DIVE 5.11c 13m February 2003
An absolute mega-classic, one of the original and best DWS in Bermuda. It takes the obvious overhanging pink streaked arête which has a spectacular finale. Traverse in from the landward side of the arch eastwards through the arch. Continue traversing along the shelf to a no-hands rest in a cave. Continue left to a slot beneath the arête and a knee-bar rest. Climb initially on the left side of the arête before moving on to the front. Have it! Safe at any state of the tide although you will touch down (softly) on the sandy bottom at low tide and it is probably best to avoid springs low tide. Just ask Julius Caesar.

The second ascent of Night Dive, 2003

ATLANTIC BIRDMAN 5.11d 13m 4th May 2008

A direct variation on Night Dive. Follow the parent route to the no-hands rest in the cave and continue to the knee-bar slot at the base of the arete. In the wall above the slot, on the right hand side of the arete is an obvious large circular pocket. Use the pocket to get established on the arete and continue up this to finish as for Night Dive.

BLUE MEN OF THE MINCH 5.11c 13m 9th July 2008

The right hand exit from the large circular pocket of Atlantic Birdman. Hit the pocket with your left hand before heading up rightwards to the thank god tree of Mrs Pederson.

GINGER STEPCHILD 5.11c 13m 5th July 2006
The lefthand finish to Night Dive. Good but nevertheless beaten by the parent route. Follow Night Dive to the slot beneath the arête. Climb initially as per Night Dive and then follow the shallow groove in the left side of the arête all the way to the top. It is possible to climb numerous variations between Night Dive and Ginger Stepchild. 2nd ascent 4th July, 2008

An attempt on Tortura Del Agua immediately prior to the first ascent. Photo Birgitte Aga.

TORTURA DEL AGUA 5.12a 13m 31st May 2008
Excellent and sustained. Follow Bonsai Pipeline to gain the shake out at the horizontal rail where Bonsai Pipeline goes left and Ginger Stepchild goes straight up. Climb diagonally leftwards to make a long reach for a horizontal slot in steep territory. Continue directly to sloping holds in the vicinity of a thin white streak and then the top.

Contemplating the top out on Narcosis
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NARCOSIS 5.11d 13m 3rd July 2006
The scooped headwall left of the arête of Night Dive. Has a tricky crux. There is reef lurking underneath but it’s fine at mid to high tide. Follow Bonsai Pipline to the bonsai tree. From a good rest at the tree blast straight up the ridiculously overhanging white streak to a sketchy top-out
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NITROGEN NARCOSIS 5.11d 13m 13th July 2009
The combination of Narcosis and Nitrogen (3/7/9), the direct start. Follow Death by Bongo Bongo along the traverse and through the tunnel into the cave beneath Narcosis. Work out along the right (looking in) wall of the cave to the right arete. Climb through the roof and continue to gain a no-hands rest at the bonsai tree. Finish up Narcosis to give you Nitrogen Narcosis which is a harder variation but still no more than 5.11d because of the no hands rest at the tree.
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VERDIGRIS 5.11d 13m 10th April, 2008

Fantastic and exciting climbing. It takes the hanging mini white streak left of the broad white streak of Narcosis. Follow Bonsai Pipeline to the eponymous tree and a good rest. From the left side of the tree find some solid deep pockets and use these to commence a game of Russian Roullette with the Dirty Harry crimps in the friable rock which with a bit of luck will enable you to gain better holds in the white streak. Climb the white streak to the top. You've got to ask yourself one question: "Do I feel lucky?" Well, do ya punk?
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Davie Crawford going for the top out on Pidgin Politics
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PIDGIN POLITICS 5.11b 13m 20th September 2006
Follow Bonsai Pipeline to the grovel onto the ledge, no-hands sit down rest amongst the pigeons. From the right hand end of the ledge head up and rightwards through some unbelievably friable territory. The previously interesting mantelshelf finish is now easier as some bonsai trees have grown within reaching distance of the top.

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Hogfish Bay topo

Tsunami Wall DWS

drevil — Sun, 11 Oct 2009 16:47:55 CDT

Tsunami Wall is better known for sports climbing but in the heat of summer there are some nice DWS routes that can make a change from the usual venues.

The first route lies well to the left of the main cave.

Around 20m East of Sunflowers is a short, clean cut arete which gives a DWS boulder problem;

SILK V1 Down climb a groove and traverse a wall leftwards to the arete (beware of fragile holds). Davie Crawford, 19th March 2009.

SUNFLOWERS 5.6 15m

A very nice deep water solo up the left arete of the wall left of the main cave. Walk through the window underneath the pillar of Kanagawa. Traverse leftwards on a horizontal rail (ledges underneath this bit) and continue to gain lovely orangey brown flowstone rock on the arete. Climb the arete past a detached ear feature to sharp rock and the top.
Grant Farquhar, 30th November 2008.

RUBEN 5.10b X 15m
This DWS is based on the stalactite between Sunflowers and the sports climb of The Mangina from Atlantis. Start as for Sunflowers to the large ledge before the arete. Gain the front of the stalactite from the left (serious above the ledge). Step right then continue on massive holds to the top. Along with the objective danger of hitting the ledge, there are also reefs underneath in places. Snorkelling first to inspect the reefs and climbing at high tide recommended. This route might be better equipped as a sports climb.
Grant Farquhar 11/10/9
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The remaining routes are all slightly serious deep water solos due to the reef shelf underneath that quickly drops into deep water. An uncontrolled fall might result in a reef strike. It is therefore important to climb in control and to jump out in the event of a fall. Snorkelling to inspect the landing zone and high tide are recommended.

The 4th (and final) 'shark fin' pillar in the section of the crag right of the cave provides the following 2 routes (one on each side of the pillar, meeting to a common finish). Both routes are also equipped as sports climbs. Please see the Tsunami Wall sports climbing page to see how they relate to the other equipped routes.

EL TERREMOTO 5.7 R 15m
The left hand side of the fin provides a couple of nippy moves. An easing at around half- way leads to a finish over a small roof. There is a narrow section of reef underneath this route that should be easy to clear. DWS by Davie Crawford 27/8/9.
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ALETA DEL TIBURON 5.8 R 15m
The better of the two 'shark fin' routes featuring some interesting wall climbing on tufas and small pockets near the start. This route takes the attractive right hand side of the fin and joins with El Terremoto at the half way mark for the same finish. This route has a sizable reef shelf under the crux moves and is consequently quite a serious undertaking. DWS by Davie Crawford 27/8/9.

THE SEVENTH PILLAR OF WISDOM 5.9 R 12m
This sound deep water solo climbs the fat stalactite towards the west end of the cliff. From the cave area head westwards at sea level behind the curtain of stalactites to enter the large dry cave. Continue westwards and ascend through a window to gain a ledge on the front face of the large fat stalactite. Climb the pillar through the roof and rock over with interest to gain the ledge system above. Watch out when climbing the final wall as you are above the ledge rather than the water. Grant Farquhar, 11th March, 2009

THE EIGHTH PILLAR OF FOOLISHNESS 5.7 R 12m
Another deep water solo but one for a high spring tide due to the shelf underneath. It escapes out of the window that gains the base of the pillar of the previous route. From the base of the seventh pillar step rightwards soon easing to finish directly past an obvious thread in the thin rock of the sharp arete above. Grant Farquhar, 11th March, 2009

RIDE THE TSUNAMI 5.10a R 25m sea level traverse
This hidden but excellent DWS traverse is safer at high tide. There is reef underneath in places. Start from the base of the seventh pillar. From the window step down to sea level. Head right following the line of least resistance below the horizontal roof around the right angled arete to a cave/corner. Hit the lip rightwards on undercuts and jugs to paler rock on the edge of the bay at the end of the crag. Top out here. Grant Farquhar 2nd April 2009

THE NINTH WAVE 5.10b R 12m
A very good DWS for a high tide. Ride the Tsunami to the right angled arete. Climb the left side of the arete to the roof and pull over this on organ pipe stalactites to gain deep caves and a rest. Surf back left before climbing to the top. Grant Farquhar 2nd April 2009

Topo of the DWS sector of Tsunami Wall by Grant Farquhar

The Great Sound

drevil — Sun, 11 Oct 2009 16:35:36 CDT

The Great Sound has several areas developed and access is by boat. Descent is by jumping.
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Long Island
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Long Island is in the Great Sound and you get a good view of the cliffs on the North side from the Hamilton to Dockyard ferry. The cliffs are small but reasonably good. Unfortunately most of the cliff has shallow water underneath. The two lines below have the deepest landings on the cliff.
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RAT TAIL 5.9 R 6m

Takes the white arete right of the prominent deep square cut cave. The water underneath is only 6 feet deep which means an "armchair" landing position needs to be used on entry to the water- otherwise you will hit the bottom.
Fabian Gysi, 13th October 2008
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Grant Farquhar on the 2nd ascent of Rat Tail (Fabian Gysi on top).

INEBRIATION ACROSS DE NATION 5.7 R 6m
The open groove left of the cave. As above, the water depth is no more than 6 feet on this one.
Davie Crawford, 13th October 2008

Somerset sea cliff
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This cliff is the obvious white wall on the east side of Somerset Island. Beware the fire coral encrusted reef shelf underneath the routes which extends out for 1 to 3 feet under parts of this cliff. At low tide falling and landing on this will definitely cause injury. It is safe to jump off as it is easy to clear the shelf.
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Fabian Gysi and Grant Farquhar on the first ascents of The Sound of Summer & Pontius Pirate.
Photo topo Davie Crawford.
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The routes are described left to right. Descent is by jumping off the top into deep water.

CLIMB OF THE CENTURY 5.10c 10m
Bermuda's 100th recorded route scales the white wall on the left hand side of the face. Grant Farquhar 4th June 2009.
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THE SOUND OF SUMMER 5.11a 10m

Climbs the left hand white streak on pockets, tricky at first but soon easing.
Fabian Gysi, 13th October 2008. 2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 4th June 2009.
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DEMENTED JESUS NUN 5.9 R 10m
Praise to Jesus! What line is it? Can't remember. Where does it go? Hallelujah! Forgotten. Might be the dark grey streak between the two white streaks, praise be to the lord, amen. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 4th June 2009

PONTIUS PIRATE 5.10d R 10m
Gain the right hand white streak from the right. Climb the immaculate pocketed white streak and left arete of the headwall above.
Grant Farquhar, 13th October 2008
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BIGGUS DICKUS 5.11b R 10m
The diwect finish to the above woute, Biggus Dickus wanks higher than any other in the gweat sound. Follow Pontius Piwate to where it steps left at the howizontal bweak. Climb the headwall diwectly above.
Gwant Farquhar 30th July 2009
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CRAIC HEADS 5.10b R 10m
This brilliant line climbs the right hand side of the immaculate white wall via the eye- catching crack at its top. Start just right of Pontius Pirate and climb the thin, technical wall (crux) to finish up the excellent layback crack above.
Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 4th June 2009.
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Grant Farquhar and Davie Crawford on the dynamic descent off the crag. Photo Julie Crawford
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ECHO BEACH
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This cliff lies just south of the above cliff and just north of Somerset Bridge. The main part of the cliff is not above water and has been top-roped by Josh and Adrian. Right of the main cliff is a DWS area of good rock. The landings are variable and snorkelling to inspect the depth is mandatory. There is also a nest of bees in the tufa area on the RHS of the cliff. c
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HAPPY CLAPPERS 5.9 5m
The overhanging arete/nose of rock towards the LHS of the DWS sector gives an excellent climb on big jugs above deep water. Grant Farquhar & Pitts Crick Massive 10/10/9l
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The first ascent of Happy Clappers. Photo Jonathan Charles.
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Daniel's Island

Daniel's Island lies off the Western tip of Daniel's Head on Somerset Island.
The crag on this small, tree covered island faces directly across to the partly exposed wreck of the Vixen- a Royal Navy gun boat scuttled in 1896 to block enemy torpedo boats using a narrow undersea channel to access Dockyard.
We have included this crag on the Great Sound page as it will most likely be accessed on boat trips starting from the Sound area.

Highland Fling crag

DASHING WHITE SERGEANT 5.8 (R) 7m Steven McGill 30th July 2009
Spy from the crows nest a faint groove line on the left of the crag, thar she blows. Follow it directly up. There's a good six foot more or less of water to cavort about in under this route so there's no need to keek your slacks too badly. Be prepared for lots of nasty wee brittle finger loping holds and you won't be disappointed. The top out is sloping and similarly festooned with melt in your hand not in your mouth holds. There is fish a plenty here so stunning your dinner on the leap back isnae impossible.
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STRIP THE WILLOW 5.9 (R) 7m Grant Farquhar 30th July 2009
Don't forget your sporran whilst birling up the central white streak leading to the tree above.
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GAY GORDONS 5.6 (R) 7m Steven McGill 30th July 2009
There is a bushy wee tree in the middle of the crag, well this route goes up a bit of a corner about ten feet to the right of it. Nothing interesting enough about it to cut a memory through my inebriated state. So its more or less suck it and see I'm afraid. It might have had jaggy bits but I couldnae swear to it.
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Highland Fling Crag topo

Agar's Island

Agar's Island is the small craggy island on the North side of Two Rock Passage in the Great Sound.
It has a distinctive overhung cove with variable quailty rock under a shallow, rocky landing.

The routes are described left to right.

AGAR THE HORRIBLE 5.7 (R) 6m Davie Crawford 17th July 2009
The left hand crack line offers razor blade sharp unpleasant climbing. The name says it all.

SKOL 5.9 (R) 6m Steven McGill 17th July 2009
Whilst completely drunk, pull out of the water on the right hand side of the cove and traverse leftwards up a wall to a white arete and follow it to the top. Vallhala awaits the conqueror!

Deep Bay

drevil — Wed, 30 Sep 2009 17:45:48 CDT

Deep Bay itself has a lot of rock but unfortunately the water under most of it is very shallow.There are two DWS venues here. The first area is Full Fathom Five Buttress which constitutes the steep white buttress of good rock at the western point of Deep Bay. The second venue is Low Pressure Wall which is found East of the steps into Deep Bay. Google Map.

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FULL FATHOM FIVE BUTTRESS
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Walk down from Admiralty Park above to gain the detached promontory adjacent to the white buttress. There is a prominent overhanging arete in the middle of the buttress. The water underneath is five fathoms deep.

FULL FATHOM FIVE TEN 5.10a 35m traverse

This excellent deep water solo provides the best introduction to DWS in Admiralty Park. It takes the easiest line traversing the white buttress. The water is deep and the rock is good. Climb down the groove in the east side of the promontory (stainless steel bolt at the top) to sea level. Traverse eastwards at sea level on amazing honeycombed rock to an impasse at a deep cave. Climb up and over the lip of the cave to gain a resting place at sea level on the other side. Climb up and leftwards to pass the overhanging arete at mid-height (crux). Continue leftwards along the shelf to gain easy ground and a path to the top. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford, 27th October, 2008
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Jonny Pearson leaving the Full Fathom Five Ten traverse to start up Deep Down In Dis Custard (photo Grant Farquhar)
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DEEP THROAT 5.9 8m
Follow Full Fathom Five Ten to the impasse before the deep cave. Step back right and climb the arete to the top.
Ward Byrum and Nick Strong, 2005
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DEEP DOWN IN DIS CUSTARD 5.10c 8m
Follow Full Fathom Five Ten to the impasse before the deep cave. Climb the steep white streak right of the cave and left of the arete to the jutting overhang and a spicy top out.
Grant Farquhar 23rd March, 2009
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Davie Crawford attempting Deep Down In Dis Custard (photo Grant Farquhar)

DEEP FRIED MARS BAR 5.7 8m
Follow Full Fathom Five Ten to the rest before the arete. Climb the white streak left of the cave past a prominent mars bar shaped pocket to the tree above.
Grant Farquhar 9th July, 2009
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DEEP IN DIS PEAR 5.10d 8m

Follow Full Fathom Five Ten to the rest before the arete. Traverse left to the base of the arete at sea level. Climb the tricky arete with continued interest to the little pinnacle on top. Grant Farquhar 27th October, 2008

BALLS DEEP 5.9 8m
Start from the water. Climb the wall left of the arete to the half-height ledge and junction with Full Fathom Five Ten. Continue directly to the top.

Nick Strong and Ward Byrum, 2005

LOW PRESSURE WALL

This crag is situated on the east side of Deep Bay and is best accessed from the steps leading down into Deep Bay from the bus stop on North Shore Road. From the base of the steps swim eastwards for approximately 200 yds to a dry ledge at the base of concrete steps. All the routes are accessed via the traverse of Hurricane Force or by swimming. The land above the crag is private, please do not top out through the bushes. Jump off into deep water.

HURRICANE FORCE 5.8 60m sea level traverse
From the concrete steps traverse eastwards at sea level at the base of the steep crag and above deep water to gain a dry ledge in the cave at the eastern extremity of the crag. Mostly above deep water but there is the odd ledge and reef to beware. Grant Farquhar 19/8/9

CYCLONE CRACK 5.8 15m
The short, overhanging hairline crack on the right- hand side of this crag features an unpleasant bushwhacking section at its top- before continuing leftwards to the tree. Davie Crawford 25/9/9

TROPICAL DEPRESSION 5.9 15m
Follow Hurricane Force for 30m until below the large tree. Climb directly to the tree. Jump off. Grant Farquhar 19/8/9

BEAUFART SCALE 5.10b 15m
This very good route climbs directly up the gently overhanging wall via a distinctive triangular, jutting jug. Best climbed in a force 8 to 12. Follow the Hurricane Force traverse 3m to the left of Tropical Storm to a wall below a left facing niche corner and the triangular jug. A gusty finish on the pine needle- covered finishing ledge is guaranteed (try not to follow through). Jump off by the tree or continue to the top if your winds are favourable.
Davie Crawford 19th August 2009.

THE EYE OF THE STORM 5.10d 15m
Climbs through the scoop in the middle of the crag. Start 3m left of Beaufart Scale, right of the ledge underneath the big roof right of Shark Oil gained via Hurricane Force or a swim to the ledge. Climb steeply on good rock to the scoop. Make a perplexing and crucial mantelshelf move into the depression to gain a precarious no-hands rest in the eye of the storm. Continue on friable rock directly above to a no-hands rest right of the large thread in the break above. Most climbers can feel satisfied with jumping off from here. Those in search of further titillation can continue through the roofs above via some unexpected stalactites to stand on the very top of the crag. Jump off.
Grant Farquhar 19/8/9

SHARK OIL 5.10c 15m
Forecasts an ascent up the left arete of the crag which lies between caves at mid-height on either side. Follow Hurricane Force to ledges before the big steep cliff. Continue to the cave right of the left arete with a ledge underneath and step left to the ledge in the cave left of the arete (the finish of Hurricane Force). Gain the arete from the left and continue steeply to a no-hands ledge left of an obvious large thread in the break. Most climbers can feel satisfied with jumping off from here. The masochists can continue through the roofs above to stand on the very top of the crag. Jump off. Grant Farquhar and Davie Crawford 19/8/9

Tuckers Town

weedavie — Tue, 15 Sep 2009 19:30:35 CDT

SCOTTISH OLYMPIC EXHIBITION SPORTS WALL

So far the only venue climbed on in Tuckers Town. Follow South Road east all the way to the end at the dock in Tuckers Town Bay. The wall is visible from the dock on the right and requires a 200 yard swim or boat ride. The rock is good but crumbly in places, the water underneath is deep (enough).
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THE EIGHTEEN PINTS OF HEAVY, FISH SUPPER AND A FIGHT TRIATHLON 5.10b 15m sea level traverse
The traverse of the wall. Start from ledges at the left hand side of the wall. Traverse drunkenly rightwards past some vegetation to turn the arete and gain the wall proper. Change out of your vomit soiled breeks to continue on overhanging pumpy ground (crux) to deep fried ledges beneath the white wall in the centre of the crag. Batter the opposition rightwards to ledges at the base of the gully bounding the right hand side of the wall.
Grant Fearchar 23rd July, 2009

THE HOLD MA KEBAB 'TILL AH GIE THIS KENT A DOING HURDLES 5.10a 5m
The overhanging flake line left of the bulge looks pish easy but isnae. Some technical legwork will see you victorious over this limestone cowboy of a route.
Steve McGill 3rd August 2009
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RAB C NESBITT MEMORIAL HEART ATTACK RELAY RACE 5.10c 5m
Start as for the above route. Follow the traverse to the hard bit below the overhanging water pocketed, pink elephanted, purple streak. Drink 12 pints of export and smoke 60 fags before staggering unsteadily up the purple streak to the cardiac arrest at the top. Jump off.
Grant Fearchar and the spirit of Rab C Nesbitt 23rd July, 2009

NEDS KRU SPRINT 5.7 (R) 5m
You lookin' at ma burd? The recessed white groove just right of the overhanging prow is pure manky wi' crumbly holds, man, but as long as ye've got yer Burberry cap on ye'll be safe as f*ck, know? Bridge up, top out, start on the next kent who's passing. Chase him doon intae Tucker's Toon. Young Team ya bass.
Mind the starting ledge, ya plamph.
Davie Crawford 3rd August 2009

SUPER LAGER MARLBORO MARATHON 5.8 (R) 5m
Tank yersel up fur the left hand o' the twin white ribs just right o' the chossy groove of Neds Kru, ya fud. It's no as good as the route tae it's right but climb it anyway.
Ah telt ye tae mind the starting ledge.
Davie Crawford 3rd August 2009

THE BUCKFAST BIATHLON 5.8 (R) 5m
The right hand of the twin white ribs provides a real tonic for the Scottish conoisseur of fine wines. Got the munchies? A deep fried mars bar and a pickled onion will provide adequate sustenance for the ascent. Ascend the pure minted pillar ae white rock tae top oot on some mad snappy keich, ya hoor.
If ye fall and brek yer legs oan that startin' ledge don't come runnin' tae me.
Davie Crawford 3rd August 2009

CASTLE ISLAND

Castle Island is the castle and battlement- topped island on the left as you leave Castle Harbour Cut heading out to the waters off South Shore.
There are two DWS areas with a total of 5 routes so far with the possibility of more routes.
Access is by boat, or swim of a few hundred metres from Castle Point in Tucker's Towm.

The first area climbed is a around a the lip of a deep cave near the Western tip of the island. The water is shallow under this crag (4 feet) and, despite a sandy landing, care should be taken to avoid uncontrolled falls.
The routes are described left to right.

THE POACHER 5.10c (R) 5m Steven McGill & Davie Crawford 3rd august 2009
Evade the ghillie by leaping out the water like a Polaris missile to gain the first very positive jug right of the center of the roof of the cave. There's another great big jug after that and then you're off up some typical sharp stuff to victory. Stuff some pheasants doon your breeches and leap into the shallow water to freedom.

TRAMMEL NET 5.10c (R) 5m Steven McGill 3rd august 2009
Same start as the Poacher- almighty water dyno to the jug, once you're up and settled head off left and follow the arc of the cave to the middle and up to top out. At this point exchange pheasants for salmon. Or sea trout if you like that better.

The Northern Side of the island offers 3 enjoyable, amenable routes centred on a pair of prows featuring good rock above deep water. Potential exists for a couple more lines. The routes are described left to right.

GUDDLE A GUPPY 5.7 7m Davie Crawford 3rd August 2009
The left hand side of the lefthand arete taken by Tickled Trout, climbed from a niche on the left.

TICKLED TROUT 5.8 7m Steven McGill 3rd August 2009
Go between the cave and a yonty crevice affair and seek a white streaky wall on the lefthand arete over some nice deep water. There you will find a steady supply of fingery holds straight up. Enjoy a safe leap back to the Atlantic.

PURLOIN MY PERCH 5.8 7m Davie Crawford & Steven McGill 3rd August 2009
A traversing line rightwards on the right hand arete from the starting crevice affair of Tickled Trout onto a nose of rock, with a tricky top out.

Dill's Rocks

drevil — Thu, 10 Sep 2009 16:30:15 CDT

A nice deep water soloing venue although the water is only just deep enough at mid to high tide. Not advisable below mid tide. The climbs are sheltered and face south. This bay is found on North Shore Road approx 1 km from the junction with Spanish Point Road and just east of Deep Bay where there is a bus stop. At the point you will find some steps. Keep an eye our for the resident squadron of calamares. Try not to land on them. First ascents and photos by Grant Farquhar.

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Calamares of Dill's Rocks

SQUID SQUAD 5.10c 2002
A brilliant anti-clockwise circuit, taking the line of least resistance. Start traversing leftwards off the ledge into the bay along the obvious high line past a couple of thin sections (see pictures) to some big flat jugs and a shake-out in a scoop. The water is getting shallower the further in you go and is chest deep at high tide below the shake-out. Drop leftwards down the jugs to obvious large flat holds at water level. Traverse hard back right just above the water to regain the ledge.

SQUID VICIOUS 5.10c 2002
Climbs Squid Squad in reverse i.e. clockwise. From the ledge drop down and traverse left at sea-level to the big flat jugs at the base of the scoop. Move up to the shake-out in the scoop. Finish via the high traverse back rightwards to the ledge. Has the disadvantage of being low when fresh and high when pumped.

The Van Rensburg brothers tackle Squid Squad

SUICIDE SQUID 5.11a 2002
An extension to Squid Squad which is only possible at mid-tide. There is not enough water to land in at low tide and the foot holds are underwater at high tide. From the lowest flat holds at the end of the leftwards traverse, continue leftwards at water level round an alcove to a flat jug on the arête, shake out here then traverse back right to finish along Squid Squad. The continuation of this traverse all the way leftwards to the beach remains unclimbed.

The initial high leftwards traverse of Squid Squad stays dry in the rain
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Bermuda Rock Climbing Topo Home

drevil — Thu, 10 Sep 2009 16:17:48 CDT

Wiki for the Bermuda rock climbing community.

Feel free to post first ascent descriptions or comments about the existing routes or any aspects of the climbing in Bermuda.

For I am all the subjects that you have, Which first was mine own king:
and here you sty me In this hard rock, whiles you do keep from me The rest o' the island.
Caliban, The Tempest.

The rock here is a soft aeolian limestone. The oldest and most solid rock is called "Walsingham stone" and this is mainly found near Harrington Sound. Most of the climbing is on seacliffs (you are never far from the sea in Bermuda) and consists of beach bouldering, deep water soloing or sports climbing. If you are interested in the latter then feel free to contribute to the BOLT FUND. There is also the outdoor climbing gym in Hamilton, The Olympic Club. Lengths of the deep water soloing routes usually refer to the max height above the water rather than the total length of climbing involved which is usually a lot longer e.g. Romantic Pottery has 35m of climbing but tops out 10m above sea level. This is not unusual for deep water soloing. All directions (left/right) are given for looking IN to the cliff from the sea. Some of the routes have had few repeats and a lot of the grades are uncomfirmed. For an overview of the 150 plus routes in Bermuda see the graded list. For grade translations consult the grade comparison table.

The climbing is good but not world class. One of the major advantages of Bermuda however is accessibility. With only 21 square miles of land you never have to travel far and you can easily be diving in the morning, wakeboarding in the afternoon, climbing in the evening and then get a surf in before sunset. It is possible to climb all year round with summer best for deep water soloing and winter best for sports climbing.

BOULDERING
John Smith's Bay
Mid-Ocean Club

Windsor Beach

St George's
Astwood Cove

DEEP WATER SOLOING
Dill's Rocks
Deep Bay
White Grunt Hole
Clarence Cove
Hogfish Bay
Harrington Sound
The Great Sound
Tom Moore's Jungle
Tuckers Town
Tsunami Wall

SPORTS CLIMBING
The Great Head

The Pump Room

Tsunami Wall
Abbot's Cliff
Gospel Wall
Mother Tuckers Wall
Dockyard

ROCK CLIMBING GYM
The Olympic Club

WARNING AND DISCLAIMER; Rock Climbing is inherently dangerous. Even when doing nothing wrong climbers are sometimes injured or killed. Climb at your own risk. Some or all of the information in this wiki may be inaccurate. The contributors to this wiki accept no liability for anything. Please read the information about Deep Water Soloing below and the information regarding the in-situ protection on the relevant pages.

Deep water soloing refers to a specific climbing style which involves free climbing above water with only rockshoes and chalkbag. It is solo climbing relying on the water for protection from injury and to enjoy the freedom and movement of solo climbing in safety.There are many seacliffs in Bermuda where the rock is good but the water underneath is too shallow for deep water soloing. Shallow water soloing is not much different from soloing above the ground i.e. if you fall off then you are seriously injured or die. Deep Water Soloing requires at least 3m and preferably more of water underneath the landing zone. in order to avoid injury. There is approx 1m of water difference between high tide and low tide in the Sargasso sea, more at spring tides which occur at full and new moons and less at neap tides. Deep Water Soloing is safer at high tide for obvious reasons and some of the routes are not advisable below mid-tide. It is imperative to inspect the depth before getting on a project as the water is often a lot shallower than it appears. A mask and snorkel are therefore useful accessories to as many rockboots and chalkbags as you can get your hands on. The good news about that is the snorkelling is fabulous in Bermuda and there is loads to see. Although what you don’t want to see are Portugese Men O’ War or Cauliflower jellyfish, make sure there aren’t any under your chosen line, especially if the wind is onshore because the wind tends to bring them in. Even then bear in mind that even under perfect conditions and circumstances Deep Water Soloing is a stupid and perilous sport. Potential injuries include broken backs, ruptured lungs, perforated eardrums and involuntary salt water enemas. Please don’t do it, you will probably get injured or die.
Tide Times

Weather
Links
Media

Nick Strong is the man from Atlantis

The Pump Room

drevil — Mon, 07 Sep 2009 15:55:41 CDT

Warning and disclaimer on the fixed protection. This is not a climbing gym, climb at your own risk.
The sports climbs in Bermuda have been equipped with stainless steel expansion bolts and in-situ threads. In general the protection points are placed in the spots where the rock is the most reliable. However the nature of the limestone here varies and some of the placements are unavoidably in the softer rock and so the protection will not be as strong as it would be when placed in harder rock. The reliability of the anchors is therefore not guaranteed. In addition all in-situ protection is liable to deteriorate over time. The expansion bolts are prone to stainless steel corrosion. The threads are prone to wear and tear. The lifespan of these type of anchor in this location will only be about 1 to 2 years max and so it is important to visually inspect the condition of the anchors when climbing. We are planning to re-equip all expansion bolts with titanium glue-in bolts. Threads will need to be replaced every so often. Unless otherwise indicated, assume the threads date from the first ascent of the route. When routes are re-equipped it will be recorded in the wiki. Likewise please note any observations of dubious in-situ protection.

The Pump Room is a cave found just to the south of The Great Head in St David's. From the car park at the gun battery, find the purple brick path which eventually leads to the monument for those lost at sea. From the metal gate, follow the purple path for approximately 20 yards at which point it starts to gently curve to the left. Duck into the bushes to the right to find a path (not obvious). If you are doing some serious bushwacking then you are off route. Follow the path down through the jungle which appears to have been made by Hobbits past a fallen tree. Eventually the path starts to go back uphill. Around this point take a 90 degree left branch and follow this steeply downhill to clear the jungle. At this point you should be able to see The Pump Room straight ahead. Follow the path down some steps and a short but easy downclimb to ledges at sea-level.This cliff has the best rock of any climbing area so far developed in Bermuda and there is potential for some very hard routes. Watch out for the bee's nest at the far right of the cliff. The routes are described right to left.

AHAB 5.11b 10m

Very steep pumpy 3 star climbing on massive jugs, this line starts left of the mouth of the (very deep) cave and follows the pale streak to finish directly above the cave. Campus and heel-hook past five threads to an in-situ lower off. 11b but feels like 12b if the humidity is high. Grant Farquhar & Fabian Gysi, 24th April 2008
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Ahab. Photo by Davie Crawford.
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PUMP LOVIN CRIMINALS 5.11a 10m $250 fine

Climbs the wall directly. Start just left of the mouth of the cave below 3 threads. Climb to the left of the first thread and continue past 2 more to an in-situ lower off. You don't have the full tick unless you get busted by the police for speeding on the way to the Swizzle. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford, 21st Feb 2009
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Davie Crawford on the first ascent of Pump Lovin Criminals
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QUEEQUEG 5.8 10m 13th April 2008

This trad protected climb takes the buttress left of the cave on very good white rock. Start from the ledge below the cave. Traverse leftwards off the ledge with instant exposure to climb the white streak past a massive thread (good luck threading it). This route really needs some in-situ protection and we are on the case. At the top you can access the belays of the adjoining routes.
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THE PROW OF THE PEQUOD 5.9 12m
All aboard me hearties! This excellent route starts left of Queequeg and tackles a whale of a roof and the wall above. The start is accessed by a short scramble down to a ledge above the sea. Strenuous moves over the large horizontal roof allow access to the wall and prow above. Trend slightly leftwards, with increasing exposure, to finish in a superb position near the edge of the prow. 5 in-situ threads. Belay on the 'cosy' poop deck above on two in- situ threads. Abseil descent required unless you are game for the bushwhack from hell- not recommended!
Davie Crawford & Caroline Stockdale, 28 Feb 2009
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Davie Crawford on the first ascent of The Prow of the Pequod
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PROW OF THE PEQUOD- RIGHT HAND START 5.6 10m. This easier, but still tremendous variation shares Queequeg's start. Take a deep breath, step left off the big ledge and follow the obvious right to left rising traverse onto the prow above. 5 in- situ threads. Continuous interest the whole way. Belay and abseil descent as above.
Davie Crawford, Charlotte Best & Caroline Stockdale, 28 Feb 2009.
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White Grunt Hole

drevil — Sat, 05 Sep 2009 14:56:17 CDT

White Grunt Hole describes the area of rock extending from the east side of Clarence Cove to Deep Bay. It is visible directly across from the dock in Clarence Cove.

Fabian Gysi venturing into Enema Territory. This is one for a high spring tide.

INTO THE LABYRINTH 5.10d 120m sea level traverse
This route comes with a guarantee - I guarantee that you will be pumped at the end of it! It actually starts in Clarence Cove but the majority of the action takes place in White Grunt Hole. It follows the labyrinthine sea level traverse from Clarence Cove all the way to join the start of Grunt's Traverse at the foot of the left arete in the photo above. The rock is variable in quality and previous experience of climbing on Bermuda rock is an advantage. The water depth also varies and it is safer at high tide. Start from the small beach on the east side of Clarence Cove. Start traversing the cramped overhanging eastern wall of Clarence Cove, initially above shallow water but soon getting deep. There is one short hard overhanging section above deep water. Continue around the arete of the mouth of the bay and follow the path of least resistance eastwards. Keep an eye out for the entrance to a narrow dry passageway that allows a crawl through (you can also traverse the outside of this buttress). There are now two deep caves to navigate. It is possible to climb around the inside of each cave, but the rock inside tends to be slimey in places. Alternatively swim across the mouth of each cave. With a bit of pre-planning this can be accomplished with a dry chalk bag. This leads to the base of the overhanging white streak in the left arete of the largest cave. Traverse pumpily left at sea level at the base of the steep wall to achieve a no-hands rest on the ledge on the arete and junction with Grunt's Traverse. Grant Farquhar 6th April, 2009. It would be possible to link this route with Grunt's Traverse and then Full Fathom Five Ten to give a 200 plus meter sea level traverse at 5.10 plus. A complete and completely dry ascent awaits. Magical Mystery Tour eat your heart out!

ENEMA TERRITORY 5.11c 19m
Recommended only for lovers of loose overhanging weetabix. The rock is unbelievably friable. The water underneath is shallow and you definitely want high tide. Gain the base of the arete as for Grunt's Traverse. From the ledge traverse right at sea level for 10 feet to underneath the severely bulging wall. Climb up the line of a thin vertical seam, stepping right and then up the line of another thin vertical seam to gain a bridging no-hands rest in a scoop. Continue directly up the overhanging wall for a few moves to gain a prominent horizontal break. Follow this leftwards until beneath the bonsai tree on the arete. Grab the tree and pull over onto the large ledge above. Follow the ledge up and rightwards to finish. Grant Farquhar 5th April, 2009.
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BUTT PLUG 5.11c 19m
A harder and slightly pointless direct finish to Enema Territory. Only worthwhile if you have done the parent route and want to repeat it whilst making life hard for yourself. Suffice to say this route carries not so much a sting in the tail as a pain in the ass. Start up through Enema Territory to the no-hands rest in the scoop and then the horizontal break above. Step left then continue directly to the top. High tide is recommended. Grant Farquhar 29/8/9.
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GRUNT'S TRAVERSE 5.10a 50m
An interesting expedition which is pretty safe at high spring tide and links up with Full Fathom Five Ten (in Deep Bay) to give a long DWS traverse. Start from sea level at the foot of the left arete of the steep wall opposite the dock in Clarence Cove. This is the left arete in the photo above and can be gained by climbing (carefully) down the top part of ZigZag Arete and then the groove to the east. Alternatively swim across from the dock in Clarence Cove. Traverse leftwards (east) just above sea level on reasonable rock. Mostly above deep water at high spring tide but with the odd clearly visible submerged reef shelf to beware. Eventually gains a very deep rectangular sea cave which is full of white grunts so I presume this is white grunt hole itself. It looks entirely possible to traverse around the inside of this cave in its entirety and this awaits a complete ascent. Alternatively make the short swim to gain the opposite wall as I did. Continue traversing leftwards on good rock to join Full Fathom Five Ten. Grunt Farquhar 23rd March, 2009.

ZIGZAG ARETE 5.7 (R) 19m
Tackles the left arete of the steep wall by the easiest line. Initially climb a layback crack for 5m on the East side of the arete (serious- above a large ledge), until a foot traverse leads rightwards round the arete to access a short wall with some fragile holds (now safer above deep water). A few small trees give good handholds to pass this section. Continue up the arete to the top.
Davie Crawford 21 June, 2009.
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Grunt's Traverse at White Grunt Hole (photo Grunt Farquhar)
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White Grunt Hole is also the home of the impressive white arete across the bay from the dock at Clarence Cove. This was attempted in 2007 by Ward Byrum, see photos below. This remains an unclimbed DWS challenge. Unfortunately the water underneath the landing zone is only waist deep at low tide and chest deep at high tide and the middle third has very poor rock with the consistency of cheese. This line is therefore a challenging and serious proposition, good luck!

Pics courtesy of Leila Wadson of Ward Byrum attempting to DWS the white grunt arete

Media

drevil — Wed, 02 Sep 2009 11:21:28 CDT

Bermuda page in the DWS bible Deep Water by Mike Robertson

BERMUDA SUN article 12/20/2006

Hanging from a sheer cliff by your fingertips: 'A great way to unwind'
With its flinty limestone rocks and a highest point of little over 200 feet, Bermuda has never been considered a paradise for climbers.

But amid the craggy outcrops and overhangs that pepper the North Shore cliff face, a group of 'outdoorsmen' are charting new territory for what is a burgeoning sport on the island.

Most rock climbing in Bermuda still takes place at the Olympic Club's artificial wall. But by introducing a generation of islanders to climbing, the club's instructors tapped into a latent spirit of adventure that has inevitably led them beyond the wall.

Now the more talented and experienced climbers are regularly scrambling up different routes at John Smith's Bay, Harrington Sound and Admiralty House - by far the best spot they have found so far.

"Climbing has always been about getting away from it, getting outside and away from people and just becoming immersed in the activity," says Bryan Caldwell, one of the club's instructors. "People find it a great way to relax because they are not thinking about anything else but climbing. If you're not thinking about it and moving with it, if your head's not in it, then you won't be successful."

Caldwell and his fellow instructor Ward Byrum have a history of finding places to climb in the most unlikely places. The pair went to university in Kansas where they resorted to scaling silos, apartment blocks and telegraph poles to get their climbing fix in the flattest state in the U.S.

And it was that 'anything goes' attitude that led them to seek out the brittle and unwelcoming cliffs of Bermuda's shoreline.

Now, deploying a method known as 'deep water soloing' - which essentially means climbing without ropes and using the water as a safety net - they are pioneering a new frontier.

Caldwell added: "Being real climbers, we naturally gravitated towards the cliffs. We realized the rock quality wasn't that good so we scouted out some different spots while we were out snorkelling or swimming."

But it was British psychiatrist and experienced rock climber Dr. Grant Farquhar, who first discovered the numerous climbing routes at Admirality House, during his independent forays from his home at Spanish Point.

Dr. Farquhar, who captured many of the stunning images on these pages, had the honour of naming the climbs - a privilege afforded to the first climber to chart a new route.

From Lara Croft - 'a feisty route with big jugs' to Atlantis, a lengthy traverse, there are myriad options which now attract a small group to the park every week.

Short as the climbs may be, with the cliff top a mere 30ft above sea level, they are difficult and often involve long traverses requiring a lot of energy and strength to scale.

"I did a couple of climbs today and a little bit of swimming around and I'm beat," admitted Byrum on Friday.

For the most part, it's just the experienced, qualified climbers like Byrum, Farquhar (who has since moved to New Zealand) and Caldwell who try out the different routes.

But some of the more talented climbers at the wall are also visiting cliffs, under the supervision of their more experienced friends.

Tristan DeSilva, 17, who started climbing when the wall first opened in Bermuda, said taking on the challenge of Admirality House was a "completely different experience".

He said they were much tougher climbs than he had ever encountered before. Byrum added that taking on Bermuda's rocks without supervision was not something he recommended.

"We're all experienced climbers.

"The important thing for us is to find a route where at any moment, if you fall, you fall into the water."

DeSilva added that falling had been a "little scary" at first, but he said it was "no big deal", because there was always a relatively deep pool of water below.

Byrum said the climbers occasionally draw spectators from the visitors that frequent the park.

"They think we are crazy just for being in the water at this time of year, never mind the climbing we do.

"One thing that all the Bermudians say to us is that they remember jumping and diving off these rocks when they were kids.

"Now we're taking it from a different angle and going back up them."

If you're interested in learning more about climbing or giving it a try call Ward or Bryan at the Olympic Club on 292-4095. To see more of Dr. Grant Farquhar's pictures and read more about local climbing, visit www.evilpics.co.uk

James Whittaker
Senior Reporter

Planet Fear article 2003 http://www.planetfear.com/articles/Bermuda_Rock_87.html

Bermuda Rock Article by Grant Farquhar

Is there rock climbing in Bermuda? You definitely would not travel to Bermuda because of the rock climbing but if you are an ex-pat climber working here then there is definitely enough to keep you occupied. I never met any Bermudian climbers and I don't think much, if anything had been climbed prior to my 5 month spell in the winter of 2002/2003. The climbs documented below are the results of that stay and were developed by myself and Paul Van Rensburg. There is no shortage of rock here the problem is that most of it is crap. However amongst the choss there is the odd gem to be found. The rock here is very sharp and friable coral limestone that tends to run to flat horizontal breaks. Most of the climbing is on seacliffs and is mostly bouldering or deep water soloing. There are many spots where the rock is good but the water underneath is too shallow for soloing. Due to the reef it is imperative to inspect the depth before getting on a project as the water is often a lot shallower than it appears. Owing to Bermuda still being a British colony I have used British grades throughout.

John Smith's Bay

John Smith was obviously a climber because the best bouldering to be had in Bermuda is to be found tucked away in the left hand corner of this tranquil spot.The obvious roof system sweeps above a sandy landing from two pillars on the right hand side. The rock is incredibly sharp so watch your skin.SAVE YOUR BREATH 5c
Start on the left hand pillar. Climb directly out to the lip via a large thread (see picture) then follow the lip leftwards to the top. Superb. Variation (5c). From the thread climb leftwards under the roof to finish as for the parent problem. Save Your Breath
ROCK FEVER 5c
Nice little problem. Sit down start in the very right hand corner. Climb out to the obvious juggy rail. Continue down in leftwards on pockets to a porthole.20 000 VOLTS
A sustained link up. Start as for Rock Fever to the rail. Follow the rail leftwards to a no-hands rest on the first pillar. Continue along the lip on jugs to join Save Your Breath and finish along this.

Squid Bay

Bermuda's premiere deep water soloing venue although the water is only just deep enough at mid to high tide. This bay is found on North Shore Road approx 1 km from the junction with Spanish Point Road and just east of Deep Bay where there is a bus stop. Park on the grass near the house called Blue Water. At the point you will find some steps. The bay is named after the resident squadron of calamares. Try not to land on them. Calamares of Squid Bay
SQUID SQUAD 6a
A brilliant circuit. Start traversing leftwards off the ledge into the zawn along the obvious high line past a couple of thin sections (see picture) to some big flat jugs. The water is getting shallower the further in you go. Drop down the jugs to a large plate-like flat hold at water level. Traverse hard back right above the water to regain the ledge. Check for Portugese Man O' War before you fall in.SUICIDE SQUID 6a
An extension to the above which is only possible at mid-tide. From the plate-like flat hold at the end of the leftwards traverse, continue leftwards at water level round an alcove to a flat jug on the arête. Shake here then traverse back to the plate and finish along Squid Squad. Paul Van Rensburg on Squid Squad

Clarence Cove

One of the most exciting deep water solo venues by virtue of the fact that it is one of the few cliffs to actually have deep enough water below it. So far there is only one route.NIGHT DIVE E4 5c 5m
West of the quay in Clarence Cove are some man made caves which end on a point from where many a fine night dive has been started. West again round the bay is a point with an arch. Walk down to the platform on the seaward side of the arch. Looking eastwards is an obvious overhanging streaked arête with green water below. Traverse in from the landward side of the arch eastwards through the arch. Continue traversing along the mossy shelf to a no-hands rest in a niche. Continue left to a slot beneath the arête. Climb the left side of the arête moving on to the front at two thirds height. Have it!

St David's Head

This is easily the biggest most impressive cliff with the best rock on the island. It is in a very spectacular location set off by the guns of the battery above. So far nothing has been climbed although a VS has been top-roped on the right hand vertical bit. There are some old staple bolts at the top of this. The cave in the centre is steep and there is plenty of scope for ground up bolting here.

Tobacco Bay

One trivial problem exists out of the small cave behind the bay to a jug in an impending wall.

Harrington Sound

drevil — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 19:30:39 CDT

Harrington Sound is encircled by cliffs, and some great climbing is found in this area.

GAIJIN WALL

This area of very good white rock is in the North- West part of Harrington Sound, just East of the landmark of Abbot's Cliff.
Access- by boat, or a swim around 400m metres from the Trinity Church Road area to a rock island which faces a deep crack line up slabby rock.

VAYU 5.10c 8m Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 19th April 2009
This route tackles the attractive arete feature facing the rock island.
Swim from the rock island to the base of the snaking crack. Traverse leftwards from the crack to an overhung niche. Make a couple of steep moves out of the niche onto the arete and wall above. Cracking jugs lead to a fingery, technical finish up the immaculate headwall. Sticking strictly to the arete makes this route a little harder than the headwall version. Jump off or walk along the top rightwards to downclimb the snaking crack.
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NIU BI 5.10c 8m
A counter-diagonal to Vayu. Gain the wall left of the arete from the water. Climb up then right to join Vayu at good holds and a resting place. Continue rightwards on the lip of the overhang and finish up the right hand side of the arete. Grant Farquhar 23/8/9
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FUJIN 5.10b 8m Davie Crawford 19th April 2009
Follow Vayu onto the arete and traverse the Kamikaze Wall at around mid height taking the line of least resistance. Gain a sloping ledge and top out or jump off.
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NI SU YAO FANG PI 5.10c 8m
This route climbs directly out of the water at some obvious thin flakey holds in the left side of the wall left of the obvious arete of Vayu. Continue directly to join Fujin and then the top.
Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 23/8/9

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The next routes are right of the snaking crack.

AIKIJITSU 5.10c 8m Steve McGill 31st July 2009
Get yourself fired on to a bulge right in front of the island, about 8m left and around a corner from Yakuza arete. Make a wee note to try and jump clear of this bulging slab in the event of falling off. Set off confidently more or less straight up, tearing off loose shrapnel and exposing angry ants as you go. As the holds become rubbish near the top have a wee gander again at yon slab waiting to catch you. Finally, fight your way through some dead twiggery to top out.
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GWEILO 5.10c R 7m
The white groove left of the prow of Yakuza. Gain the ledge underneath from the water. Climb the groove to the mid-height ledge. Devilish bridging leads to the top. Jump off. Beware the evil ledges underneath as poor footwork could lead to an uncontrolled fall with risk of striking a ledge. Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 23/8/9
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YAKUZA 5.10c 7m Davie Crawford 31st July 2009
Join the brotherhood with an intense initiation ceremony- a finger slicing ascent of this brilliant samurai- sharp prow 10m right of the crackline. Start left, traverse onto the arete sinking copious Sake before extorting success from the summit jug.
(2nd ascent Grant Farquhar 23rd August 2009)

KITSUNE 5.10b 7m Davie Crawford 23rd August 2009
The white- streaked, slightly overhanging wall just right of Yakuza gives good some worthwhile (and intricate) climbing.

MONKEY ISLAND (aka HALL'S ISLAND)

Access- by boat, or swim c.200m across the Northern part of the Harrington Sound. Continue round the Northern side of the island to a cove with a little rock island and a large roof.
Monkey Island is the eye-catching, craggy island in the Northern part of the Harrington Sound. A line of crags curve round from the North to the Northwest side.
Unfortunately, the rock is not as good as it looks.

Davie Crawford on the FA of Tripitaka's Travels. Photo Grant Farquhar.

TRIPITAKA'S TRAVELS 5.9 50m Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 14th March 2009
This route starts from the little rock island in the cove on the north side of the island (a convenient spot to access all the Monkey Island routes listed here). Step off the rock onto the obvious foot rail of good white limestone and follow this from right to left. The crux involves negotiating a constricted roof at sea level and is much harder than the rest of the route. The footholds are good on this one but the handholds tend to be very fragile.

MONKEY MAGIC 5.10d 10m Davie Crawford & Grant Farquhar 14th March 2009
This tremendous route traverses the slabby white wall underneath the large, chossy roof in the buttress from left to right. A 5m swim from the rock island leads to the start at the left edge of the white wall. Balancy, technical moves on very small holds lead to enlightenment at the arete taken by Monkey Love. Finish up Monkey Love or jump off.

MONKEY LOVE 5.8 10m Grant Farquhar 14th March 2009
Takes the arete right of the large roof in the prominent north facing buttress. The rock is poor.

Davie Crawford on the FA of Monkey Magic. Photo Grant Farquhar.

NIGHT RIDER 2

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This wall is to be found in the north-eastern part of Harrington Sound. It is just off vertical with excellent rock. Unfortunately the water underneath is too shallow for DWS. Beware.
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HARRINGTON SOUND POST OFFICE

For both these DWS spots park beside the Harrington Sound Post Office and follow a path behind the building down to the shoreline.

EASTERN WALL

Harrington Sound Post Office Wall (East).

JOURNEY TO THE WEST 5.10c 20m (sea level traverse) Grant Farquhar 14th March 2009
This little gem traverses the wall to the point east of the post office. From the waterline below the post office walk eastwards on top of the cliff past the overhanging point until it is possible to climb down to sea level. Traverse west on amazing flowstone rock to an impasse before the point. Find a hidden but crucial 2 finger pocket at waist level in the stalagtite on the arete in order to turn the arete and gain easier ground. Finish directly on good rock to the trees above. 2nd ascent Davie Crawford July 2009.

Davie Crawford finding the crucial pocket on Journey to the West. Photo Grant Farquhar.

Davie Crawford being denied access to the west. Photo Grant Farquhar.

POST OFFICE WEST

A short crag offering a few undistinguished routes.
Do not go into the garden of the house above. Jump off to descend.
The routes are described from left to right, facing into the crag. Swim to start all these routes.
The first feature described is a short vertical wall of red & white coloured limestone.

PIGSY 5.7 5m Davie Crawford March 2009
A boulder problem start getting out the water leads to the much easier red and white wall above.

NIPPON 5.10b 5m Davie Crawford March 2009
Start at the same point as Pigsy and follow a rightwards slanting line on pockets.

JUDO 5.10c 5m Davie Crawford 17th June 2009
The hollow, blocky grey roof right of Nippon provides some steep roof- wrestling moves on jugs to a crimpy finish up a short white groove.

Rightwards from the wall climbed by Pigsy are two more caves with sizeable, (but chossy looking) horizontal grey roofs. Right of these caves is a clean red and white wall. The next two routes climb lines on this vertical wall.

DRAGON KING 5.9 5m Davie Crawford March 2009
This fingery route follows a rising leftward traverse above the arch of the last cave to near its apex.

SANDY 5.7 5m Davie Crawford March 2009
This is the line of the thin crack that starts at the same point as Dragon King. The crux is getting out of the water.

TWIN MOORINGS CRAG

A short, slightly overhanging pocketed wall offering some bouldery routes on the way to Kamikaze Wall.
At the end of the Post Office West crag go past a small rock island to another one 20m further on with a white boat mooring on it. There is an identical mooring on shore just left of the crag. The water is deep enough at all tides.

BUSHIDO 5.9 5m Davie Crawford 20th May 2009
The blunt arete on the left gives some fingery climbing on honey-combed rock.

KARATE KID 5.10c 5m Davie Crawford 24th July 2009
The central line up the overhanging wall is fingery, leading to a slopey top out.

KATANA 5.7 5m Davie Crawford 20th May 2009
The knife edged arete at the right end of the wall.

KAMIKAZE WALL

Kamikaze Wall is the next venue in the Harrington Sound.
This excellent crag is situated in the Eastern Harrington Sound between Devil's Hole and Harrington Sound Post Office, in a secluded bay 50 West from Twin Moorings Crag.

It is without doubt the best crag developed so far in the Sound, and one of the best DWS crags in Bermuda.
Striking features of the area include the hanging wall and arete of Banzai, and the impressive 15 degree overhanging main white wall with an obvious, attractive finger crack on its right.
The crag is one of the highest DWS crags developed so far at 13m, and the length combined with the excellent limestone make for some of the most exciting routes of this style on the island.

The majority of the routes are safe above deep water. However, a submerged rock is close enough to the route Go Rin No Sho to require a warning (as mentioned in the route description).
Climb at your own risk. The authors of this wiki accept no responsibility for anything.

Access- a 200m swim from the Post Office or by boat.

SHOTOKAN 5.10a 25m
This good, pumpy route follows the natural line of a steeply overhanging, juggy handrail from the dock to the arete of Banzai. Make a step rightwards from the dock across a small gap onto a foot ledge leading onto the route. Grab the jugs and monkey for glory a few metres above the water to a welcome resting ledge.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009 (2nd ascent Josh Hill 18th June 2009)

SHOJO 5.8 7m
Climb the line of the blunt arete to a large whispering pine mid way along the route Shinto. Jump off.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009

BANZAI 5.9 13m
One of the very best easier DWS routes in Bermuda, this route offers superb, intricate pocket- picking up the vertical wall and hanging arete on the left side of Kamikaze Wall. Step off the a ledge and ascend diagonally rightwards up the wall via a million shallow pockets to white rock high on the arete. Top out and make a banzai jump into deep water.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009 (2nd ascent Josh Hill 18th June 2009)

KENDO 5.10d 13m
This very good route shares the same steep start with Go Rin No Sho and offers sustained, fingery pocket climbing up the bow- shaped groove line just left of centre on the main overhanging wall. Hard crux moves exiting the cave lead to the overhanging steep groove and wall above. Step left at a small bush and enter the upper groove system where balance is regained. Jump off into deep water.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009
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MISHIMA 5.11b 13m
Slightly eliminate but very worthwhile because of the excellent rock and climbing. Start as for Go Rin No Sho rightwards to gain the base of the overhanging wall right of the groove of Kendo. Climb the steep pocketed grey and white streaked wall directly to a tufa/flowstone feature left of the bonsai of Go Rin No Sho. Continue to a small cave with stalactites and then a horizontal break. Step right into the groove left of the final arete of Go Rin No Sho to finish. Grant Farquhar & Yukio Mishima 24/8/9
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GO RIN NO SHO 5.11b R 13m
3 star climbing up the centre of the white streak. Start from a dry no-hands rest on a ledge in the cave below the streak. Strenuous and perplexing moves lead out and rightwards onto the overhanging wall. Climb on pockets to gain a bonsai tree within a groove. Continue to the overhang and commit to the finish on the small arete above. Jump off the top to descend. Deep water apart from the large fire coral encrusted boulder that almost reaches the surface 6m back from the base. As this wall is 15 degrees overhanging it is not safe to make an uncontrolled fall from the top. Grant Farquhar & Miyamoto Musashi 23rd May, 2009

KAMIKAZE SEX NINJA 5.10d R 13m
The crack splitting the right hand side of the white streak. Start from a dry no-hands rest on a ledge to the right of the crack. Climb initially just right of the crack then the crack itself on good hand jams to the top. Walk leftwards (looking in) to the top of Go Rin No Sho and jump off into deep water. Deep water apart from the large fire coral encrusted boulder that almost reaches the surface 6m back from the base. As this wall is 15 degrees overhanging it is not safe to make an uncontrolled fall from the top.Grant Farquhar 23rd May, 2009

MUJINA 5.8 X 13m
The right hand groove/ crack line in the main crag is started from the same point as Kamikaze Sex Ninja. Falling is not advisable on this one due to its slabby nature. Jump off as per Go Rin No Sho.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009

KAMEOSA 5.7 9m
A wide and deep crack separates the little buttress taken by this route from the main crag. Start just right of the deep crack and make crux moves out the water onto the relatively easy wall above. Jump off into deep water.
Davie Crawford 23rd May, 2009
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Kamikaze Wall topo

CERTAIN DEATH CRAG

Certain Death crag is found just South West of My Lord's Bay in the Western side of Harrington Sound. Just one route has been climbed here so far- for obvious reasons. The (X) rating indicates a very serious (and possibly life threatening) danger element to the climbing.

CERTAIN DEATH 5.10b (X) 8m Steve McGill 31st July 2009
Let the allure of this great looking, touch- me- big- boy, overhanging lay back hand crack out- weigh the fact that the water is 4 foot deep and rocky below. Just follow that sweet crevice straight up, laying back this way and that alternately. Half way up stop and make a note to belly flop in the event of a ping- that would maybe save you. On you go, carry on up, no stop, whats that noise? It's the frenzied barking of not one but two Alsation attack dogs. The dogs are a good 30m away and can't see you- yet. Your friends can distract them from just off shore. Make for the top and beat your chest several times. Fight your way rightwards through thick jaggy bushes and sloping pine needle footing until you reach a low enough point to jump in without hitting too hard. Finally, taunt the dogs from the safety of the boat and and also any friends that are just too gay to do Certain death!

COCKROACH ISLAND

Cockroach Island describes a collection of rock island boulders lying below the imposing Abbott's Cliff. The boulders used to be part of the main face of Abbott's Cliff, before detaching themselves in the mists of time for some of the best rock trundles ever seen in Bermuda.
The climbing here is on the triangular South face of the main block which rises 8m out of the Sound like a Mayan pyramid.

It offers some pleasant and occasionally plain dangerous off- vertical problems on small positive finger edges.
This great little crag is part of a nature reserve so it is essential not to damage any rock or plant life.
The (R) rating indicates that these routes have shallow water under them, with serious injury a possibility in the event of an uncontrolled fall.

HUEVOS GRANDES 5.7 (R) 6m Steve McGill 31st July 2009
Juke out the water centre of the boulder and head left for two pure gallus, nanbos shaped holes. Gingerly put your entire hand in the hole like Flash Gordon fronting off Eagle Man with that alien- filled moon rock thing. Enjoy the use of the long thin ledges and a juggy top out. Bob's your uncle. Avoid roaming conches as you return to the sea.

TRES GRINGOS LOCOS 5.7 (R) 7m Davie Crawford 31st July 2009
Overcrowd your tiny, dangerously under- equipped, thirty dollar, two man inflatable and navigate with your essential cargo of beer and fags for a stealth mission over miles of open, deep sea to the distant pyramid of Chichen Itza. Pulling out of the water taking a deep drag on a Marlboro, follow a zig- zagging natural line up the centre of the face balancing a Corona Extra in your free hand. Pay homage to the god Quatzequatl as you arrive in a drunken state part- way up the summit arete.

ABAHO LOS PANTALONES 5.10a (R) 8m Steven McGill 31st July 2009
Feel obliged to claim the highest peak unless, of course, you're a big Jessie. Seek out the golden nub of a five inch wide tree stump on the right hand side of the towering face. Sacrifice your chicken here. Wait for Quatzeqautl's sign to continue. Set off over a bevvy of insecure holds and hand gashers aloft the rock strewn shallow waters. Top out and receive a beam of light from the parting skies. Or, alternatively, smack the sea bed whilst gripping onto the hold which broke off to spite you. (This route is very serious).

TRUNK ISLAND

Trunk Island is the large central island in the Harrington Sound.
It offers a Southern line of very small and undistinguished crags for those interested.
Access by boat.

ELEPHANT DUNG 5.7 4m Steven McGill 31st July 2009
You're here now, you might as well fire up the wee over hang/ arete to the left of an of eye catching sort of streaky thing. Climb up using your hands and feet, biff boff done. Now head off elsewhere or risk being a plamph.

LOOK AT THE SIZE OF MY TRUNK (ISLAND) 5.7 Davie Crawford 31st July 2009
On the right edge of this craglet is a nice little cove with very shallow water under it. The steep left arete is very hard (and unclimbed) but this route climbs an easier version up the line of the wall and arete, next to a small tree.

Unfortunately, the cliffs on the north side of Trunk Island (below) look promising from a distance but have poor rock and shallow landings.
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Links

drevil — Thu, 06 Aug 2009 17:23:04 CDT

Climbing Websites
UK Climbing
Scottish Climbs
Planet Fear
Rock Climbing.com
Supertopo
8a.nu

Wiki Guides
Gogarth
Slate wiki
North Wales Limestone
Tremadog
Welsh Winter Climbs

Guidebooks
Ground Up
Rockfax

Climbing Magazines
Alpinist
Climbing

Blogs
Dave Macleod
Nick Bullock
Misty Murphy
Team Mackenzie

Climbing info
Arbroath Sports Climbing
Javu south west UK Climbing
Cuba Climbing
Climbing Bulgaria

Other stuff
Ray Jardine
Climbing Quotes
Climbing Knots
Sickipedia

Grade Comparison Table

drevil — Mon, 03 Aug 2009 11:09:08 CDT

For additional information on the safety of DWS routes we have adapted the American (Yosemite Decimal System) rating on protection as follows;

No suffix – deep enough water, no obstacles. Refer to route description for recommended tide state. Some routes not safe at low tide.
R – shallow water and/or underwater obstacles. Usually safe to make a controlled jump and entry but not safe to fall uncontrolled.
X – not safe to fall. Injury guaranteed.

For further information on grades consult this page.

Mid-Ocean Club Bouldering

drevil — Thu, 14 May 2009 08:28:18 CDT

There are many bouldering opportunities down the beach from Mid-Ocean beach club in Tucker’s Town.
The rock is excellent quality here and the area is a strong contender for having the best bouldering in Bermuda.
Unfortunately, the beach is private. Please be discreet. Head for what’s left of the arches and then walk west down to the end of the beach.
The problems are described from right to left.

Grant Farquhar on the first ascent of Sex Scandal V3/ V5

SEX SCANDAL V3/5
The overhanging arête facing back up the beach. Start on the right hand side of the arete below some obvious monos. Use crimps and smears to latch better holds on the arête. Climb this to jugs. The grade depends on the level of the sand. When the sand is very low an ankle snapping iceberg boulder emerges so watch out for it in case it is only just covered. Grant Farquhar, 7th October 2006. 2nd ascent Davie Crawford, 7th Feb 2009.

Davie Crawford attempting Sex Scandal

AD HOMINEM V1

The scoop on the left side of the arete. Low sand levels make this route excellent, quite highball and spicy! Well worthwhile, on superb rock. A classic at its grade!

Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 7th Feb, 2009
time lapse video here

Davie Crawford on Sex Scandal. Photos Grant Farquhar
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SANDPIPER V1

The first of a trilogy of slightly sandy crack lines left of Ad Hominem. All three are much better at low sand level.
Davie Crawford 20th Feb, 2009.

PIEDPIPER V1
The adjacent crack line left of Sandpiper. Sandpiper and Piedpiper are interchangeable and finish at the same point. Davie Crawford 20th Feb, 2009.

BAGPIPER V1
The next one left. The shortest of the three and probably the best. Davie Crawford 20th Feb, 2009.
time lapse video here of FA

Trespasser's Cove
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Charlotte Best on Straight Up The Cracks at Trespasser's Cove (photo Davie Crawford)

This secluded area of excellent quality rock lies just around the corner from the Sex Scandal area. It is accessible at low and mid tide (at high tide some wading is required).
The East side of the cove offers a 7m high overhanging wall of excellent quality limestone.
This venue was originally discovered by Bryan Caldwell and Ward Byrum, who ran the Olympic Club Climbing Gym.

Johnny Pearson on the steep start to Trespasser's Traverse (V3) Photo Davie Crawford

ALL PROPERTY IS THEFT Highball V3 7m
The right hand problem on the amazing orange wall. Start left of the right arete below a large crozzly pocket. Climb steeply to gain the pocket. Flowstone pinches and a diagonal break lead to the finishing jugs. Scramble down and right to descend. Grant Farquhar 29th April, 2009
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POWER TO THE PEOPLE Highball V4 7m
The central line provides good sustained powerful climbing. Start up the leftwards slanting diagonal crack for a few moves then pull out right to climb the central hanging arete to a sloping finish. Scramble down and right to descend. Beware the large boulder underneath. Grant Farquhar 13th May, 2009
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TRESPASSER'S TRAVERSE (V3) 12m Davie Crawford 6 April 2009
This excellent boulder problem follows a natural, ascending (right to left) slash line across the lower part of the Trespasser's Cove wall. Start right of centre and set off left from the obvious crack line. A handful of strenuous moves along a rail of jugs lead to a niche. Leave the niche and follow the shelf of sloping hand holds above to a definite crux at the highest point of the traverse. Don't relax yet- there's more to come! Continue via cruel, fingery holds to the finishing ledge of the Straight Up the Cracks routes. Downclimb.
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Davie Crawford at the crux of Trespasser's Traverse (photo Julie Crawford)

SANDMAN VS SPIDERMAN V4 15m
The venue for this battle is the low level traverse of the entire wall. The outcome is down to you. You will either be dangling like spidey or resembling sandman. Start on a no-hands resting ledge on the right arete where you can clean your shoes. Step down and left and follow the traverse line into the starting holds of Trespasser's Traverse. Continue leftwards below this to a rest in a cave. The next section is the crux and gives absorbing climbing on edges and pockets with some crucial heelhooks. When you get to the cracks, finish up the right hand one. Grant Farquhar 29th April, 2009
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Davie Crawford nearing success on the FA of Trespasser's Traverse (photo Julie Crawford)
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STRAIGHT UP THE CRACKS V1 4m
Twin overhanging cracks are found to the left hand side of Trespasser's Cove. Both offer similar styles of crack climbing (unusual for Bermuda) and yield to some laybacking. Continue to a ledge above, then downclimb or jump onto deep sand. These are better at low sand level
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Charlotte Best on Straight Up The Cracks (photo Davie Crawford)

Tom Moores Jungle

weedavie — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 18:43:12 CDT

Bryan Caldwell on Tom Moore's Traverse (photo- Caroline Stockdale).

The Walsingham Nature Reserve (also known as Tom Moore's Jungle) is in Hamilton Parish on the North Eastern edge of the Harrington Sound.
Access- follow the road round the Sound before turning off at a signpost for Tom Moore's Tavern. Park at the Tavern.
The Jungle is an amazing place and packs a lot of interest into its relatively small area.
Wind your way round small tree- enclosed dirt paths, passing mangroves, sea water filled caverns, deep dry caves and weird limestone formations. The Jungle gives an impression of what Bermuda must have been like to the first settlers (before it became the most densely populated country on the planet).
The main interest for the climber is centred on the Walsingham Pond near to the Tavern. The West End of the Pond features a pair of buttresses of immaculate Aeolian limestone around 7m high.
Tom Moore himself is famed for his poetry and is considered to be Ireland's National Bard. Unfortunately as he did not wax lyrical on the quality of the Deep Water Solo'ing at this venue, he will never be remembered as a climber.

Tom Moore's Traverse Buttress

Davie Crawford on Tom Moore's Traverse (Photo Grant Farquhar)

TOM MOORE'S TRAVERSE 5.7 20m (FA unknown)
This Deep Water Solo follows a left to right line traversing a barrel- fronted buttress of immaculate white limestone. It provides the best introduction to Deep water Solo'ing in Bermuda and is absolutely superb. Follow the path from Tom Moore's Tavern into the Nature Reserve, walk anti- clockwise close to the shoreline until the path brings you to the start of the traverse. A line of perfect pockets draws the climber round the buttress until a slanting, ascending line in the prow provides a fitting finish for this amazing route.

TOM MOORE'S ARETE 5.9
Follow the traverse to the base of the overhanging arete and climb this to top out. Steep and very good.
Grant Farquhar & Davie Crawford 22/3/9. Probably climbed before.

Chris Burville approaching the overhanging arete on Tom Moore's Traverse (photo- Caroline Stockdale)

Tarzan's Wall

From right to left- Tarzan, Kerchak, Lord of the Treefrogs, Kala, Mangani.

This is the attractive crag directly across the lagoon from Tom Moore's Traverse Buttress.
Bushwhack like you love it on a faint path leading off the main path. Stick fairly close to the shoreline (machete optional). A short rocky slope leads down to the waterline at the end of the crag and this is the start point.
The traverse line left from here forms the route Tarzan. All routes start via Tarzan.
Superb, solid, clean limestone characterises this compact, but excellent crag.
There is a submerged ledge lurking below the initial easy part of the traverse but the rest is safe above very deep water.
Lines are described from Right to Left.

TARZAN 5.7 30m Davie Crawford 22/3/9
Start on the far right hand side at the ramp and traverse the lower part of the wall.

KERCHAK 5.9 7m Davie Crawford 22/3/9
This excellent DWS route, with its large freehanging stalactite, is without doubt the classic line of this buttress.
Follow the Tarzan traverse as far as the stalactite. Ignoring the chafing of your loin cloth, accept the challenge of the hanging fang. Climb it to a steep interesting finale. Top out with your best Tarzan war cry!
Jump off into deep water or downclimb (same applies to all routes below).

Grant Farquhar on the 2nd ascent of Kerchak (photo Davie Crawford).

LORD OF THE TREEFROGS 6m Grant Farquhar 22/3/9
Check for bees and then swing both ways up the red streak. Me Tarzan, You Treefrog.

KALA 5.7 6m Charlotte Best 22/3/9
This deceptively steep line gives very interesting climbing up the recessed groove on Tarzan's Wall.

Charlotte Best topping out on the First Ascent of Kala (Grant Farquhar below Mangani) (photo Davie Crawford)

Charlotte Best considering her options at the top of Kala! (photo Davie Crawford)

Charlotte Best taking the 'dynamic descent' option from Kala. (Photo Davie Crawford)

MANGANI 5.9 6m Davie Crawford (22nd March 2009)
Near the left end of the traverse is a wall with a very small stalactite hanging from it. Start below this and climb a steep and direct line to the top. Excellent.